I just don't get it? All the fuss about jointing that is.

[harry strasil]

I just don't get what all the fuss about jointing boards is all about. I tried to explain the easy way some time back, but no one paid any attention to me.

So, I went down to the shop and dug out the old jointer I made to joint some 5 1/2 foot boards for a friends table top a few years ago, and I have used it several times for my own things.

You only have to worry about getting a perfectly straight edge one time. After that you can joint a 6 foot long board perfect every time with no hassle and using any plane that has the sole square to one edge, even a block plane.

Just some boards screwed together into a Giant Shoot Board.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/jointer1.jpg

I like to leave just a bit of open space where the track and the main part meet so that small pieces will drop down thru instead of possibly creating a hump in the edge.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/jointer2.jpg

Maybe its to simple a solution to a sometimes difficult task, but its easy for me.

respectfully

Jr.

[Jeff Horton]

Maybe its to simple a solution t.....


And too cheap. No gloating if you don't add to your credit card balance. ;) :rolleyes:

[Don Baer]

Thanks JR you just saved me a bundle and it quite too.:D

[Maurice Metzger]

Mini version (4 feet long) - not much to look at:

47353

Maurice

[harry strasil]

Good Show, Maurice I like it.

[Andrew Homan]

You only have to worry about getting a perfectly straight edge one time. After that you can joint a 6 foot long board perfect every time with no hassle and using any plane that has the sole square to one edge, even a block plane.


Hi Jr,
I love the idea of using long-grain shooting boards, too. However, in order to make one, I would still use a long plane (like my #7). I'm not sure whether you are refering to Robert's threads about choosing planes to set up shop, and which jointer, etc., but as I understand it, Robert's question doesn't only relate to jointing -- it relates to what planes are needed for dimensioning boards by hand. For flattening the face of a board, the long-grain shooting board isn't going to help. So, while it speeds up the process of squaring edges, it's still a long way from helping with all the tasks for which a #7 or #8, or equivalent (or longer) woodie would be used.

I'm aware that it is _possible_ to dimension boards with a shorter plane (with or without the shoot board) but it begs the question: why would one do this when the long trying/jointing planes are readily available?

Andy

[Chris Barton]

Nice post Jr! I find myself using my new LV BU plane to do just what you describe in this post.

[Doug Shepard]

Works real good for beveled edges too, though this one wont do 6'
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=28401&d=1135817717

[John Headley]

Thanks for the tip. It gives me an idea to modify the one (pic below) I made several years ago for the router. I have a small shop and needed a way to joint long boards and it was the only solution I came up with at the time. I can make the lower level board removable so I can use a hand plane on the highly figured boards that are prone to tear out when using a router. I will probably end up using a hand plane more than the router on the jig just for the pure enjoyment vs a noisy power router. Thanks for sharing.

http://www.woodworking-galleries.org/pp/data/500/2005_misc_007.jpg

[harry strasil]

Andrew, I was referring to edge jointing for glue ups. Sorry about the misunderstanding.

[Andrew Homan]

I was referring to edge jointing for glue ups. Sorry about the misunderstanding.

I understand now; I think that the questions about which "jointer" to get, coming from someone who is dimensioning boards by hand, are actually asking: "Which long plane should I get for jointing edges AND flattening boards." Although now I see your point, in relation to all the talk about the edge-trimming block plane: make an edge-jointing shoot-board rather than buy an edge-trimming plane. I think it's one thing to imply that a jointer plane is unnecessary, and another thing altogether to imply that the edge-jointing plane is unnecessary! If I had to choose to go without one (and indeed I do, currently), it would be the latter.
-Andy

[Steve Beadle]

Thanks, Harry, for showing us a very workable alternative!
A couple of questions: The first time one uses such a shooting board, would it be advisable to run the plane along the straightedge without a workpiece in place, in order to establish the slight lip on the straightedge which results when the margin between the blade and the side of the plane runs along the straightedge?
Also, when you place the workpiece on the shooting board and clamp it in place, do you just eyeball it for placement, or would you butt the non-straight edge of the workpiece against a block of wood that was itself butted up against the lower lip of the straightedge?
I hope I have explained myself adequately.
Thanks!
Steve

[Jerry Palmer]

Easiest quickest way to place the workpiece would be so that the entire length of the unplaned edge hung over the top piece of the jig ever so slightly. That would maximize the width left of the board. If you wanted to adjust the final edge so it more closely follow the grain of the wood, you could make adjustments accordingly, so long as every place along the length was exposed to the plane as it is run against the fence.

I've used a similar set-up for getting a straight edge on work pieces on the table saw as well as for making tapered cuts without all the figuring needed to use a traditional taper jig. Simply mark out the taper, set it on the jig so that the layout line runs along the edge of the jig with the waste side hanging over. Adjust the rip fence so the jig can be slid along it with the blade cutting immediately adjacent to the other edge of the jig and make the cut.

[Ben Grunow]

I was wondering what a shooting board was. Thanks Harry, I have learned something useful today because of you.

[Jake Darvall]

I think thats great Harry. And always enjoy seeing others workshops and tools.

I like with grain shooting boards too. I use an old woodie jack. Easy to square up the sides being wood uno. The planes kept locked at 90 degrees the whole way. less wobbling about even with a fenced jointer on the edge.

I see the advantage in only needing a small plane.....but how did you get the reference edge straight to begin with ? ....just ripped from table saw ? .... as you know that accuracy will transfer to your work in the shoot......plenty of times, I agree thats fine, but some would say thats not accurate enouth........suppose it depends what the works for. For doors, for me thats too accurate to begin with :o :D

[harry strasil]

I used a long transitional jointer plane and checked by eye and then with a straight edge Jake, as I recall. the rebate on the cross pieces were cut on the bandsaw and then my first prototype tenon router was used to make sure they were true to the the top side.

[Maurice Metzger]

Junior, your design is much better, I'm copying it this morning:

47474

Ought to call you Jeremiah Johnson, leading the way in the wilderness...

Maurice

[harry strasil]

Jeremiah Johnson, when my kids were young and after watching that movie they wanted to use my house thongs for snow shoes so they could play Mountain Man, and they would probably have worked for the kids too, I wear size 14's.:)

[Jake Darvall]

Ta Harry.

Have you got any pictures handy of that tranisitional ? ..... don't go out of your way though. Just curious.

I've got an old one, whose wooden body needs replacing.Thinking of how long I should make the new body...... or maybe do something different with it.

[harry strasil]

Jake its a Stanley 34, 26 inches long

[Jake Darvall]

Thanks Harry. Appreciate that.