Question re:countertop backsplash

[Dwayne Hunt]

I am going to be installing backsplashes (I think they are called back splashes -the 4" strip from the counter top up the wall) on our new kitchen countertops. I was planning on gluing them to the wall and then caulking where they meet. My question is this, does the backsplash set on the counter or about 1/8" up to leave room for caulking? I've seen it done both ways but which is the right way?

[Chris McDowell]

Dwayne, first off it depends on what kind of countertop material you are using. I will assume laminate. I don't do much laminate, but I do solid suface. I have never seen anybody leave a gap and just fill it with silicone. I usually set my backsplash on the deck of the countertop and run a bead between the intersecting points.
I have even seen some people run a small bead at the back of the deck and set the backsplash down on it, then run the bead where they intersect. Either of those methods will be fine. The main thing is to seal it off thouroughly so you don't have liquids running under your backsplash and down the backs of your cabinets and wall. Good luck.

Chris

[Steve Clardy]

Small bead of caulking under the splash, then set it on the countertop

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I do laminate tops as a part time thing. Good advice from the two guys above me.

If your walls are very crooked, as typical when you get near the corner of a wall, I would also recommend thickening the backsplash along the top edge with a 1/4" x 3/4" strip. This will make the backsplash is about 1" thick at the top only. This will give you something to scribe and easily grind off with a belt sander. Makes for a tight and clean installation.

But if your installing tiles above the backsplash, you may get away with not having to do this step. But if you're installing wallpaper or just paint...

cheers, Jeff :)

[Jamie Buxton]

I'm not a counter guy, hence my question...

My experience is that caulk doesn't bond well to laminate. I'm surprised that you guys expect caulk to hold everything together. Isn't there some need for mechanical fastening between the counter and the splash?

[Chris McDowell]

You'll notice if you look closely at my post I said to use silicone. On all my backsplashes I'll put a few dabs of hot glue to hold the backsplash to the wall while the silicone dries. I run silicone on the backside where it contacts the wall, the top of the backsplash, and between the backsplash and the deck of the countertop.
Like I said most of my work is solid surface which is a little different, but you might be surprised at the holding power of silicone. It is pretty substantial once fully cured.

[Jim Becker]

I didn't use a backsplash when I did our kitchen a few years ago...the counter goes to the wall and the tile on the wall comes down to within a "grout line" distance of the top. The gap is filled with color coordinated caulk that matches the grout on the tile. The downside to this is that the joint is harder to keep clean...

[Steve Clardy]

When I said caulk, I meant silicone caulk.

Actually, when I do a cabinet job, I try to steer the customer away from lamanite back splashes, due to them being glued onto the walls.
They do eventually come loose I've found.
I try to get them to tile the wall, just if even one row of tile.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jim brings up a very good point. With most kitchens I do these days, I do not recommend a small backsplash. They are somewhat dated now. Instead, I recommend tiling the entire wall space between the countertop and the underside of the wall cabinets. Looks much cleaner and elogant to most.

-Jeff :)

[Dwayne Hunt]

Thanks for your help! I follow your advice.

[Bruce Wrenn]

We pocket screww our back splashs to counter tops. After sanding and fitting top, simply pocket screw back splashs to top. Caulk joint .