Marking/cutting gauge

[Derek Cohen]

This design is taken from a Woodjoy gauge I have admired. I guess imitation is a sincere form of flattery.

I made all the parts with the exception of the Veritas knob. The blade is an ex-spadebit, V-edged so that it can cut in either direction.

The construction is brass, Tasmanian Blackwood (top) and Jarrah (below).

The fence is reversable to mark curved edges. The face is 3".

Thanks for looking

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Dunn]

Just beautiful. Almost to pretty to use. I'm sure it will become a family heirloom.

[Maurice Metzger]

Very nice Derek! I really like that chunk o' blade.

Maurice

[Dave Anderson NH]

Very nicely done Derek. I like it.

[Hans Braul]

Derek, this past week I've been struggling with a marking gauge that just doesn't cut it, if you take my meaning, and I lust after yours. I need something that cuts rather than tears the fibres. You've got me thinking that this might be my next project. I can't tell from the pics. Do you have the blade flat on the inside (the face toward the guide) and ground/honed on the outside? If so, wouldn't that tend to push the guide away from the work piece? I would think you'd want something that is either neutral or tends to pull towards the piece.

Thanks for posting this.

Your advice is appreciated.

Hans

[Keith Outten]

G'day Derek,

You guys are killin me with the pics of your custom tools...you, Dave Anderson and a few others who have been making all those beautiful shop tools. I have to find the time to try my hand at it soon.

Very Nice!

.

[Joel Moskowitz]

Hans,
I am willing to bet the problem you are having is caused by the way you are using the gauge rather than the gauge itself. the problem is caused because you are resting the pin on the wood - this doesn't work.

here is how you use a marking gage:

1) holding the board with one hand and the gauge in the other place set the fence against the side of the work.
2) - this is the most important part. Tilt the gauge so that the long corner of the beam rests on the wood.

3) pressing in so that the fence is tight, and down so that the beam side is firm against the wood TILT the gauge down so that the pin just engages the wood.

4) you should have tilted the gauge so that the you can easily see the pin.

5) Push the gauge away from you so that the pin (Which is tilted is at angle so that it glides rather than digs in.) since the force of the downward pressure is taken by the corner of the beam you can trivially adjust the pressure on the pin - heavy for a deep mark, light for a shallow mark. TILTING the pin into the work is the secret of control. the actual pressure on the pin is small so it won't catch - the pressure agaisnt the fence and beam is much higher.

6) at the end of the board stop, tilt the gauge the other way, reverse direction, and finish the last bit starting for off the board.

7) after you are done scribing following the line with a sharp pencil will give you an easier to see line.

I aplogize if dividing the instruction up into steps my seem patronizing but it's a usefull skill and I don't know how else to explain it without drawings - which I can't do just now.
traditional marking out doesn't use a cutting gauge or even a particulary sharp pin for two reasons, all you need is a dent in the wood to catch the pencil or chisel and with a dullish pin you won't follow the grain of the wood. A pin that is engaged enough to pull the fench in is cutting a mark way too deep.
but the most important reason is that after you are done a cutting gauge will leave ugly lines that will catch finish and become prominent so you don't want them in visible areas. In the old days having visible marking lines on exteriors was considered crappy work, On drawers it was ok - nowadays unfortunately the scribe lines are supposed to show that the work was done by "hand"

I have used the same gauge for about 20 years - never ever sharpened it, or had trouble with it wandering or anything.

joel

[Hans Braul]

Joel,

Very useful feedback - thanks. I think you've hit the nail on the head. I was pushing too hard on the pin. Time to head down to the shop and practice your method!

Definitely not patronizing, just very helpful

Thanks again

Hans

[Gary Herrmann]

Derek, that tool is way too beautiful for you to use on wood.


Better send it to me, so you don't agonize over marring it in any way...


Nicely executed. I like the idea of the curved fence.

[George Springer]

Damn it must be nice to have time to make great looking tools! I get to spend my weekday evenings in hotels rather than in the shop. I guess it does give me time to browse the internet for great looking and functional tools, I got the woodjoy marker a couple of weeks ago and one of these days I'll probably get to use it.

Very nice work on this one however.

GS

[Alan DuBoff]

Wonderful looking marking gauge Derek, very nice.

[Derek Cohen]

"I am willing to bet the problem you are having is caused by the way you are using the gauge rather than the gauge itself. the problem is caused because you are resting the pin on the wood - this doesn't work."

Joel, I agree. One of my favourite marking gauges is a Stanley #65, which facilitates the correct cutting angle with the shape of its side (sorry, no picture to hand). Mine has the pin sharpened to a knife edge.

Interesting what you say about the desire for/against the line being present/absence over the years. Fashion.

"I can't tell from the pics. Do you have the blade flat on the inside (the face toward the guide) and ground/honed on the outside?"

Hans, the bevel is on the outside.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Joel Moskowitz]

the pin is round, equaly beveled all around. a pin is a knife with no width. and if the pin were deep enough in the cut to influence the cut it would mean that the pin is way too deep and the user isn't applying enough pressure on the side of the gauge.
THe STanley 65 is a common gauge with a squarish beam - which will work well - too wide a beam and you can't see the pin when you tilt into the work.

THe shape of the fence doesn't really matter other than a nicely shaped fence is easier to hook a finger over.

THe diagram below hopefully explains it better

[Jay Davidson]

FYI, check out Joel's great web site: Tools for Working Wood:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc

[Lars Thomas]

Derek, great work, I've added one to my list of tools to build. Lars