Pen Turning

[Daniel Heine]

Hello,

I am still fairly new to the turning world, and have a question/problem. I turned a pen for my wife a few weeks ago, sanded it to 4000 grit, then sealed and buffed it with Hut friction polish. I used Bocote, and it was very nice whn done. Last night I saw it laying on the table, picked it up, and was suprised to find the surface was rough, and I could feel the grain of the wood very distinctly. How do avoid this from happening again? Should I sand, seal, dry overnight, and repeat?

Thanks for all of your help.

Happy Turning,
Daniel Heine

[Don Baer]

Daniel,
Hut is a wax and while it will make the pen shine it won't protect the pen from the seat of human contact. While I don't do pens I always use some sort of finish to protect the wood then it you want to make it shinyer then you can use hut. Some folks use CA glue as a finish, some use it mixed with other stuff, I'm sure some pen turners can give you some suggestions as to there favorite finish.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Daniel

You are about to get 10 different recipes so let me be the first to give you my finish procedure.

1) Sand with the lathe running fairly slow 500 RPM. As you proceed up the grits reverse the lathe at about 320 grit, this bend the fiber the opposite direction and cuts them off. Return to normal rotation. Sand to about 600 grit. On stabilized wood or very very hard wood higher grits may be called for but on your bocote sanding over 600 probably did not add benefit. Between each grit use the next grit to sand the pen long ways by hand.
2) Seal with a 50/50 mixture of Deft Wiping Laquer and Laquer thinner. Buff this dry with paper towel and lathe running at higher speed, 2000+RPM.
3) Use EEE polish as dircted on the product. THis is a wax based polish with tripoli mixed in.
4) Apply friction polish of your choice, ie. Hut or Mylands as directed with a cotten towel (piece of old t-shirt)
5) Let pen rest for at least an hour before assembly.
6) after assembly apply Renaisance Wax.
The shine of a pen can be restored with Ren wax and in fact it seems to last longer with additional applications over time.

CA finish is shiny and durable but I think it looks like plastic. That said my only regular pen customer requests the CA finish every time.

Practice and experimentation will find the finish you like and are comfortable appling in your shop.

Frank

[Bernie Weishapl]

Daniel I go thru the normal sanding, etc. and then EEE. After that I use Deft Spray Lacquer and put on 3 coats. I let that dry for a few days. It seems to hold up real well. I am using a pen that has been in use for about 6 months and still looks good.

[Daniel Heine]

I'm afraid that I'm showing my lack og knowledge, but what is EEE?

Thanks,
Dan

[Bob Noles]

I'm afraid that I'm showing my lack og knowledge, but what is EEE?

Thanks,
Dan

Dan

Here is a link to the product http://www.pennstateind.com/store/pksweee.html

[Vaughn McMillan]

I'll toss in a vote for using CA. I've used Mylands, wipe on poly, and lacquer, but I personally (and it seems my customers so far) prefer the plastic look of a high-gloss CA finish, and it's hard to beat for durability.

Here's my current finish routine. For all I know I'm doing something terribly wrong, but the finished product works for me:

Sand at about 2000 rpm to 320 or 400 with black wet or dry paper. (Watch out on light woods and don't hit the bushings.) On coarser grits, I finish each grit with the lathe turned off, and sand with the grain.
Sand at about 2000 rpm from 1500 to 12000 grit Micro Mesh.
Spinning at 1000 rpm or so, apply medium viscosity CA, using a piece of wax paper or a little mini ziplock bag (got plenty of them little suckers).
Let CA dry and hour or so, then repeat step 3 above.
Using 400 grit wet or dry paper, lightly sand at about 2000 rpm until surface is absolutely smooth. I'll use 320 to start of the CA surface is particularly rough de to sloppy application. (Don't sand through the CA. If you do, then go back to step 3.)
Sand at about 2000 rpm from 1500 to 12000 grit Micro Mesh.
Buff with White Diamond compound.I use the same routine for acrylic pens, without the CA steps.

[Mike Jory]

Hi Daniel, I saw the wood you were using and my first comment is; I hope you're using a resperator to sand and finish your pens!
As was said above, here comes a bunch of finishes. There's even forums for just finishes! I've had good luck in varying degrees with three basic methods using A- several coats of friction polish, B- a wiped on lacquer, and C- CA glue.

Although I'm still perfecting this; For the last 5 pens and couple letter openers I've used CA. After sanding to about 3-4000 grit, I apply thin or medium CA directly to the blank with a small bit of paper towel, wiping in one direction only once. After a short time drying, very light sanding with 4-8000 Micro Mesh. I can do this over and over, 5 or 6 times to build up a shinny, very robust finish that I know will last. Each time going higher in grit.

Another very easy finish is; after sanding, apply a couple coats of sanding sealer, then rub on EEE, then several coats of friction polish -allowed to set or dry a little between application. I've done this so much I can speed through it. Then I set it aside to sit between coats and do something else. With to mandrils I can start another pen. I find the more time I spend with several coats of friction polish the longer the finish will hold up. Bit not for ever. CA and lacquer will hold up indefinately.
Good Luck, Mike