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View Full Version : Does an 8000ws actually create a better edge than a 4000?



Kevin Blunt
10-05-2006, 11:04 PM
Hey guys,

I am debating whether or not I reallly need an 8000 waterstone. I currently sharpen up to a 4000 stone and get very good results with it. If I decided to purchase an 8000 stone would I actually see a substantial increase in performance of plane blades and chisels? If it will make them that much sharper, then I will buy it but I have heard opinions from a few folks that they only sharpen to a 4000 stone and that is it. They say that it is all you need. Opinions please.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

Mike Wenzloff
10-05-2006, 11:45 PM
Hi Kevin,

The short answer is probably not. Will the edge be more refined? Assuming the same attention is paid while using it, yes. Can it make a difference on planes used to attain a final surface, especially final smoothing of exotics? Yes.

But that's about it. Other than the honing on an 8k stone of my smoothers, my bench planes and paring chisels only get done on a 2k while working. I made that decision because it only takes a single swipe or two between paring mortises or what not to keep a decent edge for the next one.

Take care, Mike

Mike Henderson
10-06-2006, 12:02 AM
I agree with Mike. For most of my tools, I don't take them past a 5K stone. I do have an 8K stone and use it occasionally, more when the spirit moves me than for any other reason.

For a smoother iron, I'd probably hone on the 8K.

Mike

Eddie Darby
10-06-2006, 1:41 AM
I run across people saying that it is too much work to go to 8,000x grit. The time I spend in the higher grits is very short, 5 to 10 swipes and it's all done. I go to 15,000 with a Shapton stone for my plane blades. I like the edge it gives me and I feel that it helps the blade to perform longer by doing so. I use the higher stones to touch-up the edge in-between sharpenings which allows me to prolong the time spent on doing woodworking, and that always seems to be a good investment to me. I also use David Charlesworth's "Ruler Trick" which also saves time....on my higher grit stones.

Rolf Safferthal
10-06-2006, 7:15 AM
I agree with Eddie! Using a fine stone saves time overall. My plane blades - except a scrub plane - see a dozen or so swipes on an fine grit and only on the microbevel. Seems to me that leads to a better edge and the edges last longer.

Tyler Howell
10-06-2006, 7:46 AM
I'm in with Eddie,
The threads or scratch marks if you will left by the lower grits, are like little fingers standing proud of the surface. Brake them off in normal use and your edge dulls more quickly. 8,12 & 15K grits don't give you a sharper edge but a finely honed egde that lasts longer:cool: .
If you've gone neander you can't be in that much of a hurry:confused:

Rob Lee
10-06-2006, 8:22 AM
Kevin -

I'd say no as well...

I go from a 4000X or 8000X to a chromium oxide (green stuff) strop... but I "strop" with paper or wood. The honing compound is like a big crayon... you can scribble it on just about anything... used with a hard backing (wood, or paper on wood) it works very well by hand...

Cheers -

Rob

Steve Wargo
10-06-2006, 8:24 AM
I agree with most here. I generally sharpen to 8000 grit on a waterstone. There is considerable difference on the ease of planing, and finish left on very hard woods like ebony and cocobolo. I will normally only hone my finish smoother and 60 1/2 to 12000 grit though. The rest go to 8000. Don't think I'd even consider stopping at 4000. It sure made a difference in the purpleheart I've been working with. good luck with your decision.

Ken Werner
10-06-2006, 10:58 PM
I am delighted with my Norton 4K/8K combination stone, and I never stop at 4K. I used to use a 6K WS, and the difference in appearance, and quality of cut is significant. Also, the amount of time spent at 8K after 4 is minimal, maybe a few minutes for the first flattening, and then not more than several strokes for ongoing honing. And the green stuff Rob refers to is really like icing on the cake. Then again, I'm pretty obsessive about sharpening.
Ken

Steven Wilson
10-07-2006, 1:25 AM
I go to the 15K Shapton on any blade that is used for a very fine cut; that might be a skew chisel for taking a very fine cut on the lathe, or a Steve Knight smoothing plane iron, the Clifton shoulder plane, or a Tasai chisel used to finely fit a mortise. 8K, 5K, 2K, 1K or just the Tormek are all used for blades that won't really benefit from the increased work. Once the basic geometry is set though it doesn't take too long to go up the grits.

Jake Darvall
10-08-2006, 7:57 AM
I just use 800 and 6000's. Agree you don't really need a 8000. I had one once until it had an accident. But I do notice a difference in using the 8000, but not a big one.

The biggest difference is the cost....at least in Australia. 6000 stone near 1/3 the price of a 8000. Hard to justify buying a 8000.