Door edge routing

[Ed Blough]

I asked the question in another thread which way you all do your door edge treatment.

Whether you routed the outer edge of the stiles and rails then did the glue up
or
glued up the door and then did the outer edge.

Everyone said they did the glue up and then routed the edge treatment.
I agree that seemed to the give me the best results however any errors such as tear out, burning that can't be sanded or who knows always ruins the whole door rather than just a rail or stile.

When your routing the out edge of the assembled door what do you do to help prevent tearout? or other possible damage to the door?

For example let us say your applying a normal roman ogee to the outer edge of the door. Do you cut it making multible passes? Is the cut made on a router table using the fence or a starting pin? In cutting maple prone to chip out what speed do you use? On cherry prone to burning what speed do you use?

I don't do doors enough to be proficient so I'm very thankful for any help and advice.

[Steve Clardy]

I do it on a router table, no fence.
Ball bearing bit.
Two passes
Full speed. I do not have variable speed routers.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

When your routing the out edge of the assembled door what do you do to help prevent tearout? or other possible damage to the door?
1. Use a back up block of wood as a sacrifice
or
2. Tape it some folks like that blue painter's tape
or
3. cut your door parts oversize so you can trim off any tearout.
and
4.) use Whiteside bits

[Steve Jenkins]

Rout the door edges in the same order you would a solid panel. do one end first (crossgrain on a panel and crossgrain on the stile ends) then rotate counterclockwise 90 degrees and do one long edge. rotate another 90 to do the bottom end then another 90 to do the other long edge.
by doing the routing in this order any chipout on the crossgrain end will be cleaned up when you do next edge.
Steve