Router Lift Clarification

[Mike Vsoika]

Pardon my really basic question but as far as a router lift goes is it a really matter of convienence and speed -- adjusting above the table vs. beneath the table? :confused:

Thanks,

Mike

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Of course. It's one of those things you get used to very quickly, though.

KC

[Dave Falkenstein]

Pardon my really basic question but as far as a router lift goes is it a really matter of convienence and speed -- adjusting above the table vs. beneath the table? :confused:

Thanks,

Mike

In addition to convenience and speed, accuracy is a factor as well. Many lifts have an indicator to tell you how much you are raising or lowering the bit for precise adjustments. One convenience item in some lifts is the ability to change bits without removing the router, by allowing the router to be raised to its maximum height quickly.

[Dave Richards]

FWIW, a few years ago I built a lift for my DW621 router. It cost me less than $10 and was attached to the router independent of the plate for the table. It is light enough that it could remain attached to the router when I hand hold it. It did require reaching under the table to set but I always end up down on my knees so I can see to set the bit height against my gauging. It's actually easier for me to reach and use than a top-of-the-table lift adjuster.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

There are also a number of routers that come factory ready for above-table adjustment without an aftermarket lift. Milwaukee, Triton, etc.

[glenn bradley]

I made a trade-off on my router; power vs. cost/collet reveal. There is no way to change bits above the table for me without the use of 'bent wrenches'. I opted to just drop the motor out of the housing and change bits that way as all other aspects of the router met my requirements and I didn't have to pay for a lift.

This I have adapted to rather quickly as the motor slides out without the need for any tricky maneuvers; just unlock the mechanism and catch (so to speak) the motor as it drops out. Once back in place I can adjust from above or below the table as suits me. Micro adjustment from above is something I immediately became used to. Like electric side mirrors on a car; I never knew how much I'd use the feature till I had it. Can't imagine going back.

[Ken Salisbury]

In order to be a boni-fide member of SMC you are required to use a real first and last name. Please PM Jackie Outten (http://sawmillcreek.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=6) with that information and she will update your registration.


"Your Friendly Moderator"

[Mike Vsoika]

Done.

In other news, bought my first router today - PC 8529 Plunge router. I never could decide on a router table solution. Not knowing what I need made buying harder and more confusing. Anyhow I went with a Rockler table. If I need to change/modify/upgrade later so be it.

Mike

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

If I am going to invest in a lift I'll probably just break down and buy a shaper.

Some routers obviate the need for a lift Such as the Triton.

[Mark Rios]

There are also a number of routers that come factory ready for above-table adjustment without an aftermarket lift. Milwaukee, Triton, etc.........Freud seems to have a good one as well.

[Justin Dreier]

The router lift is for convenience (adjusting and changing above table). I also find that the lift can have much higher accuracy in some cases. I had a bosch underneath my router table and I would unclamp it and use the adjustment knob. Then when I clamped it tight again, it would move slightly. There was never a way to get it dead on after resetting it.

With my Jessem, I can zero in exactly each time. Although I purchased for the convenience, it's provided a much higher level of accuracy.

Regards, Justin

[glenn bradley]

I run the Rockler TS extension. It's inexpensive and has worked out fine. Easy to make jigs and such.