Bottle Stoppers

[John Terefenko]

New member with his first question. I want to get into making bottle stoppers. I was wondering how many others make these and if so what do you use as far as the stoppers, what about the blanks, and what type finish do you put on them??? What are good sources for these things?? Do any of you have pictures?? I am also looking to put different toppings such as different cabachons or inserts on the tops. Also would like to do some in team logos and was wondering if anyone had a source for these??? One last question, what price range would these sell for?? Thanks.

[Frank Fusco]

All of the major suppliers for woodturners carry the components. Stoppers are quick, easy and fun to make. Mine have been only for gifts (and they were well received) but some folks have success selling them. I choose a mid-range (price wise) stopper with silicone instead of rubber. I think whatever finish you like for other things would be fine on these. I do avoid Myland's as it does not wear well for things handled a lot. Great for vases that just set and get looked at. My current choice for small objects that get handled (pens, stoppers, etc.) is Deft spray-on laquer. As for pricing, you might consider the 3X rule of thumb as a starting point.

[Bob Hallowell]

I just started out but I have been selling quite a many at $28, But it depends on your area. I get most of my wood at west pen hardwoods. I mostly buy theire 1.5 x1.5 stock. and I can tell you my biggest sellers are the cocobolo and then the lignuam vitae (sp?) they also have some nice eucalyptus burl bottle balnks for $2 a peice. I am luck as they are only 2hrs away and I am up there alot for work. So I get to hand pick my wood.
I use thin ca and the hut wax and get a great shine..

www.westpennhardwoods.com (http://www.westpennhardwoods.com)

I get my kits at www.woodturningz.com (http://www.woodturningz.com) they are the psi kits but cheaper.


Bob

[Michael Cody]

Check out Ruth Niles SS bottle stopper kits.. these are better than anything out there in my opinion.. One of the biggest things I hate about other kits is that with a decent top, they are too tall ... plus the chrome ones will eventurally corrode. Ruth's SS kits are shorter, easy to use and won't corrode.


http://www.torne-lignum.com/stoppers.html

I have not interest in this business, just a satisfied user.

[Kenneth Hertzog]

John
A different type of bottle stopper is the ginter brand.
there is a web site under ginterenterprise .
they seal the bottle from the inside and the stopper is concealed.
I have purchased some of these and I'm looking forward to turning a few
ken

[John Terefenko]

I did speak with Ruth yesterday and she was kind enough to show me a picture of the stopper in the bottle and I agree that the whole picture is the wood not the stopper.

Ken I never heard of them and will give the site a look see. Thanks.

[Mike Jory]

Hi John;
I just recently turned my first stopper, I bought a Woodcraft kit to try. Came out just ok. As far as price, we had a garage sale this past Saturday and the stopper went for an easy $20. When my quality goes up a notch or two, including the finish, I'll get a little more.

Interesting thing, the lady who purchased the stopper (and a bunch of other items) asked me if I could bring a bunch of pens, letter openers and magnifying glasses, as well as stoppers, to her furniture store to sell in the counter case :D
I'm going to be looking into the higher quality Ruth Niles kits.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48107&thumb=1&d=1160188111 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48107&d=1160188111)
Sorry the pic is not larger, I cut and pasted from another thread.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Bottle are fun and popular as gifts and at craft shows. I do cork bodied units and price them at $15 and chrome units go for $30ish. Chrome units are all burls or stabilized blanks.

The Ruth Niles SS is a great idea, I bought samples at AAW symposium and as soon as I work down inventory of chrome I will switch.

John, if you want to do logos etc, make freinds with a laser guy.

Frank

[John Terefenko]

Thanks all for responding and one more question I would like to add to this is what type of finish is best for these?? I know they will be around alcohol and water. What do you guy and gals use to make them look like a million bucks.?? Not that is what I am going to charge.:)

[Nancy Laird]

Hi John;
I just recently turned my first stopper, I bought a Woodcraft kit to try. Came out just ok. As far as price, we had a garage sale this past Saturday and the stopper went for an easy $20. When my quality goes up a notch or two, including the finish, I'll get a little more.

Interesting thing, the lady who purchased the stopper (and a bunch of other items) asked me if I could bring a bunch of pens, letter openers and magnifying glasses, as well as stoppers, to her furniture store to sell in the counter case :D
I'm going to be looking into the higher quality Ruth Niles kits.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48107&thumb=1&d=1160188111 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48107&d=1160188111)
Sorry the pic is not larger, I cut and pasted from another thread.

Congratulations, Mike. Getting a customer like that is a dream. I had a similar thing happen over the weekend at a craft fair.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=43958

I'm a relatively new turner (only this summer), and this was a thrill for me, and I know you are pleased to have this outlet for your work. My next step is letter openers and stoppers.

John, the best finish for these is probably the same as you may use for pens--I use Hut Crystal Coat, it's a mixture of shellac and water-resistant Carnuba wax, and turns to a gorgeous shiny finish that brings out grain and protects too. I can't vouch for durability, though. I haven't been using it long enough to have someone complain that it's wearing off, but I have a pen that I've been using for a couple of months that is still as nice as it was when it came off the lathe.

Nancy

[Raymond Overman]

I second Ruth's stoppers. Worth the little extra you pay for them.

[chad cummings]

With Ruth's, what methods are you using to attach them.

[Gary DeWitt]

I third Ruth's stoppers. I ordered some awhile back and they really are good quality, and I know the stainless will hold up indefinitely. They are made with the option of screw threads or plain metal "dowel", 3/8" diameter. I get the ones with the threads for extra security, though I epoxy them on anyway so they won't twist in use. Good luck with your project, and don't forget to post pics of the finished ones!

[Roger Bell]

I have been turning a few lately in prep for the holidays. I ended up running low on design inspiration, so I did a Google Image search last night for ideas and to see what other people were doing. I looked at probably 50 websites of turners selling stoppers.

Low range price (for wood-top) seems to be around $15 with the very highest around $40-45. I didn't see any over $45. The majority of the ones sell (online) for around $25. The ones over $20 mostly have chrome or metal hardware....the cheaper ones have cork or other non-metallic hardware.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Roger
I found a guy a couple weeks ago selling a chrome bodied turned stopper for $109 on the internet. They were better looking than most but I believe that price level to be a bit optimistic.

I sell metal bodies between $25 - 30 depending on venue and wood/inlay while cork bodies go for $15. Metal bodies get best wood and cork is mostly domestic hardwoods.
Frank

[Bill Boehme]

John, the best finish for these is probably the same as you may use for pens--I use Hut Crystal Coat, it's a mixture of shellac and water-resistant Carnuba wax, and turns to a gorgeous shiny finish that brings out grain and protects too. I can't vouch for durability, though.

The problem with shellac is that ethyl alcohol is the solvent of choice. Ethyl alcohol is also the type contained in wine and other beverages. A durable and very nice finish is CA/BLO or just CA alone. It needs to be polished with Micromesh.

Bill

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I've been using BLO to pop the grain, then dewaxed shellac followed by Deft lacquer. All frictioned in.....when it comes of the lathe ...it's finished.