Using old DH windows on a SIP workshop?

[Neville Stewart]

I got 8 old double hung windows in great condition and I would llike to install them in my new workshop. It is made from Structural Insulated Panels ( OSB & Foam ), you can cut windows and doors out as you need them. I got some new aluminium windows that have an installation fin that can double as a moisture diversion. but the older frames fit the wall exactly ( 4 1/2 inches thick ), with no "fin" to give me a reveal. If I place the old frames flush with the outside, how do you "flash" them to keep water out. I will place stucco or hardi plank on the outside after the windows are in. Thanks in advance, Neville

[Jamie Buxton]

Welcome to the Creek!


How old are these "old" windows? Specifically, do they have a nailing flange?

[Art Mulder]

Welcome to SMC, Neville. Great place to be.

Please be sure and post many, many pictures of your shop being built. We love photos here. Furthermore, I, personally, am very interested in the SIP building method.

But to your question, I'm puzzled... if you install these windows flush with the outside of the SIP, then they'll be recessed once you put up your exterior cladding!!

Maybe someone who knows more about window installation will chime in.

...art

[Bob Wilkerson]

This might help you in looking at the flashing process for old style windows. I'd alson install a pan under the window to make sure that you don't have any water infiltration issues.
http://www.fortifiber.com/fbsg/pdf/install_guides/moistop_BrickMold_Flashing.PDF#search='window%20fl ashing%20detail'

I'll hazard a guess that you're talking about installing the old window flush with the exterior and will then apply trim around it? This would be my method as well.

Bob Wilkerson - building homes in Virginia....

[Mike Wilkins]

Cut a long slot approx. 1-2 inches above the upper part of the opening. After the windows are installed, insert aluminum flashing into the slot with adhesive caulk, bending the lower part of the flashing over the top of the window. That way any water will run over the outside of the window and not into the gap between the window and the opening. Siding can be placed over this flashing to hide it and give a much nicer appearance.
Good luck and congrats on the new shop.

[Neville Stewart]

To answer the questions ; The windows are probably 40 years old but in excellent shape and will fit the "look" we are going for. I think the idea of flashing placed in the slot and a " pan " are the one I'll use. I will post pictures to show progress and thanks for all the replies. The workshop is 40' x 40' on the ground and likely 30'x 20' on the second floor/loft. I will probably locate an AC'd hand tool room on that floor with lumber storage. Its about 24' tall at the peak. Here are some pics of the start. They show red iron frame & SIP's awaiting placement.

[Neville Stewart]

To Art & anyone else interested in SIP's you might like to look at this pictorial of the house and why we want the workshop to look like it hopefully will.
http://www.themaroneycompany.com/beecaves.html

Glad to answer any questions on SIP, this was the first house around here built with them(I think), and it was an education, let me tell you!

[Art Mulder]

you might like to look at this pictorial of the house and why we want the workshop to look like it hopefully will.
http://www.themaroneycompany.com/beecaves.html


Hey Neville, that is cool. It wasn't exactly what I had in mind - I'm interested in seeing places where the SIPs are the entire wall, and not just the insulation wrapped around beams. The S stands for Structural, after all.

I've been checking out videos at http://www.thermapan.com/ But they don't show an entire house, and they don't show things like fishing electrical and so on.

But I'll stop, I'm getting OT for this thread.

[Neville Stewart]

Art, I will show some more pics. The red iron is a backup to the structural part of the sip. In a house you have internal walls to add support to the roof, but as you can imagine the workshop is pretty wide open inside. We built the iron structure and then took a good portion of it out ( all the girts in fact ). The roof purlins support the roof panels though. its a 40x40 with only 6 beams in it.

[Jerry White]

Neville,

Welcome to Sawmill Creek. I can't answer your question, but just had to complement you an excellent adaptation of post and beam construction to the Texas Hill Country environment. I really enjoyed the photo show. Back to your question, there is plenty of expertise here, and someone will come through for you.

Jerry

[Neville Stewart]

Thank you Jerry. I see you're in Katy. The house has taken quite a while to come to fruition, almost 2 years from design to completion. The barn came from Latrobe, Pa. circa 1840. As for the talent here, I consider myself most fortunate to have the benefit of all your advice. Thank you!

[Neville Stewart]

Heres a few pics of the shop build., it seems I can only load one at a time, I'll work on that.

[Neville Stewart]

Here are a few cutouts for the office area windows & doors. You can see the cut out slabs on the floor to left.

[Neville Stewart]

Sorry if this is against the rules. I would do it differently if I knew how :-(
This is the inside, thats a 10 ft. door and a DeWalt slider to give you proportion.

[Jim Becker]

Outstanding shop!

There is a tutorial on pictures stickied at the top of the Support Forum that you may find helpful. You can attach up to 5 pictures per post.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Neville, and welcome to the creek.

Back in 2001 we built a 3200+ sq ft house, and a 625 sq ft shop, both using SIPs from Premiere building Systems out in Arizona. We selected 8" thick panels to get an R-30 wall.

One thing that bothers me is that, with the number of windows and doors, the insulating properties of the SIPs is greatly compromised. It basically boils down to this: if the "old windows" are not thermo-pane, throw them out without hesitation. Get yourself some windows, and doors, that are commensurate with the SIPs. Your problem will not be a winter heading problem, but rather a summer cooling problem, and without good windows, you will pay dearly for summer A/C.

[Neville Stewart]

The old windows will go on the dark side of the shop, all the ac space will have commercial glass in it. The old windows are more for looks really.

[Ken Garlock]

The old windows will go on the dark side of the shop, all the ac space will have commercial glass in it. The old windows are more for looks really.

Sounds like you have it covered. Have fun.:)

[Joe Chritz]

I have done a house with SIP panels where we did everything but the roof with them.

They have some quirks, namely in electrical running but are a solid building system.

My house is 2x4 stud construction with ridgid spray polyurethane insulation. On a side by side basis I see very little difference but I like the thinner wall cross for installing windows/doors without extension jams.

At the time I was building mine and the price difference was substantial if you were not paying someone labor to build it. For an experienced crew it was about a wash.

Also I would opt for the flash pan as already discussed for the windows.

Good luck.

Joe