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Zahid Naqvi
09-12-2006, 12:27 PM
I've made several Krenov styles planes, mostly smooth but a few shoulder planes as well. The first one I made was to the spec, as defined in the David Fink book, i.e. 45 degrees. I was at Dennis' one weekend and we decided to experiment some, so I made a couple more, one at 55 and one at 35. Reading the grave reviews of the Mujingfang(can't spell but you know what I am referring to) high angle smoother, we figured a 55 degree Krenov would work real well for figured wood. Not so, I did a few trial cuts with all three and the original 45 degree still works the best on curly and plain maple.

Having said has anyone of you tried making a high angle woodie, and how did it work out. Are there any caviats I am missing.

I also have stock ready for a block plane, any suggestion for an ideal angle for that?

In case you are wondering I am using Hock irons for both the smooth and the block.

Rob Millard
09-13-2006, 7:44 AM
Zahid,

I made a wooden plane with a bed angle of 52 ˝ ˚ (I couldn’t decide between 50 and 55 so I split the difference). It has a 3/16” thick A-2 iron. I’ve been very happy with the way it works. I originally made it as a smooth plane, but I now use it as a scrub plane ( I prefer an iron plane for smoothing). With a properly cambered blade, this plane will equal the LN 4 ˝ with the high angle frog. In the photo you can see some shavings from highly figured curly maple, taken with the smooth plane blade.

For those that think a tight mouth is essential for a smooth cut, I photographed the sole showing the gapping mouth. When I first made the plane it had a very tight mouth, but it forever clogged with shavings, so I opened the mouth up quite a bit. I put in an insert so I could change the mouth opening if I ever wanted to, but there has been no need, since the wide mouth still lets me take very fine shavings in difficult woods.
Rob Millard

Zahid Naqvi
09-13-2006, 10:12 AM
For those that think a tight mouth is essential for a smooth cut, I photographed the sole showing the gapping mouth. When I first made the plane it had a very tight mouth, but it forever clogged with shavings, so I opened the mouth up quite a bit. I put in an insert so I could change the mouth opening if I ever wanted to, but there has been no need, since the wide mouth still lets me take very fine shavings in difficult woods.
Rob Millard

Ditto on the mouth, I have found most of my planes very tolerant of the opening. I haven't completely tuned the 55degree plane yet, but so far I find it very sensitive to the thickness of shavings (it will only work for the thinnest of shavings). It is not shaped yet so it is still awkward to hold. Me and Dennis will have a go at it this weekend.

Jake Darvall
09-16-2006, 9:07 AM
I've never made a plane bedded anymore than 45.

But I have sharpened blades with backbevels plenty....uno, backbevel 10 degrees to effectively give your blade and effective pitch of 55....etc.

The highest I've gone is about 70 degrees effective pitch (25 backbevel).....

My conclusions I 'currently' have on it are.... and they may sound basic..:o but here they are...

the higher you go the better it deals with troublesome grain. Usually 60 degrees covers 90 percent of all timber I come accross.

but the higher you go the harder it is to push,,,,so like said the finer you have to set it, and the more rigged the blade must be on its bed.....ie. since its taking more force, the more likely it'll chatter......so the thicker the blade and the more firmer the bind of the blade at its edge the better, I feel.

the higher you go, because it gets harder to push, the more likely you'll want to skew the body of the plane (to make it easier to push).....well, must avoid that, because skewing the plane reduces the effective pitch and the benifits on finish. Must keep the plane straight.

The subjective thing I've found, is that some timbers love high E.P while some don't. And its not always apparent. Have to often just try and find out. Definetly feel that pine hates it (not that you'd often need to). Camphor larual likes it, even though its soft like pine. ??? some dense woods ok, some not.

trying to say,,,,,there's definetly a point where the whole High E.P concept must be abandoned for a scraper.

Philip Duffy
09-18-2006, 5:39 AM
Since I found myself chatting with the Toolmaker Shop at Colonial Williamsburg yesterday I asked what angle they use on the wood planes. It turns out that 42d. is about the best they have come up with. Works for them, and works for all, it would seem. Phil

Zahid Naqvi
09-18-2006, 10:17 AM
Since I found myself chatting with the Toolmaker Shop at Colonial Williamsburg yesterday I asked what angle they use on the wood planes. It turns out that 42d. is about the best they have come up with. Works for them, and works for all, it would seem. Phil

So far the 45 works the best for me, as well. Me and Dennis finally finished the 55 and it works exactly how most of the experienced neanders had suggested. It works good on figured wood (I tried it against the grain on maple and no tearout), but doesn't give the same shiny surface that the 45 produces.