Festool TS owners

[Joe Jensen]

I'm considering a Festool Circular Saw for cutting plywood. I used to muscle it up on the TS, but I'm getting tired of that with the full sheets.

I have two questions for owners.
1) Do I need to buy the 8 foot rail, or is joining two shorter rails together just as good. I have to assume that the two rails don't join perfectly, but they might.
2) I don't forsee cutting anything thicker than 1" sheet goods. Is the power of the TS55 plenty, or should I buy the TS75?
Thanks...joe

[Per Swenson]

If you are primarily cutting sheet goods the 55 is fine.

No you don't need the 8' rail, order a extra 55 rail and join them.

I have joined rails so far up to 27 feet.

Works like a charm.

Per

[Dan Clark]

Joe,

I'm a happy owner of several Festool tools. Good stuff!

Regarding TS55 vs TS75, that's a tough question. I have a TS55 and love it, but I would have purchased the TS75 if it had been available.

But, I cut a lot of 2X material and would love to have the extra power and depth of the TS75. It also has a couple of nice features that the TS55 doesn't have. I'm now considering buying the TS75 anyway.

Regarding the connecting two shorter rails or buying one longer one, that's a bit easier. I have three shorter rails. I've got two connected together and one installed on my MFT1080.

If I were to do it over, I'd get the long rail - either the 106" or 118" rail. You need about 6" overhang at the starting point and about 4" or so at the ending point to cut a 4X8 sheet of plywood lengthwise. 106" rail will do it; 118" rail gives you a little flexibility.

If you cut 4X8' sheet goods lengthwise once in a while, two short rails will work fine. If you bump them, they can get out of alignment. They aren't difficult to align - just us a good 4-6' straightedge and they'lll align up nicely.

OTOH, it you cut a lot of sheet goods, I'd go with one of the long rails. A bit pricey, but they can never get out of alignment.

Two great "accessories" for the Festools saws are the MFT1080 workbench and one of the Festool dust collectors. I have the MFT1080 and the CT22 DC. They are simply EXCELLENT!

One final... When buying the TS55 or TS75, they can be ordered in a combo pack with either the MFT1080 or a Festool DC. Saves money.

Good luck with your decision.

Regards,

Dan.

[Frank Pellow]

I have the older AFT 55 saw and I really really like it. If I were buying a saw now, I would opt for the TS75 but that's because I to cut a lot of thicker wood -not just sheet goods. If you are mostly going to cut sheet goods the TS 55 will be good for you..

You don't need the longer rail., two 1400 mm rails work just fine and I have never had a problem with the joint. I have three of the 1400 mm rails and have, at times joined all three in order to rip longer borders (using Festool's "Panther" blade).

[James Biddle]

I have the older saw and the 2 rails. If I were to do it over again, I'd buy a longer rail instead of second short rail. I can't tell you how many times I want to switch back and forth from rip to crosscut on a sheet of plywood. With a long and a short, it's a non-issue. But it takes a little time to add on or take off a rail. Sounds trivial, but I'll sell you a short rail at a good price if you want.

[Mike Palmer]

I saw the TS 75 at the IWF show in Atlanta. I have the TS55 and like the feel of it better. I think the TS75 is too heavy and bulky for everyday use.

[Frank Pellow]

...
I can't tell you how many times I want to switch back and forth from rip to crosscut on a sheet of plywood. With a long and a short, it's a non-issue. But it takes a little time to add on or take off a rail. Sounds trivial, but I'll sell you a short rail at a good price if you want.
I agree that switching back and forth between rip to crosscut on a sheet of plywood is something that happens a lot. At least, it is the way that I work. But, I solve this with three shorter 1400 mm rails. Two of these are usually joined together. But I can take them apart when I want to; for instance, when I want to work offsite. I expect that moving the longer rail offsite would be difficult at times.

[James Biddle]

I agree that switching back and forth between rip to crosscut on a sheet of plywood is something that happens a lot. At least, it is the way that I work. But, I solve this with three shorter 1400 mm rails. Two of these are usually joined together. But I can take them apart when I want to; for instance, when I want to work offsite. I expect that moving the longer rail offsite would be difficult at times.

Hmmm, never though about adding a 3rd short rail Frank. That may be a better (if not cheaper) way to go, especially for transport. Thanks for the idea!

[Rick Christopherson]

I have both the long and short rails, and I like the ability to just grab the long rail when I need it. To me, I feel it is a better invesment to have one of each size instead of two that are the same size. The drawback to the 106 inch rail is that it is harder to store vertically unless you have high ceilings. If I were to get another short rail, I have considered getting the small 32" rail for doing smaller work.

[Ray Bersch]

Well, this was interesting. I don't cut the length of full sheets very often and I have thought about getting another 55" rail and joining them for those times that I do need to make a long cut. I was concerned about the connection, also - but you guys have cleared that up - I should have known that Festool would do it right! However, while I bought the saw for some longer cuts I have started using the saw so much that I was more interested in making shorter cuts and the 55 inch rail is a pain - so I just bought the 32 inch rail - what a convenience!

[Russ Massery]

I have the older ATF55. And 2 of the 55" (1400) rails they have served me well. I have used them mostly for cutting sheet goods. If going just cut sheet goods go that route. Lately I have been using it for a lot more. The 55's I think is the best bet.

[Paul Franklin]

I would highly recomend getting the 8' rail, the saw comes with the shorter rail for crosscutting. It is more accurate and quicker. I use use mine most days I would not go back to joining rails unless I did not bring the long one with me.

Regards
Paul

[Jim Becker]

You can easily join multiple shorter rails and they work no differently than the longer ones. I did buy the 8' rail, but it sees little use. As to the saw, if you work primarily with sheet goods, the 55 is going to be just fine. The times when I've found that inadequate has been when I am working with slabs which are an increasinly more common thing for me...I may upgrade to the larger saw for that reason.

[Jay Knoll]

Like Jim, I have an 8' and a 55" rail. I use the 8' a lot, breaking down plywood panels. I have the ATF 55 saw and it has worked great for me.
I work at home so I don't have portability issues with the 8' rail -- although I did have storage problems until I finally made a big mdf bracket and attached it to my double garage door. Now it just sits there until I need it.

Jay

[John Stevens]

Do I need to buy the 8 foot rail, or is joining two shorter rails together just as good. I have to assume that the two rails don't join perfectly, but they might.

I own a number of shorter rails, but I've never tried to join two of them. I own the 2700mm rail and use it for sheet goods to save setup time. If setup time is a concern of yours, I'd suggest buying the 3000mm rail, because the 2700mm rail doesn't give you much extra room at the beginning and end of an 8' cut.


I don't forsee cutting anything thicker than 1" sheet goods. Is the power of the TS55 plenty, or should I buy the TS75?

I have the older saw (ATF55) and it's got plenty of power for cutting 3/4" sheet goods and most hardwood up to 5/4". It can burn just a little when crosscutting cherry or maple >3/4" thick, but I'm not sure more power would prevent that.

Regards,

John

[Terry Flowers]

Well, there are those, like Per, who swear by joining rails, and those who have problems with it. There has been more than one thread on the Yahoo Festool Group where a number of users have complained about alignment when connection two rails resulting in a "bump" when the saw crosses the joint. I have experienced that myself. For the purpose at the time, the cut quality was adequate inspite of the slight misalignment. Some have had problems correcting the alignment even using a separate straightedge. Bottom line, if cost and storage and infrequency of cutting longer panel cuts are factors, I would stay with connecting two short rails. If I needed to cut often with an 8' rail, I would want the 118" rail to avoid connecting aggravations.

Terry

[Richard Wolf]

I have the ATF 55 and two 55" rails. It doesn't work for me. I use them to rip a straight edge on long 8/4 lumber. The saw red lights all the time and I would like an 8' rail to leave in the shop.
I guess it's time for more Festool stuff!

Richard

[Peter Pedisich]

I agree with Terry and Richard on this.

I had the bump, but could not tell from the cut quality. Bob M. gave me some good advice and the bump has gone, but If I had to do it over I would absolutely, positively, no two ways about it get the 102" rail! it's much quicker.

[Joe Jensen]

I have the ATF 55 and two 55" rails. It doesn't work for me. I use them to rip a straight edge on long 8/4 lumber. The saw red lights all the time and I would like an 8' rail to leave in the shop.
I guess it's time for more Festool stuff!

Richard

Richard, are you saying I should buy the TS 75 and an 8 ft rail?

[Richard Wolf]

Richard, are you saying I should buy the TS 75 and an 8 ft rail?

If you plan on cutting anything but ply, I would recomend the 75. The 55 will just not do it. The 8' rail is a nice size if you can leave it in the shop and not take it to the job site. They are a little delicate to throw in the back of your truck.

Richard

[Jim Dailey]

Hi Joe,

I should caution you.... the purchase of the Festool AFT 55 was what started me down the Festool road that now leads through a canyon of Systainers... it's a 12 step process... 1st you have to ....

I now have both the AFT 55 & AFT 65 , but for now just the (2) 55" rails & a 42" that comes with the MFT 1080.

This debate between smaller & larger plunge cut saws was covered at great length over on the Yahoo Festool site... I would suggest you signup & do some searching...

The trade-offs are lighter vs heavy w/more power at a higher cost both in the cost of the saw and in the cost of blades. Each has it's fans. Some like myself added the larger saw to cover what for most are the few situations when the smaller AFT 55 or TS 55 could either use more hp or capacity. Again for most it is a few situations when they need this. As many posts have stated for 3/4 ply or 5/4's the smaller, lighter AFT 55 or TS 55 will work great and is my favorite. But as Frank pointed out that ripping 5/4 hardwoods requires a Panther blade. Franks point about the correct blade for the material is very important. This is true for either saw.

As for rails... note the answers are all over on this question. Both saws require the rails to work. But how and where you use them may dictate which combination you use. One thing is for sure... you will not own just one rail. In my case so far the shorter 55" rails work for me for several reasons. In my shop I have a large cabinet saw to do my hardwood ripping & a panel saw for rough sizing although I am using it less & less because of the AFT 55. Off site my very stuffed full size truck w/topper probably wouldn't be kind to a 106" or 118" rail....

What I have found is the Festool system adapts to your needs... However in my case I also learned to re-program myself to work with the Festool system. If you can justify the steep cost of the Festool products... you start to see benefits by how the Festool tools work as a system. The AFT 55 lead to MFT 1080 work table...., to a CT 22 vacuum..., to a saber saw..., and a drill. One sander followed another... and another to total of seven sanders. Don't read this wrong. These are tools for me I used nearly everyday. This is not a gloat. When I bought the AFT 55 it was for a single use to cut teak & holly plywood off site. I didn't expect using it as system. Or envision how I use it today.

Joe I don't know what the right combination is for you. But as I started this post out.... I should caution you....

Hope this helps, jim

[Joe Jensen]

Hi Joe,

I should caution you.... the purchase of the Festool AFT 55 was what started me down the Festool road that now leads through a canyon of Systainers... it's a 12 step process... 1st you have to ....

Jim, it's too late for me. I bought the 1/2 sheet finishing sander and like $200 of abrasives. I already had a WAP drywaller vac which is like a much quieter $1000 version of the CT22. The Festool stuff is nice. Unfortunately I don't have room for all my full size tools and the large Festool table. So...I'm left wondering if it's worth the $430 for the TS 55, and another $217 for the long rail just to break down plywood. I already have a Sawstop set up to rip up to 62" wide, and a large outfeed table. I have a large Dewalt 5HP (Original Saw Company) saw setup as 90 degree cross cut only. It can cut perfect 90 degree cuts up to 20" wide, and I can flip and cut 39" wide.

But, the Festool is nice. Maybe I should wait for the Domino...joe

[Chuck Saunders]

I don't have the Festool but I do have the EZ Smart. No, that is not my point. On the subject of rails though, I have to move around and load up the truck. I find it far more convienient to carry the shorter rails around and through houses than a longer rail. If I worked only in my shop I would have a long and a short so I didn't have to change anything and manuverability would not be a factor.
Chuck

[Jim Becker]

Chuck makes a good point about "ease of portability" when it comes to guide rails. I think I'd also stay with knitting two or more rails together for "on job site" convenience and keep my 8'+ rail for shop use in breaking down panels.

[Jim Dailey]

Joe with your current equipment you bring up some good points. For case work you are set. Since the lowers cabinets are basically 24 x 36 sides, a cabinet saw with a 30" fence & a good slider will build you virtually anything... If you intent is to use the TS 55 primarily in the shop the only thing it will save you is the lifting of full sheets to table saw height. You certainly have more than enough power to straight line, although the TS 55 & a long rail will give you some additional flexibility for ripping but limited in hp for thick stock.

I did read about your vacuum, sounds nice. Maybe I should say sounds quite-!!

I too will be looking at the Domino when it arrives. I have read some very funny exchanges on Woodworkers Forum www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/index.php a site in Australia about the Domino & saw some examples of what the machine is capable of...

You will love the Festool 1/2 sheet sander for case work!!! The 1/4 sheet sander has surprisingly replaced my all time favorite; the Rockwell/Porter Cable speed block. The 1/4 sheet is great for corners & vertical work.

Good luck on your decisions,
jim

[John Stevens]

The saw red lights all the time

For what it's worth, I don't have this problem if I use the ripping blade. Of course, the ripping blade doesn't leave a smooth edge like the fine-toothed blade, so there's a trade off.

[Tyler Howell]

I have 2 1400 rails I think I'll get an eight footer just because I'm too lazy tokeep assembing the 55"s:o

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I have the TS55 and a longer and shorter rail, but my plywood is only 3'x6' so I do fine.

No "bump" for me, the rails seem to line up just fine.

The other day I was cutting 4 sheets of 9mm plywood at once, not a problem just cut through it with ease, ah that is a total of 1 1/2"...?

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/wine_shelves/wine_shelf_festoolcut2.jpg
I've also cut through some hard GREEN Sakura, and it handled that easy too............

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/jackpot/festool_1st_cuts3.jpg

Great saw, I'd buy it again.

Cheers!

[John Lucas]

I saw the TS 75 at the IWF show in Atlanta. I have the TS55 and like the feel of it better. I think the TS75 is too heavy and bulky for everyday use.

Mike, I would have agreed with you before getting the TS75 to try out. I also have the TS55 and love it as saw number one. But the TS75 is very easy to handle and the extra power and cutting depth is nice to have.
This picture was shot last saturday with lovely assistant Jessica using the TS55 to re-saw 4" thick mahogany. It was a "work in turn" effort. The saw cut half way through and she flipped the plank and cut the same cut from the other side. The lower picture is the resulting 3 boards cut so far. The chunk of wood to the left is the next to be cut into 3 individual boards. For this method, the sides were all amazingly smooth. The TS75 with the Panther blade made the whole saw operation very smooth...easier that handling the heavy timber on the bandsaw.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/projec18.jpg

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/projec19.jpg

[Terry Flowers]

Stu, what blade, and was it the same for both the hardwood and the ply? It is perplexing to me that some complain that the TS55 bogs down in thick hardwood, and others have no problem. The blade aside, it appears to me fom some Festool group posts that blade heel alignment may be causing some problems, but it is also surprising that new saws at such a price and of such acclaimed quality would not be accurately aligned at the factory. I have yet to test mine on thick hardwood. Can't wait.

Terry

[Jim Dailey]

Hi John,

I read over on the Festool user's group that you broke your leg over the weekend. I hope you are not in too much discomfort & that your leg mends well & fast so you can get back to the shop.

jim

[James Biddle]

Chuck makes a good point about "ease of portability" when it comes to guide rails. I think I'd also stay with knitting two or more rails together for "on job site" convenience and keep my 8'+ rail for shop use in breaking down panels.

Thanks, Jim. Now I need to buy a long one for my shop AND hang onto the 2nd short for road work. Festool, here's my credit card... ;)

Slightly off topic... does anyone use the limit stops for the rails? How well do they work?

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu, what blade, and was it the same for both the hardwood and the ply? It is perplexing to me that some complain that the TS55 bogs down in thick hardwood, and others have no problem. The blade aside, it appears to me fom some Festool group posts that blade heel alignment may be causing some problems, but it is also surprising that new saws at such a price and of such acclaimed quality would not be accurately aligned at the factory. I have yet to test mine on thick hardwood. Can't wait.

Terry
Terry, same blade, the fine tooth, I really should have used the panther ripping blade, but I don't have one, yet!

On the hardwood, I had to go slow and steady, but I tried the same cut with my Makita 7 1/2" CS, and it did not even try, it just died :D

Rick Christopherson has written a VERY good manual for the TS55, you should down load it and then go over your saw and set it up. Things can get out of alignment in shipping, the great thing about the TS55 is that is was easy to adjust and put it back into alignment.

Cheers!

[John Stevens]

... does anyone use the limit stops for the rails? How well do they work?

Good thing you asked. I use one behind the saw for every cut. If you plunge the saw into the wood, it will kick back. Depending on how strong the kickback is, the saw may skip off the rail and gouge the wood or the guide rail. (Gouging a guide rail seems to be a rite of passage for Festool saw owners.) Placing a limit stop behind the saw prevents this from happening 100% of the time. It takes literally one second to put the limit stop into position behind the saw, so I figure it's cheap insurance.

I've never used a second limit stop at the far end of the cut, but I assume it would work as well in front of the saw as it does behind it.

[Rick Christopherson]

Rick Christopherson has written a VERY good manual for the TS55, you should down load it and then go over your saw and set it up. Things can get out of alignment in shipping, the great thing about the TS55 is that is was easy to adjust and put it back into alignment.Cheers! Stu, That manual is not officially released yet, so you won't find it on the Festool website. As you already know, you can download an unofficial version from my website, and thank you for not reposting the link without checking with me first.

Because this is an unreleased manual, Festool is not responsible for the content. http://waterfront-woods.home.att.net/festool/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf

[Kevin Perez]

I am another two short rail user. No problems. They join together inside the track with a bar and setscrews. I have to say that since my wife bought me this saw system, I have done all my sheetgood cutting with it. Very easy, and quite accurate.

[Joe Jensen]

I bought the TS75 and for the most part I'm happy. Somehow I expected more power, guess I'm just used to big table saws. I really don't like the wierd harmonic vibration on startup. Festool posted somewhere that this is normal, and a result of their pulse sidth modulation. They even claim that it's "proof the saw is working right). Reminds me of the old Delta chopsaw that have and hate. Sucker vibrates like crazy until it gets up speed. Anyway, the vibration makes it feel cheap, and at this price they should solve the vibration issue...joe