Kitchen Update #2 (w/10 pics)

[David Eisan]

Hello Everyone,

Last weeks update just showed 45 cut pieces of melamine sitting on my work bench. This week I started putting the cabinet boxes together.

Here is my version of box building 101 for those who might be interested,

All box parts are 5/8" melamine, the boxes will have full face frames and the ends of all boxes will have panels applied. This allowed me to face screw the carcass parts together in almost every case. There was only one place I didn't face screw and I will show that later.

I cannot stand filled nail holes in face frames, plus nails just don't hold too well in melamine. The first operation is to make pocket holes along the outside front edge of the top, bottom and side panels in order to attach the face frame later. This time I borrowed a benchtop Kreg Foreman pocket hole machine from our demo inventory at work. If you don't happen to work at a tool store, you use the $29 version to make the pocket holes for the face frame like I did on my parents kitchen, it just takes longer.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild1.jpg

There are no pocket holes in the bottoms of the uppers (does that make sense?). The bottom edge of the face frames will be attached with biscuits on the uppers.

Since I am working alone, I use a couple of home made right angle blocks and a quick grip to hold one side of the cabinet up off the concrete workbench,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild2.jpg

Now I use another of right angle block to hold the two parts together while I mark a 5/16" line in from the edge of the sides,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild3.jpg

The little Incra measuring/marking gauge shown in the photo has been one of the best things I ever bought. At the time I though $30 was a lot for a piece of plastic, but adjustable in 1/32" increments that hold, worth every penny and used in almost every project I make.

Yawn, move the right angle block and screw the side to the top,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild4.jpg

Ayup, you guessed it, move the RA blocks to hold the other side in place, mark 5/16" in, drill with countersink and run in 1.75", #8 screws.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild5.jpg

Better shot of the helpers,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild6.jpg

Bored yet? Lay the back on, mark 5/16" in and screw the back on,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild7.jpg

I had been using a Lee Valley tapered bit and four flute countersink, but I found it clogged up. I switched to a Dimar (Canadian brand, similar to Amana I think) two flute carbide countersink with tapered bit and it is light years better.

Here is the one place where I did not face screw. Where the side of one cabinet is exposed in the height transition to over the stove, I didn't want to put a raised panel, I didn't think it would look right. The face frames, doors/drawers and side panels are being painted white, so I don't think the only plain melamine showing it will stand out (it is really a very small area, 12"12" or so). The bottom two shelves of this cabinet are fixed with two #10 biscuits each. Looks a lot more complicated that it is,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild8.jpg

Notice the home made RA blocks once again.

In all the places where shelves were screwed in, I cut helper boards that I clamped in place to ensure the same height from side to side and from cabinet to cabinet,

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuild9.jpg

With the above cabinet, the left side will have three drawers, that is why I didn't worry about visible screws for the shelf on the right side.

I opted for fixed shelves. When I lived with my parents for 20 years in the same house, my Mom never moved one of her adjustable shelves. And where I am now, the shop foreman didn't even know our current kitchen had adjustable shelves. So, I did the easy thing, I measured where our shelves are now in the current yucky cabinets, and that is exactly where they will be in the spankin new cabinets.

Here are the 7 boxes done (one without a back on it at this point),

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cbuilddone.jpg

Next, onto the face frames.

Thanks for looking,

David.

Every Neighbourhood Has One, In Mine I'm Him.

[Corey Hallagan]

Looking good David! I wish I had the time to do what you are doing but I just don't have the time nor do I have the room in my shop with a vehicle in their to build the cabinets and store them while in the different building stages. So I am buying my cabinets but I sure enjoy seeing folks build these from ground up like this. Great photo work. I like your shop right angle helpers. Are you going to make the doors yourself? What do you think you will have in these cabs when you are done?

Corey

[Art Mulder]

Are you going to make the doors yourself? What do you think you will have in these cabs when you are done?


Corey... They're "kitchen" cabinets. What do you think he's going to have in them when finished? I'm betting on plates, pans, food... :cool::cool:

As to making the doors himself... just clock on Dave's name, and then look at some of the other threads that Dave has started, and you'll see the kitchen that he made for his parents.

...art

[Bartee Lamar]

What kind of screws do you use for the melamine ? I have always been worried about being able to get a good screw bond in particle board. You seem to have it perfected.

Look forward to seeing the progress

Thanks

[Corey Hallagan]

Corey... They're "kitchen" cabinets. What do you think he's going to have in them when finished? I'm betting on plates, pans, food... :cool::cool:

As to making the doors himself... just clock on Dave's name, and then look at some of the other threads that Dave has started, and you'll see the kitchen that he made for his parents.

...art

Good one Art! Yes I remember now the other thread. He does very nice work for sure. I would love to do the same thing (only I wouldn't make the doors myself) but when I build my 3 shop cabinets I barely had room for those for a couple weeks! I start tearout this weekend.

Corey

[Tyler Howell]

Thanks David,
Very informative.
Picture Police Seal of Approval.

[Jim Becker]

What kind of screws do you use for the melamine ? I have always been worried about being able to get a good screw bond in particle board.

Theoretically, one should use Confirmat screws for this type of assembly.

-----

David...nice pictorial! Those are going to be great cabinets! I'm looking forward to the next installments...

[Rob Diz]

Thanks for posting the pictures. I look at it as a bit of inspiration.

I have a bit more 3/4 ply to cut to size (and then route/dado) for my kitchen cabinets before I finish and construct (Euro), but still found the tutorial very helpful.

Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures.

[David Eisan]

Are you going to make the doors yourself? What do you think you will have in these cabs when you are done?
Corey

I think about $1200-$1400 all said and done. That includes melamine for the carcases, poplar for the face frames and rail and stile, 1/2" MDF for raised panels, baltic birch ply for drawers, all hardware including full extension self closing drawer slides, 35mm hinges, knobs, feet, paint and countertop.

Plus, I know these will be much better made and with higher quality hardware than anything I could have bought for several times that amount.

Thanks,

David.

[David Eisan]

What kind of screws do you use for the melamine ? I have always been worried about being able to get a good screw bond in particle board.

I am only using 1.75" #8 screws and they seem to hold well. I think what makes a difference is the tapered bit with countersink. There are no threads of the screw in the first piece of melamine and I seem to get a good catch on the second piece with almost 1.25" of thread. No stripped screw holes, no split melamine...

Thanks,

David.

[Corey Hallagan]

That is excellent including the counter tops. Nice work David. Looking forward to seeing you finish these!

corey