How to remove old blade from circular saw?

[Dave Fifield]

Hi folks,

I have an ancient B&D circular saw with a general purpose blade that's been on it for about 12 years. I bought a new blade for it recently but can't get the old one off. The screw will not budge. It's a left hand thread (I assume - maybe it isn't....?). We've tried all kinds of persuasion to get it to move, from penetrating oil to air impact driver. The head of the bolt is pretty much rounded over now and will have to be replaced.

Any ideas how to get this thing out? Maybe I should just go buy a new circular saw (with a laser!)?

:Dave F.

[Steve Clardy]

Tough question without actually having it in hand.
If its that tight, with the bolt head rounded off to the point of no return, take a 3/8" rod or bolt of some sort, 6-8" long, and wire weld it to the bolt head. Bend it up some to clear the blade guard.
The heat will help loosen it up, along with the leverage you have.
Then a new bolt.

You tried to remove it both directions?

[Alex Shanku]

Heat and channel lock #410 work wonders.

[Frank Fusco]

Big vise grips, heat, muscle.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave...........I just got rid of one of those a year or so ago. Is it right bladed? Is the blade on the right side of the handle? If so the bolt is probably a normal CW thread as the blade on a CS cuts up from the bottom. Try turning the bolt the other way.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Just one question, Dave, since, as you said , "It's rusted." Is it really a Bolt and not a Nut? My B/D has a threaded spindle and the Nut covers up all the threading, so it could be a nut. If it is, a NUT BUSTER would work, too. But, Like the others said ...............HEAT.... and either Vise grips or the NEW wrenches designed for this problem. They're supposed to be able to grip a rounded over head. I believe they are Craftsman.

Bruce

[Norman Hitt]

Dave, first, I'm sure it wouldn't be a left hand thread, or it would loosen from the rotation of the blade. Now, since you've tried most everything else, a trick that has worked for me MANY times over the past, is as follows; I would sit down and lay the saw in my lap with the blade bolt up and then take a punch with about a 1/4" or larger tip and a ballpeen hammer and place the tip of the punch in the center of the head of the blade bolt, holding the punch straight in line with the bolt, (perpendicular to the blade) and give it a few sharp Raps. Don't hit it too hard or you could damage the bearings in the saw. More raps, not harder raps is better. This will many times loosen any rust or corrosion (or other reason for sticking), and then you can fairly easily remove the bolts.

If this doesn't work, you might carefully heat the head of the bolt, and it's possible that "MIGHT' work.

I've always had the best luck with the first method though. Let us know if it works for you.

Good Luck

[Dave Sweeney]

I've always gotten excellent results removing rusted on bolts and nuts using PB Plaster Penetrating Catalyst. It out performs all other penetrating oils that I've ever used.

[Jesse Cloud]

Yes Dave, you are right. You need another circular saw, best to get one with a laser. I'm sure that nut will never come off - so you have an ironclad excuse, er - reason, to get a new tool. ;)

[glenn bradley]

I agree with heat having to persuade a few stuck bolts in my time working on heavy equipment. With the blade in place you probably can't direct the heat to the "socket" as opposed to the bolt but, that owuld be preferrable. Here's the rub; once heated a knock on the bolt as if driving a nail will jar the bolt to "socket" thread contact BUT, you are going to be pounding on the motor shaft so a HEAVY hammer with a light touch is far better than pounding the doo-wop out of it with a framing hammer, eh?

If the B&D has met your needs till now I'd say you deserve a new saw.

[Mike Sheppard]

You might try some bees wax, put heat on the bolt head then melt the wax on it, it will draw down to the threads. It does not take much heat.
Mike

[Dave Fifield]

Lots of ideas to try - thanks guys! I will give some of them a go. If any of them works, then I guess I'll get a bit more for the saw at the local flea market ;)

Ken - yes, it's a right-bladed one, so it up-cuts from below - I guess you're right, the bolt will be an ordinary RH thread. We did try turning it both ways already though - no luck!

Jesse has the right idea - I feel a new circular saw with laser guide in my future :)

Anyone have any thoughts on the offerings available? I haven't even begun to research the choices so I'm wide open to suggestions.

Cheers,
:Dave F.

[Dave Fifield]

Voila! Norman's method worked!! A few sharp taps with a center punch and a large pair of grips and she came free!! NFDH (No Photograph, Didn't Happen)? Here you go:

http://www.ubersprang.com/CIMG1747_s.jpg

http://www.ubersprang.com/CIMG1759_s.jpg

The bolt's a bit mangled now, but at least it's out!! It is a normal RH thread too....mangling was mainly done by a well-intentioned neighbor that said he could get it out....from the direction of the mangling, it's obvious he was convinced it was a LH thead....oh well.

Thanks for your help guys....what would I do without y'all?!!! :D

Dave F.

[Norman Hitt]

Dave, I'm glad it worked for you. It has worked for me for all kinds of things so I always go to this method before anything else. I have used heat, and ice, and commercial products, but some things just won't tolerate the heat without damage, and many times, nothing is available, (or handy) to apply the heat. I learned this trick from my Dad at a very early age. Sometimes the OLD Simple Tricks are still the best.:D