Safest way to rip diagonally?

[Jim Mackell]

I need to rip a piece of 2x4 somewhat diagonally. Need to end up with an 8 foot piece that is 1.5 inches wide at one end tapering down to zero at the other. What's the safest way to do this on a table saw?

[Steve Clardy]

Make a taper jig.
Do a goggle search on it.

[Lee DeRaud]

Got a straight-edge 8' long? Screw it to the 2x4 at the desired taper angle and use it to register against the fence. I've got an aluminum one I use for cutting down plywood sheets, but a piece or two of plywood or MDF would work just as well.

[tod evans]

jim, what tools do you have to work with and how accurate do you need to be? a chalkline and skillsaw works for framing, a taper jig like steve suggests will give you a much nicer cut with either a skillsaw or tablesaw..02 tod

[Jim Mackell]

OK. That makes sense. Google showed me an image and now I understand what I've seen in writing several times. Should able to take care of it tonight.

Thanks for the quick replies.;)

[Rob Diz]

I agree.

Do a search on FWW's site for taper jig. They have a really nice jig that is basically a sled. Very safe to use, and highly adaptable. I made one a few months ago. It is well thought out jig that works like a dream.

I would be very suspect of using the jigs that push against the fence, like the aluminum ones sold at many wood shops for $20. They seem a bit unsafe to me. The added advantage of the FWW jig is that you can make it to do 4 way tapers on legs if you like.

[Doug Shepard]

Lee's post makes the most sense as you're trying to end up with an 8 ft taper. The commercially available jigs or plans available aren't going to be able to cope with anything that long unless you build a really long sled for it.

[Andy Hoyt]

Jim - Not sure how close you are, but if you get in a snag, you're welcome to bring it by here.

[Frank Chaffee]

Do a search on FWW's site for taper jig. They have a really nice jig that is basically a sled. Very safe to use, and highly adaptable. I made one a few months ago. It is well thought out jig that works like a dream.
To all who may search and find this taper cutting jig in FWW (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=24155 Issue #158), I suggest you examine very closely the resultant clamping force of the arm that holds the far end of the workpiece down.

My own perception of the inadequacy of that force was shared by another reader who was published in the “letters” column of Issue #179, and to quote in part…

“Perfecting the tapering jig
“…I think, however, it would be better if the hold-down clamp were altered somewhat.

When a workpiece is clamped down by one fastener through a long clamping finger, you will get more downward pressure on the workpiece if the hold-down bolt is located as close to the workpiece as possible.”

--Guy Lautard, West Vancouver, B.C., Canada”

I think the jig is well conceived, but should not be built verbatim from the FWW article.

Frank

[Ralph Barhorst]

I would use a piece of MDF shelf material that is 8 feet long and either use hot melt glue or double sided carpet tape to attach the 2 x 4 to the MDF. Of course the 2 x 4 would be attached so that the correct taper would be cut after running it thru the table saw.