Gripper System, Anyone using them???

[Jim Hoelzel]

HI All.

I am going to be ripping some 1/4" thick stock. What Gripper system do you use? What accessories do you suggest I get?

Thanks in advance!

Jim

[David Giles]

Are you ripping 1/4" strips from thicker stock? The standard gripper will work. Two would be better. There is a plate that lowers to the table to keep the gripper level with the wood surface. I don't remember if that is standard or not. It attaches to the gripper side.

[Jim Hoelzel]

Yeah, I am actually making an inlay from 13/16" stock to fill 1/4" dado's.

The pieces are only about 24"'s long, think I will still need two Grippers?

[Bartee Lamar]

I have two. Get one with all the accessories and one basic.

[Blaine Harrison]

For a 24" rip, I don't think you'll need two Grr-rippers. Two would be nice, but not required.

I use only one and get the piece started through the cut, then use the Grrr-ripper when the piece is over the front of the table.

I think I need to clarify something David Giles said. If your stock is wider than 1/4" (not thicker), then you can use the side leg for additional stability. I would be hesitant, even with the Grr-ripper, to rip something much thinner than about 1-1 1/2" or so into 1/4" strips. I'd probably use the bandsaw, then plane to final width to get rid of the blade marks.

Blaine

[Don Baer]

I'd at least use one behind the blade to prevent the pieces from becoming missiles. DAMHIKT.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

OK I'll bite, whats a Gripper?

Greg

[Glenn Clabo]

It's great tool used to keep the digits out of the way of spinning blades and wood from flying around.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3761&d=1072495491

p.s. - Met and married DRLOML in Kingston...nice place!

[Jim Hoelzel]

Okay, ran to the local Wood Craft and picked up the advanced one(only one they had on hand). Going out to put the thing together, guy at store said it is a monster???

Will post results of my new toy later tonight.

Thanks All!

Jim

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jim,
They are a bit pricey, but they are also effective.

I have two of the basic models. I use them to "leap frog" the piece as I am feeding it. This company also makes the plastic MJ Splitter, but I prefer to have a splitter that is made from metal.
-Jeff:)

[scott spencer]

I've got a Grr-ripper and love it. I tend to use just the basic section without the side supports, but I use it on the TS, jointer and router table. Nice safety tool.

[Doug Shepard]

If anyone's interested, I dont know whether this price can be bettered elsewhere or not, but I got an email from Woodpecker's with this weeks specials. I already have the basic version so will probably pass for now, but here it is:


Gripper (Advanced)

Part # Sale Price eCLUB Price SAVE Coupon Code
GR200 $69.95 $59.95 10 G10
http://www.woodpeck.com/gripper.html (http://www.woodpeck.com/gripper.html)

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/broadcast_gripr.jpg (http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?t=ckruoybab.0.97fzcwbab.grqlxsbab.19131&ts=S0203&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodpeck.com%2Fgripper.html)


http://www.woodpeck.com/media/broadcast_grhandle.jpg (http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?t=ckruoybab.0.97fzcwbab.grqlxsbab.19131&ts=S0203&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodpeck.com%2Fgripper.html)

Gripper Handle Bridge Kit
The Gripper Handle Set makes a great idea even better. Installing this pair of handle bridges eliminates the need to reposition the handle every time the fence is moved. Better stability, less hassle.

Part # Sale Price eCLUB Price SAVE Coupon Code
GRHB-10 $12.95 $10.95 $2 G2

http://www.woodpeck.com/gripper.html (http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?t=ckruoybab.0.97fzcwbab.grqlxsbab.19131&ts=S0203&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodpeck.com%2Fgripper.html)

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Jim
A few weeks ago I was cutting strips of ¼” – 55” long on TS and I posted it with pictures.

You can see it here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=41790

Hope it helps

niki

[Jesse Cloud]

Its my favorite safety tool. I just do not rip anything small on the ts without the gripper. I would want two for a 24 inch cut, so I could leapfrog them and always have the stock held down with at least one.

Having said all that, I would still probably use the bandsaw for a 1/4 strip.

Remember, if it doesn't feel safe, then it probably isn't!

[Aaron Beaver]

I have one and love it, need to buy another so I can have two and use both when cutting longer pieces of wood. Works great for those thin 1/4" pieces you need.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I've cut a boatload of 1/4" strips out of 3/4 and 4/4 material using the basic Gripper on my TS. Most of my pieces are 18" long or so, but for longer cuts I start the feed by hand, then use the Gripper to guide the back end of the cut through the saw.

The Gripper really made a difference in the consistency of my rip cuts. I regularly go from TS to glue-up with no further edge treatment. I was seldom able to do that using push sticks, and for thin stuff, push sticks are too scary for my tastes. (I've lived through a few nasty kickbacks with push sticks, and have had none with the Gripper.)

[Hoa Dinh]

Hi Jim,

Don't forget the splitter. The stock splitter, and most aftermarket splitters, can't be used with the GRR-Ripper.

You need a low splitter.

[Keith Outten]

If you search our archives you will find an old thread where we put together a bulk buy of Grippers. I can't remember how many we purchased but it was a load, Jackie had boxes of Grippers all over the place getting ready to ship them. As I recall we got a super price for the bulk buy as well, I got both of mine in the bulk buy.

MicroJig now has a metal splitter, there is a recent thread here announcing the release of the new model just a few days ago or maybe it was an article / review that was written.

[Mike Kelly]

Best money spent on tools so far. I have two for use on router table and especially table saw. Get one with all options and one plain and enjoy. Search some of the links here for a lot of info on this tool.

[glenn bradley]

The thing that has held me back is that they require the removal of your guard. that being said, most narrow cuts do. I've adapted to cutting thin strips off a wider board keeping the wide piece against the fence. This obviously only works if your ripping a small piece of a large one. I'll be very interested to follow the thread and learn from those that use them.

P.s. Present owners, how do you handle the guard situation or do the Grr-Rippers remove the need for one on a given cut?

[Hoa Dinh]

Present owners, how do you handle the guard situation or do the Grr-Rippers remove the need for one on a given cut?

To use the GRR-Ripper: (1) no bladeguard (2) no "anti-kickback" pawl (3) the splitter has to be low enough for the GRR-Ripper to go over (see the photo attached to my post above).

You will be ripping thin (narrower than 1.5") pieces so the danger of the board pinching the blade is small. With a splitter behind the blade and the GRR-Ripper holding the board down on either side of the blade, the chance of the workpiece getting caught by the trailing edge of the blade is eliminated.

Your hands will be directly over the blade. But in between, instead of the normal bladeguard, is about 3" of plastic. Even when your hands slip, if they hold on to the GRR-Rippers, there is no chance that your hands can hit the blade.

If the GRR-Ripper is used correctly, there is no chance of kickback, nor is there any chance that your hands can wander into the blade. Of course common sense and caution are still the best safety devices.

Many folks don't agree with me, mainly because the hands are directly over the blade without any bladeguard. In fact, there is a bladeguard in the operator's hand: the GRR-Ripper itself.

[Sam Chambers]

Jim, I have 2 Grippers. They're both the "basic" models, but one has the handle bridge. I never use my table saw without them, and they're also handy for the router table, band saw and jointer. Get the DVD that Micro Jig offers - it'll give you lots of ideas.

As other have mentioned, you still need a splitter, and the stock setup (as well as most aftermarket units) won't work with the Gripper. I use Micro Jig's splitter, and have been happy with it so far.

[Bartee Lamar]

Another use of them is when I am doing dados in plywood. I find I can get better consistent preasure across the dado blade and end up with more consistent actual dado depth.

[jeremy levine]

Woodshop demos has a nice bit on the gripper
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/nprod-14.htm

[Doug Shepard]

Jim, I have 2 Grippers. They're both the "basic" models, but one has the handle bridge....

Sam, what's your opinion of the handle bridge? Worth the extra $$$ ? Do find yourself reaching for the one with the handle bridge first, more than the other one?

[Art Davis]

I have the delux model, and have for some time; however, I am still concerned about having my hand directly over the blade. Sure, as Hoa said, there is plastic between your hand and the blade, but that seems a bit insecure to me. The conventional blade gard is clear and you can see the blade. With the Grriper, you can't really see it because it is in front and then under. That said, I have had no problems ripping 1/4" strips without the splitter. Maybe I've been lucky. Bottom line is, I am not really comfortable using this tool. Probably the system Niki alluded to is the safest, but I haven't worked up the energy yet to tackle it.
Art

[Sam Chambers]

Sam, what's your opinion of the handle bridge? Worth the extra $$$ ? Do find yourself reaching for the one with the handle bridge first, more than the other one?
Doug, I often reach for the one with the handle bridge first. I have mine set up at an angle, making it easier to provide force against the fence as well as through the blade. I think it's worth the extra money, and the next time I'm at the store that carries them, I'll probably get another.

[Joe Unni]

I'll take the opposing view.

I tried one once (not sure which model) at a ww class and found it to be extremely dangerous...for me. I found that it took a fair amount of downward pressure to get it to grip and as I'm only 5'3", I couldn't maintain that pressure as my reach increased. So not only was my hand directly over the blade, but while on tip toes and off balance my whole forearm was above the blade during follow through. Very scary for me. During a few cuts, the work piece stopped and the gripper began sliding forward forcing MORE downward pressure. On one of these cuts the sliding caused the keeper piece (the piece next to the fence) to begin to kick out and pinch the blade. So I had to hold this position while the instructor turned off the saw. By the way he wouldn't let me cut any other way even after he saw my difficulty.

Overall the raised panel door class was pretty cool, but I can tell you that I won't be getting a Gripper any time soon.

I've gone back to my tried and true way(s) to cut thin strips. Either a 1/4" push shoe (similar to the Saw Guide) and splitter or a piece of 2x4 with a notch cut out pushing the work piece and the 2x4 over the blade. In that regard it's similar to the Gripper without relying on the rubber grippers - the notch does the work. And I can make it any length I want to eliminate the off balance cut.

That's been my experience.

Good luck,
-joe

[Hoa Dinh]

On one of these cuts the sliding caused the keeper piece (the piece next to the fence) to begin to kick out and pinch the blade

Hey Joe,

Did you use a splitter for these cuts?

-- Hoa

[Joe Unni]

Hey Joe,

Did you use a splitter for these cuts?

-- Hoa

Nope. The instructors saw didn't have one.

-joe

[John Lucas]

I have two and use them all the time. Joe, have you considered adding the wood piece that screws onto the back bar and catches onto the wood you are cutting. It toally eliminates any sliding.

[Hoa Dinh]

Nope. The instructors saw didn't have one.

-joe

So, IMHO, there were two problems:

1. The GRR-Rippers slipping was caused by "dirty" pads. The pads should have been cleaned regularly with denatured alcohol.

2. A low-profile splitter should have been used.

As stated, common sense and caution are still the best safety devices.

In addition, the saw should have been equipped with a knee switch.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I'll take the opposing view...

...I'm only 5'3", I couldn't maintain that pressure as my reach increased. So not only was my hand directly over the blade, but while on tip toes and off balance my whole forearm was above the blade during follow through. Very scary for me...

You bring up a good point Joe...I'm 6' 1" or so, but I can see how being shorter would be a disadvantage when trying to use the Gripper. Even at my height, I've very aware of the forearm over the blade thing (I watch that aspect of the cut very closely), so I can see why you'd not be comfortable using the Gripper.

And yeah, a splitter (I use the MJ splitters), while not absolutely essential, sure do make for a safer and cleaner cut IMHO. With or without the Gripper.