dining table corner block question

[John Piwaron]

My concern is about the brackets that join the aprons on dining tables. The brackets of course are 45 degrees to the aprons and bridge the inside corners, allowing a place to put a hole to attach removable legs.

Commercially available metal brackets, and a plan I saw for wooden ones both show the ends of the brackets mounted flush to the aprons and screwed in place. Normally I like to avoid as much hardware as possible. My second concern is that screws alone don't look like enough strength. I could be wrong about that.

So I'm thinking about making a joint at either end of a wooden bracket. that is, a rib at both ends of the bracket to fit into a dado on the apron. Glued in place, no screws.

Has anyone done that?

[Dave Smith]

Hi John,

I use wood blocks screwed into the apron. I haven't had any problems so far. I drill holes in the block using a drill bit for my pocket hole jig. Set the drill press so the bit just touches the table. I always use a backer board on my drill press table. Clamp the corner block to a 45 degree block and drill your holes. I usually drill three holes. The pocket hole bit countersinks the hole and provides the correct depth for a 1 1/4" screw into a 3/4" board. Installation is a snap and it is very strong.

Your name looked familiar. I believe we met at a Kirkland sawmill tour several years ago.

Dave Smith

The rain is cool, it must be fall in Longview, WA.

[Ken Salisbury]

I have used this corner brace method for many years. I have always just use glue and a brad nailer to attach the blocks. I have never had a failure. Some times we under estimate the strength of today's glues.

[Ted Shrader]

John -

Dave's basic method is the way I go. The screws keep the rails from spreading when the leg anchor bolts are tightened. Seems your idea of a dovetail would do the same.

Following that line of thinking, what about several dovetails in the leg that attach to the aprons and blocking. Sort of how the legs on a pedestal table hook on.

Ted

[John Piwaron]

John -

Dave's basic method is the way I go. The screws keep the rails from spreading when the leg anchor bolts are tightened. Seems your idea of a dovetail would do the same.

Following that line of thinking, what about several dovetails in the leg that attach to the aprons and blocking. Sort of how the legs on a pedestal table hook on.

Ted

I had thought about that. Dovetailing the aprons and arranging the legs to have a sliding dovetail on two sides. I see two problems. First, the dovetail slots might be too close since they're on adjacent faces. Second, the legs will have to come off when the table is moved from room to room. While I won't likely be the one moving it much, I'd hope the table could last essentially forever, well, a lot longer than I will. And doing a dovetail like that might invite deliberate breakage since it's non standard. I can see some future owner getting frustrated, cursing and then yanking on them, only to find out how they're really attached once they're broken.

I think I'll be going with either screws or dovetailing the brackets and not the legs.

[John Piwaron]

Hi John,

I use wood blocks screwed into the apron. I haven't had any problems so far. I drill holes in the block using a drill bit for my pocket hole jig. Set the drill press so the bit just touches the table. I always use a backer board on my drill press table. Clamp the corner block to a 45 degree block and drill your holes. I usually drill three holes. The pocket hole bit countersinks the hole and provides the correct depth for a 1 1/4" screw into a 3/4" board. Installation is a snap and it is very strong.

Your name looked familiar. I believe we met at a Kirkland sawmill tour several years ago.

Dave Smith



I think the screws are likely to be easier. While I'm really partial to not using metal fasteners unless I need to, what you describe is much easier than cutting a dovetail at each end of the bracket. Putting a dovetail slot in the apron won't be very hard. I guess it's going to depend on my masochism level on the day I those parts together. Most of the rest of it has been cut, I've just got to make the blanks for the brackets, then shape and fit together the structure that hold the top. BTW, the top is 1 1/4" thick mesquite. The legs and aprons we're talking about are hard maple.


And you're right. I did meet you at Kirkland sawmill. I think you were the man with those great looking bowls. Kirkland didn't have anything I needed/wanted that day, but the shop in Sycamore sure did. The Hardwood Connection I think it's called. I've been back there since buying some desert ironwood. That stuff is also in my plan for the table as butterfly keys on top. I've never made those, so I think there'll be some practicing on other stock before cutting into the main event.