Jointer wisdom needed!!

[Jerry Olexa]

Running my new jointer through its paces and all is fine EXCEPT when running longer stock through it flat. I am getting occassioinal small indentations (reverse ridges) accross the grain. I am using an outfeed roller device and a table saw top as my infeed helper on these longer pieces (8-9'). I think it is a matter of maintaining even downward pressure as I feed the stock through the 46" bed. Being new to jointer use, I find it necessary to shift hands and pushers as this longer stock feeds thru. Am I on the right track and are there any tricks?? Thanks...

[Lars Thomas]

Jerry, I'd say you are on the right track. Try to always keep the stock moving - with even pressure. If you can plan ahead, it helps if you can cut them down to a more managable length. Also check to be certain your infeed/outfeed isn't causing the stock to bend at all. You can do this by edge jointing a piece of stock and clamping it to the fence. Lars

[Jim Becker]

Only use the minimal amount of pressure you need to keep the board down on the machine and moving...do not "distort" the board for two reasons: 1) it will not get flat since you want to shave off the "high spots" and 2) each time you do the "hand shuffle", you really can't maintain even pressure, resulting in the marking you are observing. Further, once the board has a reasonable amount of length beyond the cutter head, your hands should be alternating on that side (outfeed side) and not involved with the infeed side unless you are having trouble getting the board to slide.

[Jerry Olexa]

Jim and Lars: Thanks. Sounds like I need to concentrate on smooth, light, continued pressure as I move the stock through. I did feel there was "jerkiness" as I jointed these test pieces. I probably also need to invest in a better wax for the bed. I sprayed on T-9 aerosal which I had picked up @ a WWing show last year. Very disappointed w results. Even after wiping off seemed to hinder the smooth gliding of the wood. What's a good paste wax ? Thanks...

[Jim Becker]

I just use some old MinWax paste wax on my iron 'cause I have it. But SC Johnson Wax is kinda a "standard"....

[Stan Mijal]

Jerry,

How's the knee doing?
A lot of times when the stock is fed too quickly across the knives, you get little waves on the face of the board.
The other suggestion is to keep the pressure on the outfeed table (as someone else already suggested) This allows the board to feed into the knives free from distortion. It took me a while to realize this one, I was always putting pressure on the infeed table too, and the board edges became concave instead of straight.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Jerry, is the 8'-9' the final length you need? If not it is always easier, more accurate , and less wasteful to cut to length first and joint the shorter pieces.

As for wax I use bowling alley wax that was left by the previous owners of the house for the oak floors. I've seen others using other brands of vowling alley wax and you should be able to find it at any good hardware store, maybe even the grocery store.

Jake

[Al Navas]

... I did feel there was "jerkiness" as I jointed these test pieces. I probably also need to invest in a better wax for the bed. I sprayed on T-9 aerosal which I had picked up @ a WWing show last year. Very disappointed w results. Even after wiping off seemed to hinder the smooth gliding of the wood. What's a good paste wax ?...
Jerry,

T-9 does a terrific job at preventing corrosion, but you are right - even after wiping it is not as slippery as good ol' wax.

I suggest that you always wax after using the T-9. Whatever you do, don't stop using T-9. But also use Johnson's wax after the T-9 has dried thoroughly. I apply the wax at least an hour after the T-9, after wiping down and thoroughly spreading the Boeshield. Make sure to do a good job of spreading and wiping the wax using a lint-free cloth or paper shop towel.

The wax will keep your surface nice and smooth. You can always apply a little more as needed. Avoid any wax that has silicones in it, such as wax that is applied to cars.


Al

[Tom Hintz]

Jerry,
I think that applying the right amount of pressure to get the board flat without influencing the cut is one of the harder techniques to learn at the jointer. Practice and paying attention to the results are probably the best teachers.
I have a story in our "Basics" section on using the jointer that might have some tips that will be of help. See the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html

[Al Willits]

Can't add anything other than it took a couple of coats of Johnson's paste wax to get the finish I like, first coat, waited 1/ hr, buffed then second coat, works pretty smooth for me now.

Automotive buffer works nice if ya have one,

Al

[Jerry Olexa]

[quote=Tom Hintz]Jerry,
I think that applying the right amount of pressure to get the board flat without influencing the cut is one of the harder techniques to learn at the jointer. Practice and paying attention to the results are probably the best teachers.
I have a story in our "Basics" section on using the jointer that might have some tips that will be of help. See the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html[/quote

Thanks Tom. Good info for a new to jointers guy like me..Thanks, I'll use

[Jerry Olexa]

Al, Jim, Al, Jake, Stan and Lars: Thanks for your wisdom and tips...Sounds like I need a trip to hardware store to get some paste wax. Also, I'll pay attention to switching the light pressure to the outfeed side and try to cut/joint shorter pieces needed for the project. Great info and guidance!!! Thanks..

[Jesse Cloud]

Pressure on the stock is the likely culprint here, but one thing I forget sometimes is to joint with the grain. Its extra confusing because its just opposite of the planer (at least with my machinery) cuz the jointer blades are rotating clockwise from below the stock and planer blads rotate clockwise from above the stock.

[Jim Becker]

Practice....practice...practice...this is one of those "finesse" things!

[Karl Laustrup]

All very good advice Jerry. May I add one more to the above.


KEEP FINGERS AWAY FROM BLADES!!!


DAMHIKT!!!!!


Karl

[Jerry Olexa]

Just bought a can of SC Johnson Paste Wax:) :) Stay tuned...Thanks guys!!

[Jerry Olexa]

All very good advice Jerry. May I add one more to the above.


KEEP FINGERS AWAY FROM BLADES!!!


DAMHIKT!!!!!



Karl
Yeah, Karl. I know those blades look scary...Hope you're doing OK ??

[Al Navas]

Just bought a can of SC Johnson Paste Wax:) :) Stay tuned...Thanks guys!!

OK.


Sooooo... How is IT doing now? Looking forward to your results with the slick surface :D .


Al

[Jerry Olexa]

OK.


Sooooo... How is IT doing now? Looking forward to your results with the slick surface :D .


Al

My daughter and family here for dinner tonight. Probably won't do any actual jointing till Monday....But the jointer bed now feels slick and smooth. Anxious to try..Stay tuned..:)

[Al Navas]

....But the jointer bed now feels slick and smooth...

Great! I think that will help quite a bit.


Al

[Jerry Olexa]

The wax helped a lot!! Ran a few test pieces this AM, even one long, slightly bowed piece AND moved through much better and smoother!The finished stock showed no more reverse ridges (altho I have a little rippling. Prob feeding it a little fast). Concentrated on smooth, even, light pressure and all is well. Thanks y'all. Think we're OK now...

[Lynn Kasdorf]

From my experience, I get better results when I do not have an outfeed roller. Basically, I can never get the height adjusted perfectly, and if it is a wee bit too high, it will really mess up your results. And if it is below the surface of your outfeed, you don't want to be touching it anyway. So- it will only work if it is absolutely perfect. Ain't gonna happen.

Now that I have an 8" jointer with a good long bed, I have no trouble getting a straight edge on 10' oak. I think that letting the planed edge on the wood ride on the iron outfeed table is crucial. A roller messes up the "feel".

I think it is ok to have an infeed roller as long as it is decidedly below the infeed surface. This can assist in preparing for the actual cut but shoudl not be relied upon, IMHO.

[Al Navas]

The wax helped a lot!!
That is really good, Jerry! Congrats.



Ran a few test pieces this AM, even one long, slightly bowed piece AND moved through much better and smoother!The finished stock showed no more reverse ridges (altho I have a little rippling. Prob feeding it a little fast). Concentrated on smooth, even, light pressure and all is well. Thanks y'all. Think we're OK now...
From here on out all it takes is just a little practice. Will you be cutting the boards down to project size? You may be surprised at how much easier it is to joint shorter boards.


Al

[Jerry Olexa]

Will you be cutting the boards down to project size?

Al[/quote]

Yes, I think that is one of the secrets to easier jointing i.e., cut to rough size of piece needed and then joint. Thanks for your help...

[Jake Helmboldt]

Wax is probably one of the best, and most overlooked solutions to a number of issues in the shop. I was face jointing last night with the handplanes and thought "gee this thing seems to have a lot of drag". Waxed it w/ 4-0 steel wool; amazing difference. Nearly threw the plane across the garage when I made the first pass. ZING!

The steel wool seems to really get it into the machined surfaces.