Router Table Update

[Mike Vsoika]

I posted earlier asking questions about buy options on router and router table. I was previously headed towards buy but after walking through my garage I might have other options. My daughter's old bady dresser -- 3 drawer melamine (sp?) chest.

Top dimensions are 41 x 19.

Here are some pictures -- hope they turn out:

http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=DSCN0755.JPG


The table top does have a slight bow in it from setting tools on it over the years (Hope it turns out ):

http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=DSCN0754.4b0.JPG

1) Go with this?

2) Get a router table top for it?

3) Keep throwing drill bits in it and just buy a router table?


Thanks!

Mike

[jonathan snyder]

Mike,
Build a router table, they do not have to be fancy to get good results, but they do have to be flat. My first one was not pretty, but it got the job done, and I built it out of scrap. There are lots of free plans out there if you want a fancy one.

Here is my second router table, from plans in Woodworkers Journal. It was my first big project. It took me a while but it helped build some skills, and I had fun. I added dust collection and bit storage. I made a plate out of 3/8" acrylic and use set screws to level it

46786


Whatever you decide, have fun with it!

Jonathan

[Nate Folco]

Any bow in your table will be transposed to your work. Lay a pencil down on the table and run a peice of scrap in front of the tip. The mark will start out about 1/8" at the end, but in the middle it will only be ~1/16", and then back to 1/8" at the other end.

You should be able to flatten it out with some battens I would think.

[pat warner]

This one (http://patwarner.com/router_table_cd.html)might get you started whilst you're thinking/working on the next one.
A marginal fence or pretzled top gets you no where, moreover expect some safety compromises.

[Jerry Olexa]

To me, accuracy is a key part of an effective router table. A bowed or cupped top to me spells trouble that will reflect in all your routings. Further, the fence will be a challenge both for safety and accurate cuts. I cannot retrieve your pics (way too big for this laptop screen) so I cannot see. Hate to say it, but IMHO, I simply wouldn't do that. Just my 2 cents....

[Alan Turner]

Strong battens will flatten a top, usually. And, another way is to use MDF, which is quite flat (till it sags), and then install elevator screws, drilled and tapped into the outside edges and battens, leaving room for a wrench to make adjustments. I used 4 rows of four on a 24 x 42 inch top. Then, using a straight edge, you can level the top over time. Many things may throw the top out of flat, including sag, a floor that moves, etc. My elevator screws are 1/4 x 20, 1" dia. top, and a 9/32 square shank just under the flat top.
Our router table must be moved to run long stock, and we were concerned that the wood floor, which is not that flat, might throw the top out of flat.