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View Full Version : Was Considering a New Jointer. Talked Out of it.



Dave Richards
10-11-2006, 9:22 AM
So, I'm thinking about getting a new jointer and I'd like some opinions. I'm thinking Grizzly G1182ZHW 6" machine. And then I see their Dispoz-A-Blade thingummy. $169 and $17.95 for an extra set of blades. But then there is the Sunhill Spiral knife head upgrade for $149 and $16.95 for replacement knives. Both look intriguing for the speed of knife changes. The Sunhill is also interesting for the spiral knives. Grizzly's blades are double edged where as the Sunhill blades aren't so the cost per edge is lower on the Grizzly.

Does anyone have any experience either way?

Of course there are the carbide insert heads but that might be out of my price range.

Art Mulder
10-11-2006, 10:28 AM
What kind do you have now, Dave? Your post sounds like an upgrade, but most people don't upgrade to a 6" jointer.

I'm quite happy with my Delta 6" x5 jointer. I like having the power switch up on the stock, and the fence is pretty decent also. But it does cost a bit more than the grizzly. I got it last year when Delta was having their x5 rebate/promotion, so it was a lot cheaper for me then.

Looks like amazon.com has the Jet 6" jointer for 399, which is a bit cheaper than the Grizzly you're considering. It gets pretty good reports also.

As for the head ... I've seen the helical heads, and the finish they give is just amazing. But do you really need that? I can't say. Certainly pushes up the price a lot!

best,
...art

Dave Richards
10-11-2006, 10:38 AM
I've got a Ridgid but I want a little longer table. I also discovered that the infeed table for the Ridgid has a crown to it so I'm investigating have the table flattened, too. I figured I'd look at replacement to see what makes more sense.

As much as I'd like to, I don't think I can swing an 8" jointer. Not enough space and no 220 for the 2HP motor

Jamie Buxton
10-11-2006, 10:58 AM
Dave, in my shop a 6" jointer would be pretty useless. I use a jointer to face-joint lumber, and there are many boards which are wider than 6". With that in mind, I suggest a jointer which is 10" or wider.

Dave Richards
10-11-2006, 11:00 AM
Jamie, as I said, I would like a larger jointer but I don't have the space or 220V available to run the larger motor. If you can help me with those issues, I'll buy a 12" jointer.

Art Mulder
10-11-2006, 11:39 AM
I've got a Ridgid but I want a little longer table. I also discovered that the infeed table for the Ridgid has a crown to it so I'm investigating have the table flattened, too. I figured I'd look at replacement to see what makes more sense.

As much as I'd like to, I don't think I can swing an 8" jointer. Not enough space and no 220 for the 2HP motor
Hmm, I guess you don't have one of the "lifetime warranty" ridgid units?
That would solve your crown problem.

As for longer tables... back when I was shopping, General had the longest tables on 6" jointers. But they charge a premium for that. 55" tables -- 8" longer than Grizzly. (hmm, 46" tables on the Jet, and on the Delta x5, though the Delta's fence is 5-6" longer than the Jet and the Grizzly. You want a long fence also, ideally.

Have fun shopping.
...art

Edit:

PS: Hey, the ridgid has 45" tables. This is only 2" shorter than the Grizzly unit you're considering. That isn't much improvement!

Dave Richards
10-11-2006, 9:42 PM
Art, no I bought the jointer before they started that warranty thing.

I'm getting the impression that if I'm not going to get at least a 10" jointer, there's no point in buying one. Since I have no place to put a jointer that large and I haven't got the power to run one if I had it, I guess there's nothing to consider afterall.
:rolleyes:

Jamie Buxton
10-11-2006, 9:43 PM
Jamie, as I said, I would like a larger jointer but I don't have the space or 220V available to run the larger motor. If you can help me with those issues, I'll buy a 12" jointer.


You might keep your eye out for a used Inca 10" jointer/thicknesser. (You must buy one used because they are no longer imported into this country.) You get a jointer plus a thicknesser, and if I recall correctly they can run on 115 volts. It is also a very compact machine, which would suit your space issue. There's one on Craigslist here in San Francisco, but that's probably not much help for you.

Jim Becker
10-12-2006, 12:12 AM
Dave, I believe many of the 8" jointers run on 120v power...only a few have 2 hp or more motors.

Hoa Dinh
10-12-2006, 1:23 AM
My biggest problem with my Delta 6" jointer is not the width as much as the length. If I upgraded and if I could not go for an 8" jointer, I'd go for a long bed 6" jointer (e.g. Powermatic 54A).

Otherwise it makes little sense for me to upgrade at all.

Al Willits
10-12-2006, 9:11 AM
Dave, bit of a drive, but if you ever need a 8" jointer or 15" planer, your welcome to come up and use mine.


Al

Cliff Rohrabacher
10-12-2006, 9:28 AM
Jamie, as I said, I would like a larger jointer but I don't have the space or 220V available to run the larger motor. If you can help me with those issues, I'll buy a 12" jointer.

Space is easy. You move things to make room.
220 is easier still
You install a sub.
For years I ran an older TS on 220 by drawing off two seperately fused 110 lines.

Dave Richards
10-12-2006, 9:49 AM
Thanks for the offer Al. that's very kind of you.

Cliff, I'll have the coffee on on Saturday morning. Look forward to seeing you then. You can help meinstall that new sub and find the room for the new larger jointer. ;)

Thanks for all the comments folks. I'll look at the 8" jointers and see what I can find.

No one has answered my questions regarding the knives though.

Travis Porter
10-12-2006, 10:00 AM
I have no personal experience on spiral knives, but I have read good reviews on them. Cleaner cuts. A recent issue of Woodsmith had a pretty good article describing different style cutter heads for jointers.

Eddie Darby
10-12-2006, 10:24 AM
There are two 6" jointers that I like these days. One is the General 6" jointer with extra long tables, 55 1/4", mine are perfectly flat. I hear that General is famous for their fit and finish.

http://www.general.ca/pagemach/machines/80100a.html

The other would be the 6" jointer by Rikon. These people at Rikon are listening to woodworkers, and trying to meet their needs by designing tools with the end-user in mind. ie. the on/off/ switch has easy access.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Jointers/PlanerandJointers.html

If I were upgrading my jointer, I think I would look at the Byrd Shelix jointer head since the carbide inserts are on the spiral lay-out. The trouble with the one blade spiral designs is if you get a knick in them you can't adjust them to off-set the knicks. You must replace all three blades or live with the knick.

I would only consider the new heads if I were working with difficult grain woods a lot, such as curly maple. This is where the shearing cut excells at doing a nice smooth job, otherwise I find my regular head does a nice job if I make a thin slow last cut to clean things up.

ShopNotes Vol. 15 Issue 89 out on Newsstand right now, has a 2 page article on these after-market heads.

Bart Leetch
10-12-2006, 10:34 AM
I'm not sure in a small shop I would ever want a jointer with the switch up on top it wouldn't allow for placement of the jointer where some small shops would need to put it.

Besides that when I get old & decrepit enough I can't reach down to turn my jointer on or off I quite doing wood work.:D :D :D

scott spencer
10-12-2006, 10:57 AM
Without having personal experience with spiral knives, I can only paraphrase what I've read about them. The angling of the blade is said to give a cleaner cut, and the physics of that makes sense to me b/c not all the material is being lifted at the same time.

Both those machines are similar...they even came from the same factory once upon a time.

Phil Pritchard
10-12-2006, 12:23 PM
If I were upgrading my jointer, I think I would look at the Byrd Shelix jointer head since the carbide inserts are on the spiral lay-out.
I doubt that I would. That type of spiral insert cutterblock seems to leave very subtle "striations" which can translate into poor glue joint. My understanding from Leitz is that these insert heads were introduced for rough machining at the start of the process in 4-sided moulders and planer-sanders where they will be followed-up by further machining and in those cases the striations or witness lines aren't a problem. If you go to a conventional 4-knife (or if you are into Felder their new 6-knife) block the end results are actually very good.

Phil

everett lowell
10-12-2006, 7:22 PM
I got a used 8" for 400 bucks,and the old girl serves me well.:)