Couple of DNA Questions

[Mike Jory]

OK... I'll start by saying I've read the past Dave Marks threads, and his web site. I may have missed a couple of points.
I've been given a Walnut (I think) log that I cut up and rough turned one bowl so far. I have green wood sealer on the other 6 blanks. They have a little moisture left. I hope you guys can help with a couple questions.

After roughing out a bowl, must you put it in DNA right away. I put green wood sealer on it, that I guess will have to be removed before soaking. I have to go out and get my DNA supply.

I've heard the DNA can last for several, maybe 10-12 blanks. How does a person tell when the water content needs to be displaced with more DNA, or thrown out? Along with some evaporation, can I just add some fresh DNA to some in use already?

Between uses, can you slow down the evaporation using a bucket and fitted lid that can be set aside.

I was going to boil with an outdoor portable burner, but this seemed to be alot safer. Having done neither. As always, all comments are appreciated:D

(Edited) Actually, If anyone has more insight into the DNA experience I'd appreciate hearing from you. I want to go in with as much ammunition as possible.
Mike

[Andy Hoyt]

Mike - All I have is a recycled 5 gallon joint compound bucket with lid. The only time the lid is off is when I'm putting something in or taking something out. You'll lose some liquid each time you soak something as it gets absorbed into the wood. I've never worried about the concentration factor of the DNA, and only add more when what's in there won't cover the piece I just put in. And I've never bothered with an "all new batch of DNA". I've been using the process for about nine months and am pleased with it.

[Cecil Arnold]

Mike, I found a "reasonably" priced Haz-Mat recovery half drum that is slightly over 20" in diameter and will hold about 20 gal. It has a tight fitting lid and ring that seals it up pretty tight. You may find the best deal on DNA, unless you have a good source, is your local Ace hardware. I got them to order 5 gal. for about $43 which is less than the $11+ per gal. most places charge. Like Andy, I only replenish what is in the drum, although I was given a hydrometer (I think that's the correct name for it) that I will be using to check the % of alcohol in the future. Don't think I'll do anything different, just curious.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have over 50 blanks on the exact same batch of DNA. Maybe it's because I'm too penny-pinchin to start fresh.... but it's still working. I'm on my 2nd batch of DNA over the last 2 years.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Mike, you really have to watch some of these guys. As if the Vortex isn't bad enough with that s_u_c_k_i_n_g sound. then you have some of them adding to the pain in your right hip.:D Unless you are going to do bowls over 13" in diameter, go to your local swimming pool cleaner. They throw out dozens of big white plastic chemical buckets with self sealing lids every week. Grovel for a few of those and you'll be set for a good while. Besides, then, you can then let the sucking sound get you for something else you can't do without.:eek:

[Dennis Peacock]

Mike, you really have to watch some of these guys. As if the Vortex isn't bad enough with that s_u_c_k_i_n_g sound. then you have some of them adding to the pain in your right hip.:D Unless you are going to do bowls over 13" in diameter, go to your local swimming pool cleaner. They throw out dozens of big white plastic chemical buckets with self sealing lids every week. Grovel for a few of those and you'll be set for a good while. Besides, then, you can then let the sucking sound get you for something else you can't do without.:eek:

Oh so well stated Chris!!!!! :)

[Jeff Myers]

If you have a 5 gallon bucket and don't want the hassle of those "tabbed" lids that are so hard to get off...i found some lids called "gamma seal" (goggle the name and should find plenty of sellers) lids that have a collar you pop on the bucket and this collar has a thread on the inside
to mate with a threaded/sealed lid. Screws on and off with ease and the rubber gasket seal keeps dna from evaporating too....and they come in
purty colors if that's your thang.:) The lids are around $6,,,not a bad investment to me.
***I'm not affiliated with these guys at all,,,just found it fit my needs perfectly and a lot less expensive than a hazmat/chemical spill container(although those come in larger than 5gallon buckets).
47568

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike ditto what Dennis and Andy said. I have yet to completely change out my DNA. I just add as needed.

[Mike Ramsey]

Some one here posted a scientific way of telling when it's time to change
your DNA or alcohol, I think the procedure was to throw a spoonfull on
the floor and see if it evaporates within a couple of minutes, if it don't
then it's time to change........haven't tried it myself....yet...

[Dennis Peacock]

Some one here posted a scientific way of telling when it's time to change
your DNA or alcohol, I think the procedure was to throw a spoonfull on
the floor and see if it evaporates within a couple of minutes, if it don't
then it's time to change........haven't tried it myself....yet...

Mike,

I believe I posted something like that at some time in the past. But, what I found by accident is that I spilled about 1/2 pint on the concrete floor and after about an hour, it never evaporated....to me, that's telling me that the mix was mostly water (just thinking out loud here) and that it was time to change it. Surprisingly enough, my bowl blanks started coming out better after the DNA change out to a fresh batch. Just my experience with this.

[Reed Gray]

I did use the DNA for a while, but switched to LDD. I did take the last 5 gallons or so of the DNA and added it to the LDD instead of water (optimal mix 50/50). I had soaked walnut, madrone, myrtle, ash, cherry, apple, maple, english walnut, oak, chinkapin, and maybe another one or two woods in it. The soap mix now (after several hundred bowls) looks like sludge. I tried to filter it through 2 t shirts, but that did nothing. There is some color from all of the wood that has soaked in it, and what appears to be a lot of saw dust, even though none of them had been sanded, just green turned. I do weight some of the bowls down to keep them submersed. If part of it is above the fluid level, it does leave a color ring. Most of the added color to the lighter woods does sand out.I think that I will work this batch down and then find some weeds or an ant hill, and dump it, then start again. I have thought about one soaking tub for dark woods, and one for the light woods. A bowl that has been soaked in LDD is much easier to sand. If you are returning, then I don't think it will make that much difference. The bowls that I DNA soaked were harder to sand.
robo hippy

[Mike Jory]

Mike, you really have to watch some of these guys. As if the Vortex isn't bad enough with that s_u_c_k_i_n_g sound. then you have some of them adding to the pain in your right hip.:D Unless you are going to do bowls over 13" in diameter, go to your local swimming pool cleaner. They throw out dozens of big white plastic chemical buckets with self sealing lids every week. Grovel for a few of those and you'll be set for a good while. Besides, then, you can then let the sucking sound get you for something else you can't do without.:eek:

Now that had me laughing out loud. That's a good idea, got a pool dealer in town here. Got a few 5g buckets, but no lids. I still have to figure out how to remove the green wood sealer when I toss these in DNA
Thanks to everyone...
Mike

[Andy Hoyt]

That's easy Mike. You mount it on the lathe, grab a hunk of sharp steel, flinch, pucker, and have it.

[Mike Jory]

Oh... that's right..:o I can put it right back on the lathe... What was I thinking:eek: