Questions about bottoms on drawerboxes with dovetails.

[Roland Chung]

I've never done dovetails before. I bought the jig (PC), started to read the 79 page manual and advanced manual - then returned the jig. I am considering ordering from a drawerbox supplier, but each company that I checked with has slightly different specs and issues.

One issue that you might be able to help me with is the hole that shows up in the corners of the dovetailed or boxjointed boxes. I remember from the PC manual that they recommended stopping the dado before you went throught the dovetail and that this would prevent the hole from showing. What is the easiest way to put the groove in the drawerbox fronts and sides if I needed to stop them from cutting through the ends of the pieces?

Is there a size of dovetail or boxjoint or layout (if using adjustable templates like the Akeda) that seems to work best when using Tandem drawer glides with integrated Blumotion?

In general, if I try to make these boxes, what would be the easiest way?

Here is some additional info:
1) Drawer parts would be 3/4" cherry or red birch.
2) Corners could be dovetailed or box jointed
3) Using Tandem glides with integrated Blumotion
4) Need 1/2" recess in bottom
5) 5 boxes that will be pullouts
6) Box hts are 2-1/2" and 3-1/2"
7) Want to stop groove for bottom so that the hole does not show as there will be no drawerfronts.
8) Prefer bottoms thicker than 1/4"

Thanks in advance!

RC

[Nick Clayton]

Roland,

I can only speak from my limited experience, but I have an older PC dovetail jig that I picked up at a yard sale a couple years ago. For the bottoms I found the easiest way is to simply use a router with an edge guide and attach stops to your guide.

On the other hand you only have 5 boxes so you might want to learn to hand cut them as it may be faster than setting up your jig; at least that's what I hear.

Cheers,
Nick

[Bob Reda]

Roland ,

There are a couple of ways to do this. I use the PC half blind dovetail jig for drawers. I run the slot in one of the dovetails so it doesnt show or go all the way through. another way is to use a drawer front on the face of the drawer box that will cover the the drawer so the hole doesn't show. another way, there is a bit that you run with the box dry fitted and it makes a grove along the inside. It has a bearing so it doesn't give that hohle on the end. Hope this helps.

Bob

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I'll skip the question about the hole...but will say that dovetail jigs aren't that hard once you actually use them. The directions can be confusing, but some hands-on testing will clear up most questions.

KC

[Maurice Ungaro]

Roland,
Try our friends at Lee Valley. The box-slotting bit looks like the answer to your plea.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=47818&cat=1,46168,46176&ap=1

[Jeff Monson]

I cut my groove with my table saw(2 passes), just cut the groove centered in the pin and tail so that the bottom of the slot is 1/2" from the bottom, it is very easy and works great with those blum slides, you have to use 1/4" for the bottoms as 1/2" wont clear the pins and tails and you would see a slot cut, believe me as it tried to get 1/2" for my bottoms on larger drawers, but on the bright side I used 1/4" and dont regret it a bit.

[John Hemenway]

Also make sure you use the correct Tandum. The standard one is made for drawer sides up to 5/8 in.

Just wondering -- what you are putting in such stout boxes? 3/4 in. sides and greater that 1/4 in. bottoms are hefty for drawers only 3.5 in. tall.

[Julio Navarro]

why did you return the PC jig?



I use a 1/4" router bit and stop it about an 1/8 of an inch from the edge.

[Tom Jones III]

I learned about NK style drawers from a book and have never gone back to anything else. They slide very nicely, fit perfectly and are easier to build than any other drawer style I have seen. A google search on "NK style drawers" will turn up a bunch of examples, here is the first
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2730

[Roland Chung]

Thanks for all of the replies! Any thoughts on using 3/8" or 1/2" boxjoints instead of dovetails? Or are they about as much trouble as the dovetails?


Also make sure you use the correct Tandum. The standard one is made for drawer sides up to 5/8 in.

Just wondering -- what you are putting in such stout boxes? 3/4 in. sides and greater that 1/4 in. bottoms are hefty for drawers only 3.5 in. tall.

I'm using the F series for the extra width. I was using some drawersides from a supplier that was supposed to be 5/8" (good and cheap), but after assembly, it turned out to be close enough to 3/4" to where I had clearance trouble with the std Tandems. I was able to solve the problem with the F series and liked the extra wiggle room they provided.

3/4" sides because I don't have a thickness planer, but I have extra 3/4" cherry stock laying around. I should get one soon - at the last Woodworking Show, they were practically giving away the Dewalt 13" planers.

Greater than 1/4" bottoms: 1/4" would probably work. Used 5/8" bottoms for some Tandembox drawers and thought that they were super strong for under the sink pullouts where there was enough clearance to put cases of water or can goods. I was thinking of using 1/4" again to avoid the exposed hole issue.

I got rid of the jig to help pay for the cost of subbing out the dboxes. I am still planning on making dovetails, but this is the only thing holding up a final check from a customer and I am taking way too long already. It's only 5 boxes and the customer is really patient (likes the way everything else has turned out) so I may end up making the boxes after all.

With the adjustable jigs like the Akeda, would there be any advantage to eliminating the pin and dovetail at the bottom of the corner? Would this make it easier to machine the groove for the bottom without knocking out a pin or tail?

Thanks again!

RC

[Al Willits]

Another reason why people should put at least their state in their profile, if you have 3/4" and need it planed down a bit, I'd bet some might offer to help, if they knew where you lived.
Might make it easier to work with if someone planed them down for ya?

Just a thought....:)

Al

[John Hemenway]

Another reason why people should put at least their state in their profile, if you have 3/4" and need it planed down a bit, I'd bet some might offer to help, if they knew where you lived.
Might make it easier to work with if someone planed them down for ya?

Just a thought....:)

Al
Especially if you offer to send them one of the 'practically FREE' 13" planers.:D

Good reasoning on your sizing of parts. They should be quite strong.

[Don Baer]

Box Joints are easy to make and can be done using your dado set. Here a thread where I made a sled to make 1/2" box joints.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=428088#post428088
Some folks don't bother with the sled and just build the fence with the key and attach it to their miter slider.