A little glue up advice please!

[Kurt Rosenzweig]

Hey guys! If you had to cut a piece apart for hollowing then rejoin for a seamless appearance how would you go about it? I'm guessing cutting with a band saw but after that would one glue be better then another? I'm not having real great success with CA. The wood is light in color and the CA is leaving a black seam that sticking out like a sore thumb. Any help appreciated!

[Frank Kobilsek]

Kurt
There is a story in the AAW Journal (current issue) were a gentleman saws the balnk in half on the bandsaw then basicaly makes two bowls which he glues together to form his hollowform. He used yellow wood glue. Nothing fancy but spent alot of time making sure the joint area saw very flat.
Frank

[Andy Hoyt]

Kurt - I've been fighting gluelines a fair amount lately and have determined that (for me anyway) there are just two solutions.

Intermix different species to obfuscate the line.
Add an embellishment at the line to hide it - such as burning, texturing, carving, or painting.I read the article Frank references and it very carefully skirts the issue.

[Richard Madison]

Kurt, Any yellow wood glue should work well. The important part is getting the glue joint surfaces flat, flat, flat, so they meet with essentially zero gaps. In building a segmented piece (made from a series of segmented rings) on the lathe, the glue surface of the last ring is turned flat and perpendicular to the spindle axis, and then sanded flat with a sanding board. It is then ready to have the next ring glued in place with essentially zero joint gaps. Should work the same with two half bowls.

[Dennis Peacock]

You can also use Elmers White Glue. It holds just as well and it's clear when dry, unlike yellow wood glue. I use a lot of white glue any more and I don't get "glue creep" with white glue. Just me 2¢ worth on glue. :D