Switchable 220 volt Power Strip.

[Boyd Gathwright]

Switchable 220 volt Power Strip.

.... Is there available a power strip (or one I can build) that I can plug in three or more 220 volt plugs but either push a button or throw a switch to turn just ONE plug ON at a time? :)


Thanks

.

[Ken Deckelman]

I think you would have to build that yourself. You could get some proper receptacles, some 2 pole heavy duty switches and a suitable enclosure.

[Rob Russell]

If you're looking for a "240v power strip" with switching to turn on individual outlets, that's something you'd have to build.

Question - do you want it wired such that 1 and only 1 outlet can be hot at a time?

[Boyd Gathwright]

....The answer to your question Rob, is YES.

Thanks



If you're looking for a "240v power strip" with switching to turn on individual outlets, that's something you'd have to build.

Question - do you want it wired such that 1 and only 1 outlet can be hot at a time?

[Steven Wilson]

Sure, I have a bunch of 240v powerstrips I bought in Saudi, work great. However the plugs and recepticals aren't used over here (would work in Holland though). You will want to make your own.

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... Hi Steven, Thanks for the interest. Would you have a couple of pics to get some idea how they have approached the problem. Perhaps the plugs can be swapped out?

Thanks again




Sure, I have a bunch of 240v powerstrips I bought in Saudi, work great. However the plugs and recepticals aren't used over here (would work in Holland though). You will want to make your own.

[Bruce Wrenn]

You can buy 220 volt, 20 amp duplex recpt, but not at the home centers. Be prepared for "sticker shock" as they aren't cheap.

[Rob Russell]

Boyd,

I think that the strips Steven is talking about are just straight powerstrips, with no switching as you want. 120v service is standard to the USA, but in many parts of the world 240v is the standard voltage (some 50 Hz, some 60 Hz).

To build what you want is a little complicated. I'd do it with contactors and push button switches. That would give you automatic reset in the event of a power outage.

You'd have a set of Start/Stop or On/Off push button switches. Push a start/on button and the corresponding outlet gets power. You could even wire in an indicator light to show that the outlet was powered. Once you'd powered up an outlet, you couldn't power up any more until you stop the first one.

You'd need a pair of push buttons for each outlet plus a contactor with a Normally Closed auxillary contact in addition to the normal Normally Open holding contact. You'd end up wiring all this in decent sized box - this wouldn't be the size of a normal power strip.

Rob

[Randy Meijer]

You can buy 220 volt, 20 amp duplex recpt, but not at the home centers. Be prepared for "sticker shock" as they aren't cheap.

I bought one at my Home Depot; but you are correct...it wasn't cheap.....somewhere between $10 and $15 as I recall??

Bite my tongue!!! The receptacle I purchased is NOT a duplex. It only accepts a single plug. Sorry,

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

We have them here in Japan, I've even seen the three phase power strips where with switches, talk about expensive! :eek:

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Is there available a power strip (or one I can build) that I can plug in three or more 220 volt plugs but either push a button or throw a switch to turn just ONE plug ON at a time? :)

If I'm understanding you correctly, one way to acomplish this would be with three receptacles, each controlled by a contactor (i.e., relay), and a rotary selector switch that would energize one contactor at a time. Note that all the components would have to be housed in an enclosure that will end up being quite a bit bigger than the usual "power strip."

This would not be a difficult project, but it's not an quick-and-easy, off-the-shelf solution, either. It would help to know what your intended use is, because there may be a simpler solution that no one has thought of yet. Also, what kind of amp loads are you talking about? That could make a big difference in the cost of components.

[Rob Russell]

... one way to acomplish this would be with three receptacles, each controlled by a contactor (i.e., relay), and a rotary selector switch that would energize one contactor at a time.

Kent,

A rotary switch is a simpler and more elegant way to control which contactor is energized than my push button scheme.

Good suggestion. The only thing it lacks is power drop protection, but that's not likely a big deal.

Rob

[Boyd Gathwright]

....Hello Stu, I and I am sure others here on the forum would like to see a pic or two if you could manage it. This would give us some idea of how other people in other parts of the world have handled it.

Thanks ;)


We have them here in Japan, I've even seen the three phase power strips where with switches, talk about expensive! :eek:

[Kent Fitzgerald]

A rotary switch is a simpler and more elegant way to control which contactor is energized than my push button scheme.

Good suggestion. The only thing it lacks is power drop protection, but that's not likely a big deal.

Somehow I missed your message before posting mine. Sorry about the partial duplication.

Actually, I like your pushbutton idea, but I'm struggling with the mental schematic. Wouldn't each contactor need two extra N.C. contacts in order to lock out the other two start circuits? Maybe I'm missing something.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

....Hello Stu, I and I am sure others here on the forum would like to see a pic or two if you could manage it. This would give us some idea of how other people in other parts of the world have handled it.

Thanks ;)

Boyd, next time I head to Joyful Honda, my DIY store, I'll try to snap a pic or two.

Cheers!

[Bart Leetch]

Boyd I am interested how are you planning to use it?

[Rob Russell]

Actually, I like your pushbutton idea, but I'm struggling with the mental schematic. Wouldn't each contactor need two extra N.C. contacts in order to lock out the other two start circuits? Maybe I'm missing something.


Kent,

Master power comes in
Feed through a 1A or 5A fuse (assumes input is coming from a 15 amp or higher circuit and that the control circuits are wired with #18 so you need to protect that control wiring)
Wire a loop through all of the NC aux contacts (puts the NC aux contacts in series)
Output from this loop goes in parallel to each of the Start buttons.This little loop circuit supplies power to the Start buttons. When you hit one of the Start buttons, that contactor would latch (via latching circuit described below). As part of energizing, the contactor opens the NC aux contact on that contactor and therefore opens the circuit that supplies power to the Start buttons. This means that, once you've energized one of the contactors, you can't energize any other contactors because you don't have any power feeding the Start buttons.

Each contactor would have a NO holding contact to keep the contactor latched. Power to this holding circuit feeds off of the output from the contactor. You put the Stop button in the middle of that holding circuit and, when you hit stop, the contactor's coil loses power and the contactor opens. This is a standard way of wiring contactors.

One other comment - you'd want to use 240v coils on the contactors, otherwise you're forced to have a neutral as part of the wiring.

Rob

[Steven Wilson]

They had sockets that were individually switched but didn't lock out the others (if that's what you're looking for). As for swapping out recepticals they were molded in so it would destroy the strip trying to swap them.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

This little loop circuit supplies power to the Start buttons. When you hit one of the Start buttons, that contactor would latch (via latching circuit described below). As part of energizing, the contactor opens the NC aux contact on that contactor and therefore opens the circuit that supplies power to the Start buttons.
That's what I was thinking, but I'd be concerned about the split-second timing as the contactor is changing states. Is there a way to be sure that the NO contacts will close (latching up the relay) before the NC contacts open (interrupting the start circuit). If not, the contactor will function as a buzzer. I'm not very familiar with contactors, so maybe there's some built-in hysteresis that I don't know about. You could use a DC control voltage and some RC delay to make it work....

[Rob Russell]

... I'd be concerned about the split-second timing as the contactor is changing states. Is there a way to be sure that the NO contacts will close (latching up the relay) before the NC contacts open (interrupting the start circuit). If not, the contactor will function as a buzzer. ...

The holding circuit as I described it has been used in industry for decades ...

[Al Killian]

You could run a single 220 line and use a pigtail with a twist lock that you can easly change between machines. The supplies can be found at any home center and would be much less costly and much easeir to do? Just my two cents.
Al

[Kent Fitzgerald]

The holding circuit as I described it has been used in industry for decades ...
Yup, I understand the part about the holding circuit (using NO contacts) and I have no worries there.

My concern was about breaking the start circuit (with the NC contacts), which I didn't think was conventional practice.

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... Hi Rob, Yes, I certainly agree that a rotary switch is more simpler and elegant (as you put it). It is the way to go with make and brake contacts. And yes, you're right. Some thought will have to go into it. This is NOT going to be an off the shelf “CONTROL STRIP”. I'll have to see what reasonable heavy duty rotary switches are available. The way I see it now, the “CONTROL STRIP” would be made up of 5 female 220 – 240 volt plugs and the rotary switch in the center above the third female plug wired up with most likely #10 or even #8 wire. Boy that stuff is so hard to work with, especially those short runs, but it can and will be done.


Kent,

A rotary switch is a simpler and more elegant way to control which contactor is energized than my push button scheme.

Good suggestion. The only thing it lacks is power drop protection, but that's not likely a big deal.

Rob

:)




.... Hello Kent and Bart, the intended purpose of this proposed “POWER CONTROL STRIP” is to be an intermediate fix. Where there are NO vertical drops or the equipment must be moved to make room for whatever project that is at hand. Everything (almost) I have is on wheels and it expands or contracts according to the project being work on. I am and have been in the situation where I have had to plug and unplug the equipment many times in an hour. I could run heavy duty “00” extension cords but then I run the risk of starving out the electric motors depending on how many are running at any one time. And if you are like me, you turn one on and the noise level becomes loud enough you lose track of which machine is ON or off. Hence the “POWER CONTROL STRIP”. This way I can turn on or off economically any one of 5 machines by the mere rotation of a knob and not worry about amperage or starvation of any of the motors.


If I'm understanding you correctly, one way to acomplish this would be with three receptacles, each controlled by a contactor (i.e., relay), and a rotary selector switch that would energize one contactor at a time. Note that all the components would have to be housed in an enclosure that will end up being quite a bit bigger than the usual "power strip."

This would not be a difficult project, but it's not an quick-and-easy, off-the-shelf solution, either. It would help to know what your intended use is, because there may be a simpler solution that no one has thought of yet. Also, what kind of amp loads are you talking about? That could make a big difference in the cost of components.


Boyd I am interested how are you planning to use it?


:)




.

[Noel Hegan]

Boyd, 220 - 240V switched units (called trailing sockets or gang sockets) are pretty commom over here although they are all 13 amp. I've an old one up in my loft that the kid's train set runs on. I'll take a picture or two tomorrow if you want?


Rgds

Noel

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... Yes Noel, That may be of good interest. Thanks for taking the time. :)

Boyd


Boyd, 220 - 240V switched units (called trailing sockets or gang sockets) are pretty commom over here although they are all 13 amp. I've an old one up in my loft that the kid's train set runs on. I'll take a picture or two tomorrow if you want?


Rgds

Noel

[Rob Russell]

... I'll have to see what reasonable heavy duty rotary switches are available. The way I see it now, the “CONTROL STRIP” would be made up of 5 female 220 – 240 volt plugs and the rotary switch in the center above the third female plug wired up with most likely #10 or even #8 wire. Boy that stuff is so hard to work with, especially those short runs, but it can and will be done.

Boyd,

You don't need either a super heavy duty rotary switch or #8/10 wire for the control circuitry. The control circuit only needs to carry enough amperage to run the electromagnet in the contactors. That's under an amp, so #18 wire is fine for the control circuits. You just need to put a 1A fuse in the circuit to protect that wiring.

Edit: I just did a search on that auction site for "rotary switch". There's a good, heavy duty one that's closing Sunday afternoon. One thing you can do with the switch is wire in an indicator light by each plug. Supply power to the light through the contactor so you have a guaranteed way of showing which contactor is energized.


Rob

[Noel Hegan]

OK Boyd, here you go with the 240V socket strip:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket1Rcd.jpg
It's just a 3 plug socket.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket2Rcd.jpg
Wire colours - Brown = Hot, Blue = Neutral, Green/Yellow = Earth
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket3Rcd.jpg

I imagine the set-up is similar to what's available with you in 110V. Just heavier gauge wiring and components.
Perhaps a rotary switchi is the way to go.
Rgds
Noel

Noel

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... Noel, I do believe you have hit the proverbial nail on the head. The idea is exactly what I have in mind. To me, there is something familiar about this, although I don't think I've seen one of these before. Perhaps it's the internal molding that looks familiar, since I have been associated with electronics most of my life. Let me ask you, I assume those are “PUSH“ buttons above each receptacle? This is exactly what I had in mind originally, just a couple more female sockets and perhaps a 20 amp capacity for each socket and, of course, standardized for here in America. Your thoughts on the ROTARY SWITCH for a homemade (or shop) unit I fully subscribe to. When I think of what you said about being used for a train platform I just can't imagine kids playing with 13 amps! Great find and I do appreciate you sharing this with me and I'm sure others here on the forum will keep this in mind also.


Thank you again


Boyd :)


PS: Excellent pics also really appreciated.




OK Boyd, here you go with the 240V socket strip:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket1Rcd.jpg
It's just a 3 plug socket.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket2Rcd.jpg
Wire colours - Brown = Hot, Blue = Neutral, Green/Yellow = Earth
http://premium1.uploadit.org/noel157//Socket3Rcd.jpg

I imagine the set-up is similar to what's available with you in 110V. Just heavier gauge wiring and components.
Perhaps a rotary switchi is the way to go.
Rgds
Noel

Noel

[Noel Hegan]

Glad I could be of help Boyd. The individual switches are of the rocker type with a firm click between each position rather than push button. and cannot be operated until the plug is firmly inserted.
Appreciate your concern about our kids and 13 amps. All house hold circuits in Ireland and Europe are 240V with 3, 5 or 13 amp fused plugs and kids learn from an early age how to plug and unplug their toys from the switched wall sockets.
If I can be of any further help please shout.
Most of them can be bought in the local borg for less than $10 or so.

Rgds

Noel

[Rob Russell]

Noel,

Looking at the wiring, those are all independent switches, correct? By that I mean that you can switch one or all of them on if you so desire. It's not like turning one on will prevent you from turning the others on - right?.

Rob

[Noel Hegan]

That's right Rob. The switches are totally independent of each other.

Rgds

Noel