40"or 60"Excalibur slider???

[Kristian Wild]

Hi all, I'm looking for some feedback on preferences between the 40 vs. the 60 inch models of the Excalibur slider add-on for a unisaw. We're pondering this at work as the amount of sheet-goods work that we do increases. At present it's probably one third of the pieces we make. A true sliding table saw is out of the budget right now. We took measurements today and concluded that we could squeeze in the larger model with a bit of equipment repositioning. It seems logical that for the not huge increase in price you get just over 50% larger capacity. Simple decision right? Well we thought so until my boss called the rep with some final little questions and was told that he has a 40" one in stock that all of the packaging was mangled on in shipping. It has a couple of little cosmetic scratches but no real damage. AND he says we can have it for almost half price!!! So now the 60" one is more than twice the price than the 40" model... Is the 40 enough? Or is it better for handling 1/2 sheets? Thanks for any input on our conundrum!

[Chris McDowell]

Kristian, I have the smaller unit and many times wish I had the bigger one. I have been told by other users who have the 60, that they can crosscut a full 4x8 sheet with the fence in the rear position on the table. On mine I have to remove the fence and mount on the front of the table(the end that is farthest from me when standing in front of the saw) to cut anything over 30" or so wide. Not the worst thing in the world, but it can be a pain.
I would confirm that with someone official. I have only been told that by a fellow user with the 60. Other than that really my only complaint. You'll just have to decide if moving the fence around bothers you or not. For half price it makes a guy a little more open to the idea.
Chris

[Keith Outten]

I own the old 60" model Excalibur. I purchased mine to do 22.5 degree edge rips for a cabinet job years ago. If you place the fence parallel to the blade you can still slide the entire length of your models capacity and even a bit more.

Almost every table saw jig I had has been scraped since I got my slider and my saw is much safer now than ever before. I still use my panel saw to cut full sheets, then I use the slider to machine to final size since it is more accurate. I can also do cuts without the fence by clamping the job to the table which allows me to machine complex angles that are near impossible without a slider.

Get the big one if you have the room but be advised it will consume a lot of floor space in your shop. A table saw with a 60" slider on one side and a 50" table on the other is a monster.

.

[Paul B. Cresti]

I would suggest if you are even considering getting the bigger size then get it. As with all machines the bigger one will handle everything the smaller one but not vice versa. In time you may move towards a vertical panel saw, a slider or even a CNC machine so the 60" version will "bridge the gap" long enough for you to pay for its cost with increased production capacity all while setting asside money for the next jump.

[Kristian Wild]

Thanks alot everyone. I'll pass on your input to the head cheese. Kris

[Rick Christopherson]

I have the #60 and my father has the #40. If you are running a business, then you need to get the #60.

By the way, I have no idea why the instructions tell you to mount the rails where they do, but if you install them in the closer set of holes in your Unisaw, you can crosscut the full 49 inches without moving the fence to the rear. I have never moved my fence to the rear in the 11 years since I installed it.

Oh, I just figured out why they want you to install it in the furthest holes. The rails would not be sticking out into the operator area of the saw. I never thought of it before because it never bothered me. I would rather have the rail stick out than have to move the fence to the rear.

http://waterfront-woods.home.att.net/tempgraphics/Unisaw.jpg

[CPeter James]

I have the Exactor knock off with the 40" rails. I can do a 36" crosscut with the fence on the rear and about 24" on the front. If you intend to crosscut 48" stock, you really need the longer one. Once you get it set up, you can do some very accurate angle cuts with it. I put the rails back as far as I can to cut down on hip bruises. It is the perfect height to smuck you right in the hip bone.

CPeter

[Jeffrey Makiel]

One thing to note about sliders: If you have a right tilting saw, and you prefer to move your fence to the left side of the blade as to avoid trapped bevel rip cuts, you will no longer be able to do this.

One fellow poster has left his tablesaw's left wing attached, and then attached the slider to the wing. However, this setup will even take up more space if you have a small shop like me.

http://www.shoptours.org/member2/thtsexaktor.jpg

By the way, he also has a nice website with neat tips and ideas.
cheers, Jeff