Finishing Oak Veneered Plywood Edges

[JOHN HAMMES]

I have a 3/4" X 3.5' X 8' oak-veneered plywood sheet that I'm making into a desk top. What's the best time-saving way to finish the edges of this? I'd like to hide the layered look of the plywood so it looks like a solid oak piece. I'm using clear polyurethane/stain finish as a first coat, then using clear urethane to "spitcoat" the piece, followed by satin finish urethane as a top coat (All Minwax Brand).
Thanks in advance!!

John:)

[Neil Lamens]

Hi John:

Are you planning to treat the edge with a molded shape???

If not, as you asked, the best time saving approach would be to purchase iron-on oak banding. Trim, lightly brake the edge, and sand.

The next quickest way would be to purchase some 3/4 oak molding, then glue and brad nail to cover ply edges. If you can't find that thickness, you can build-up the ply-edge to the thickness molding you've purchased then attache.

If you plan on putting your own molded edge, then you'll need to machine your own edge material then glue and clamp each ply-edge. There are numerous thickness you can edge with; all dependent on what you have planned for your edge profile.

Hope that helps........Neil

[JOHN HAMMES]

Niel:

Thanks so much! I'm a novice with only slight experience in woodworking. I've been lucky in that the previous projects I've tackled have turned out OK. Hope this one does too! Again, Thanks!!

John Hammes
:)

[JOHN HAMMES]

First, Neil, let me apologize for mis spelling your name in the first reply. Second;

Since I'm so new to woodworking, I need some clarification on one of the terms in your reply. I'm not sure what "brake the edges" means. Would you mind spelling that out for the lame layman? Thanks again!!

John Hammes:o

[Neil Lamens]

Hi John:

hey......don't worry about experience, ask away, its about getting confortable enough to get the chips flying.

As for breaking the edge, its a quick term used when one takes a sanding block and just runs it along the 90 degree corners of their work.

In your case, if you use the iron-on edging, you'll want to trim the excess overhang. Your ply board is 3/4, the banding is 1". Once you've got the board trimmed, with 150 grt on your sanding-block, just run it along the corners where the ply and edging meet. You don't want to leave any high edges of the banding that could get caught and tear. You're not going to "Round" the edge, just break the sharp corner of the edge.

Also down the road as your experience grows, for finishing reasons, say you are to use a spray finish (ie: very simply a can of deft), you'd want the edges "broke" so the spray finish has a better adhesion. The spray finish will build up better on an ever-so-slightly rounded (or broken edge) surface than a pointy 90 degree angle.

Do you know what edge profile you want???

Neil

[chris fox]

You can buy quality oak(red/white) at a local woodworking store. I still use a clothing iron to apply. Whats about the iron, its durable and can be reheated if you misalign the edge. I typically center the banding and take the time to trim both sides. Be carefull not to overheat, I have burned the wood banding .
Good luck

[Charlie Plesums]

Don't forget to press the hot edge banding in place with a block of hardwood while it is cooling. If you just move on with the iron, it sometimes pulls away before it cools and sticks.

[JOHN HAMMES]

You guys are great! Never had so much help in such a short time. I love this forum! If there are more replies, that's OK...keep 'em comin'!

As for following the iron with the wood block and not leaving the iron in one place too long, those are things that makes sense that I never thought of. For the profile choice, I never thought about that either, and might consider that...it would be interesting to see what I can find. For the braking definition; Thanks! I now know what it is!


John