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View Full Version : Opposing Arches, A glass top table base, PIX



John Fry
09-12-2006, 1:23 AM
First I want to thank everyone who visited and responded to my last project post;

My recent veneering extravaganza, PIX (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42109)

and, as always, I welcome your comments AND critiques on this latest project.

I call this the “Opposing Arches” table.

This glass top display table, or buffet, is 50” wide at the base, 14” deep and 29” tall. It supports a piece of glass that is ¾” thick by 18” by 66”.

The construction is shop sawn zebrawood veneers, laminated on two layers of 1/8” poplar bending ply, on a curved torsion box inner core. The curved members are then framed in sold quarter sawn sapeli. The divider box is shop sawn veneer, cut from a very fine grained piece of Macassar ebony.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/Front1.jpg

The unique curvy design is clean and simple, yet very dramatic!

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/Angle2.jpg

This elevated and angled shot shows the consistency of the book matched zebra veneers.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/tamplate.jpg

I started by laying out a “half template” and then creating the full size pattern for the curved torsion box construction. I will make three “ribs” for each curved box.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/tbox.jpg

Each torsion box gets a solid bolting plate in the center zone, so the three main structural elements can be screwed and bolted together. Then cross member dividers were glued in between the ribs all the way down to the ends.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/resaw.jpg

All the zebrawood veneers were shop sawn at 1/16” thick, from the same straight grained, 8/4 by 10” wide, plank of wood.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/laminate.jpg

The bookmatched veneers were trimmed, jointed, and edge glued together. First the layers of bending ply were laminated on the torsion boxes with the vacuum press, then the veneers were pressed on last.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/flushtrim.jpg

I flushed trimmed the edges of the veneers and ply using a router. I installed a long rectangular base plate on the router to help steady and keep it flat on the concave side of the arch.

Continued…….

John Fry
09-12-2006, 1:24 AM
http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/sandend.jpg

I trimmed most of the over-hang on the ends with a low angle block plane, and then using 3” strips of my drum sander rolls clamped to the bench, I sanded the ends flat and flush by sliding the assembly back and forth.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/protobox.jpg

My next step was to make a prototype divider box out of MDF. This fit was going to take some special effort to get curves and bevels to match up perfectly. Once fit, the prototype would serve as a template for making the actual ebony veneered, four panel box

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/boxdry.jpg

I had a beautiful piece of very tight grained and consistently dark Macassar ebony in stock. It is so dark, it almost looks like Gaboon. I resawed it for the box and some maple to line the inside. The box was grooved to hold a ½“ Baltic birch ply for screwing and bolting the assembly together.

The box is dry fit together to check the miters, and grooves. Then using the MDF prototype as a pattern, I drew out the curves and cut the bevels.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/endcap.jpg

Oversized end caps were cut, drilled, screwed and glued to the bottoms of the ends.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/endsculpt.jpg

After they dried, the contours were hand sculpted to follow the curves of the veneered surfaces on both the top and bottom faces. The screw holes were plugged with sapeli.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/edgeframes.jpg

The solid sapeli side frames were glued up from several pieces of wood by staggering the blocks over a full sized drawing in order to save wood going around the curve. If I did this again, I would spend the money to cut the curved pieces from two glued up planks and NOT have so many glue lines. I was careful with the glue lines matching, and I think it came out great, but I know I could have done it better!

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/edgeglue.jpg

One at a time, I glued the oversized frame pieces on to the sides of the arches. These would have to be trimmed with a flush trim bit and a lot of climb cutting to avoid the potential tear-out from the grain changes in the sawn curved edges.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/dryfit.jpg

The first complete dry fit. I needed to mark out the location of the holes in the glass and drill the pilot holes for the 5/16” threaded inserts.

Continued……..

John Fry
09-12-2006, 1:25 AM
http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/boxfit.jpg

The box still needed final fitting by hand. Here it is already fitted and screwed to the under side of the upper curve, and I’m final shaping the fit to mate with the bottom curve.

Once the fit was perfect, I drilled four ½” holes through the skin of the bottom arch, and I ran four ¼” by 7” lag bolts up from the underside and through the bolting blocks in each member of the assembly. I used clamping cauls to keep the two arches co-planer while I drilled and bolted. The ½” holes were plugged with sapeli.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/tbolts.jpg

I used 5/16” flange bolts to make the hold downs for the top. I used a circle cutter to cut two 3-1/2” circles of Macassar ebony at 1/4” thick. I used a forstner bit to cut the recess in the top of the circle so the flange bolt’s head would sit flush, and then I veneered a 1/16” piece of the ebony veneer on top of that.

After it was sanded out, you can’t even see the seam.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/medallion.jpg

The Chisel and Bit medallion is inlaid in the underside.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/lowangle1.jpg

This low angle shot shows a little different perspective, and it also shows the tear in my seamless backdrop. :o

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/knob2.jpg

A close-up of the Macassar ebony hold down knob.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/box1.jpg

This close-up really shows the perfect fit of the curves and beveled edges of the box, and the beautiful grain in the Macassar ebony.

This big, bold, and beautiful table base with its “Opposing Arches” was not all that difficult to make. It did require some intricate fitting and a little bit of hand work, but the hardest part of its construction, was trying to figure out how to clamp the curvy arches to the bench so I could work on them.

It is finished with four coats of an oil/varnish blend.

I just finished a set of seven sculpted dining chairs, then this curved piece, and my next commission, which I’m working on now, is a pair of round "drum" tables, with a dearth of straight pieces and a lot of bent lamination work. After that is a free form set of four “roundish” tables.................

Hopefully, there is a nice square bookcase out there someplace with my name on it. :D

Thanks for looking,

Chris Padilla
09-12-2006, 1:31 AM
W O W ! ! ! Awesome project...great presentation of the steps!

Michael Em
09-12-2006, 2:02 AM
Wow ! ! !

You've got some mad talent in the woodworking realm! Incredible design and so elegant.

Great inspiration to try something like that.

Michael

Brett Baldwin
09-12-2006, 2:24 AM
A great piece and thanks for cataloging it so well. Its a lot a fun to see "the making of".

Jason Tuinstra
09-12-2006, 2:30 AM
John, very nice work. The step by step process was very helpful and fun to follow. Thanks for the post.

Norman Hitt
09-12-2006, 2:54 AM
It's Beautiful, and I love it. I really enjoyed your step by step pictorial. Excellent design and execution, and you're sure no Slouch with that Camera either. (I think you might have done this a time or three before).

Jim Becker
09-12-2006, 3:53 AM
Yum! That's a really great project and the pictorial really is a wonderful addition to the SMC knowledge base!

Tim Martin
09-12-2006, 5:38 AM
Congratulations on a well designed and beautifully crafted piecehttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon14.gif. Thanks for the detailed and informative post...

Mike Null
09-12-2006, 6:33 AM
Thanks for sharing your beautiful work.

Guy Germaine
09-12-2006, 6:47 AM
That's it, I Quit! :eek:
Outstanding, as usual John!

Karl Laustrup
09-12-2006, 7:27 AM
Beautiful design. Beautiful wood. Great tutorial and pictures. 'Nuff said.

Thanks John.

Karl

Bob Childress
09-12-2006, 7:39 AM
Awesome and elegant!

I think I'll just go quietly out to my little shop now.:(

Aaron Montgomery
09-12-2006, 8:37 AM
John - incredible as always! I'm always impressed by your work and enjoy your detailed write ups.

Thanks for sharing!!

Maurice Ungaro
09-12-2006, 8:38 AM
John,
I hope you send that in to FWW.

Mark Patoka
09-12-2006, 9:07 AM
Very nice! I especially like ow you explain what you did with the step by step photos.

Dan Oliphant
09-12-2006, 11:27 AM
As always, you done good. I'm still thinking museum piece somewhere done the line.

Kenny King
09-12-2006, 12:34 PM
The fifth picture which should show the curved torsion box ribs didn't post. I'ld sure love to see 'em. :)

- ken

Paul Zonneveld
09-12-2006, 1:17 PM
:eek: John I have to say your work is something to behold. I have not posted on this forum before, but your projects are just amazing enough I have to tell you that. I would like a little more information if possible on how you put together the 1/16" thick zebra wood veneers. Did you bend several together to the frames with glue between each and then vacuum them down or how was it done? I am curious as I had a similar project in mind, but have avoided it as I did not have the knowledge to put together the veneers as you have. Any info would be helpful. You can PM me as well is you wish. Again fantastic work!

Bruce Page
09-12-2006, 2:37 PM
Excellent post and a beautiful work of art!

Thanks!

John Fry
09-12-2006, 6:40 PM
Thanks for the kind words, everybody.


The fifth picture which should show the curved torsion box ribs didn't post. I'ld sure love to see 'em. :)
- ken
Hmmm. All the pix loaded from this end. Here it is again just in case you still haven't seen it.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-script/CSUpload//upload/Glass_table_base%252edb/tbox.jpg



I would like a little more information if possible on how you put together the 1/16" thick zebra wood veneers. Did you bend several together to the frames with glue between each and then vacuum them down or how was it done?
I re-read that part of the post and I'm sorry I wasn't clearer. After the curved torsion box's ribbed assembly was completed, I "skinned" it with a double thickness of 1/8" bending plywood by vacuum pressing it in a bag, one layer at a time. Afterwards, I vac pressed a single layer of the shop-sawn zebra veneer on each face.

If you have any more questions when you start your project, shoot me a PM.

Cecil Arnold
09-12-2006, 6:57 PM
Outstanding John, thanks for sharing.

Martin Lutz
09-12-2006, 11:16 PM
That is beatuful work!! Thanks for posting with such detail.

Dave Anthony
09-13-2006, 2:03 AM
Well, gee John, you're setting the bar a bit high for the rest of us, don't you think? :) Seriously, that's beautiful work, and a great writeup. You are walking a thin line between woodworking and art here. On the other hand, if you like curvy things, I've got some bubinga you might be interested in - no need to build forms, clamp, etc.

Chris Barnett
12-03-2007, 8:25 PM
[Look over your shoulder, David....you have stiff competition.] Masterful.

Chris Foley
12-04-2007, 8:34 AM
John,

Have you ever considered publishing a "how to" book? This stuff is beyond wonderful. I look forward to your posts as i can always expect something extraordinary!

Thanks for sharing!

Craig Thompson
12-04-2007, 5:03 PM
Very nice piece of furniture, Someone will be very happy.

Cliff Rohrabacher
12-04-2007, 5:19 PM
How very loverly~!!

Bill Wyko
12-04-2007, 6:07 PM
WOW! Nice job. How did I miss the first one. Great work on both. Thanks for the step by step too.

Mike Heaney
12-04-2007, 7:06 PM
missed this the first time around earlier in the fall- but that is a beautiful piece of work- the overall design flows, the materials complement and the execution is top notch- well done, and thankyou for sharing

Mike

John Fry
12-04-2007, 10:26 PM
:o Well I see someone "dredged" up this old thread from over a year ago, so I will say thanks for the recently added comments.

I re-read my original post and had to chuckle at how I closed it.


I just finished a set of seven sculpted dining chairs, then this curved piece, and my next commission, which I’m working on now, is a pair of round "drum" tables, with a dearth of straight pieces and a lot of bent lamination work. After that is a free form set of four “roundish” tables.................

Hopefully, there is a nice square bookcase out there someplace with my name on it. :DI also had that carved wing back chair in there too, so I guess the credenza I just completed was the square casework I had been hoping for.

Thanks again