Waddya think of the Veritas scraper plane?

[Robert Gilbert]

I've tried to get mine to work. I true and sharpen the scraper blade, give it a very slight bow, but find all it wants to do is take really aggressive cuts with each pass. Also, it leaves pretty deep plane tracks. Has anyone else been able to get this fine looking tool to work? If so, do you have any advice you can pass along? Thanks kindly...

Rob Gilbert
Ottawa

[Tony Falotico]

I have used mine successfully, like it a whole lot, especially on curly grained wood. Pull that blade in so it barely protrudes, put a slight bow on the blade. Sounds like you have the blade to far out if its cutting aggressively. Remember, it's a scraper, not a plane. It's not supposed to cut, it scrapes. It's used for Final finishing, not leveling or smoothing.

I think everyone has their own style, therefore their own settings for what works best for them. Don't give up, keep trying, pull that blade in. Once you get the hang of it, you'll like it.

Remember, it's a scraper, not a plane.

[JayStPeter]

I've used mine a few times, but it really has limited use. The wood you're scraping must be extremely flat to start with or it doesn't do much good. I usually resort to a sander, so I've had to force myself to use it a few times. I expect it to be more useful when working with curly wood (something I haven't done in a while). It only takes real light shavings, sounds like you're trying to use it to hog some wood.

[Jim Becker]

It's not supposed to cut, it scrapes.

Actually, a "scraper" does cut, but very finely; the degree of which is based on the way you prepare the cutter. (burr, et al) But you are absolutely correct that the expectation should be different from the "more aggressive nature" of a plane!

[Frank Desaulniers]

I don't have the LV version but it works like the LN 112. I don't like those thin blades though. Do you have the thick blade that goes with it? If you do, just sharpen it at 45° (like a plane blade, with a just a little camber by applying finger pressure to the sides for the last 5 or 10 strokes on a 1000 stone) and drop it in the plane. Don't bother with a burr. Set the angle a little less than the final angle, say 110°. Lay the plane on a flat surface (like your bench), let the blade drop to the surface of the bench, then tighten the blade. Now the cutting edge should be even with the sole. Now just advance the blade a degree or two, tighten, and try it out. It should start to work. If not, try once more, a degree or two. If it doesn't work after a few tries, start over (you didn't get the blade flush with the sole, or it you moved a little when you tightened it).
Once you get the hang of it it's easy. Then you can start experimenting with burrs or the thinner blades. I don,t see the point of the thin blades that bend...you can use a hand scraper to do the same thing. With a thick blade a scraper plane can take off wood pretty quickly. I use mine to flatten panels and big laminations, to even out rims while fitting box lids...
http://www.lamortaise.com/modules/gallery/albums/album34/Cnv0168_scraper_112_shaving.sized.jpg

HTH

[Alice Frampton]

FWIW, this is the advice Rob Lee gave someone on another forum:


Firstly - I burnish at a lower angle - say 8-10 degrees...

Then I try scraping with the blade by hand - to get a feel for where the burnished blade cuts best... and set your frog at that angle. Place the plane on a flat surface, and let the blade contact the wood...tighten up the clamping screw. Now, tilt the frog just a touch back (so the blade is not touching the wood) and bow it (now it may be engaging the wood again just a tad)...and adjust cut carefully by moving the frog, and altering the bow...

One has to juggle frog angle, burnish angle, blade projection, and bow....

The good news is - one you've got it - it's easy to repeat...

FWIW - I use this plane often as a "pull" plane....especially for longer strokes....try that too!

Cheers, Alf

[Larry Rose]

Robert, I have a L-N 112 which is nearly the same yours. In addition to what every one else said, not all wood responds well to a scraper. It seems that some softer woods such as cypress just don't like to be scraped.

[Rob Lee]

Hi Robert -

Alf gave most excellent advice.... :)

Since you're local, I'd be glad to set up an appointment with someone here to show you how to set it up if you like... just email me directly at rlee@leevalley.com ...

It's an intimidating plane for many people... but when you "get it" ... it'll become a favorite...

Cheers -

Rob

[Cecil Arnold]

I don't have a dog in this fight (no LV planes, but lots of LV stuff) but if Rob's reply is not great Customer Service I don't know what is. I only wish more companies were like Lee Valley, then we would get some great tools innovations at good prices.

[Jim W. White]

Wow!!!

A personal offer from Rob Lee to set up some tutoring!! ...that just blows me away!

I've had the LV scraper for a couple of years now and go to it often! You've been given some good advice on how to set it up. I would only add that as stated before, as you change the angle, you will change the amount of blade exposed beneath the plane sole ...so sometimes if your loosing the bite you were getting previously, it is best to try a couple turns of the angle screw prior to tweaking the blade depth by readjusting the cap iron.

Once you get the hang of it, it will perform, and you will be impressed! :) I've used mine mostly on fiddleback maple.

You might find some other helpful guidance in this old link I posted when I first got mine.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15903

...Jim in Idaho

[Robert Gilbert]

Sweet. Thanks!