joint long board

[David Mueller]

Need to edge joint a 6' board on my G500. It's got an edge bow so it drops about 3/16 to an 1/8 from the center to each end. If I set the board on the bed the end is at the knife and the center is at the end of the table. I see several options, 1) hand plane from center out to each end to roughly flatten, then joint. 2) shim center slightly and joint from end to center, turn board around and repeat. 3) freehand on BS to line struck from end to end , just knicking center then joint. I'm sure there are other ways, any better ideas or pitfalls to mine.:confused:

[Norman Hitt]

The method I use (and I think is the fastest AND easiest), is to lay the board on a table and then lay a piece of 3/4" MDF that I have that is 3/4" x 8" x 8' long that has the "Factory Edge" on one side and is straight, on top of the board to be straightened. I align the MDF's non factory edge along the line I want to cut on the board to make it straight, and then screw the MDF to the board close to each end of the board. I then set the fence so the blade will just barely touch the MDF's edge and then with the board on the bottom and MDF on top and against the fence, run the assembly through the tablesaw. I then unscrew the MDF from the board and if necessary, run that edge once over the jointer, then back to the TS and rip the second edge parallel to the jointed edge. I find this is real fast to do and results in minimum waste and MUCH longer time between jointer blade sharpenings.:D

[jim chambers]

I would just set the depth of cut at a little over 1/8; put the convex edge down, front end just touching the outfeed bed, and then joint the board. That's how I joint all boards on the first pass.

On real long ones I start the first pass with more of the board overhanging the outfeed table. That gets me a good length of straight board to straighten the two ends (which are still up in the air off the bed) on successive passes.

regards,
jimc

[Peter Stahl]

Need to edge joint a 6' board on my G500. It's got an edge bow so it drops about 3/16 to an 1/8 from the center to each end. If I set the board on the bed the end is at the knife and the center is at the end of the table. I see several options, 1) hand plane from center out to each end to roughly flatten, then joint. 2) shim center slightly and joint from end to center, turn board around and repeat. 3) freehand on BS to line struck from end to end , just knicking center then joint. I'm sure there are other ways, any better ideas or pitfalls to mine.:confused:


I vote for #3, I like to have as straight a board as possible before I run it through the jointer. Something that long will be even more difficult. The largest piece of wood I ever did on my 6" Jointer was a ~7 foot long 6/4 X 8" piece of Oak. Used rollers at the infeed/outfeed tables. Take your time, don't overcut, take light passes.

[David Mueller]

Thanks guys, good suggestions. The MDF idea is great and very good for slabs with undulating natural edge but seems overkill here. Besides I'm too lazy right now to get a piece long enough since I'm currently without. Thanks peter, that's my thinking too.

[Steve Jenkins]

set the jointer for about 1/16 cut and put the board on the jointer so the high center is over the cutterhead. Joint from the cneter to the end then reverse the board and joint from the center to the other end. be sure not to press the bow out. you will be moving the board a ways before it starts to cut. You may have to do this more than once each direction then you will be able to take a full normal pass. I use the jointer just like you would a hand plane. i joint sections that need it to get fairly straight then go for the full length pass.
Steve

[JayStPeter]

I used a straight edge guided router until I got my bandsaw. Then, I used the bandsaw method until I got my Festool. Now I use a guided circular saw. Each faster, easier and less messy than the previous.

Jay