PDA

View Full Version : Padouk for cutting boards



Duan Packard
09-10-2006, 6:25 PM
Would like input on the feasability of using Padouk for cutting boards.
My concern arises from the way Padouk bleeds and has that
oily feel and surface.

Thanks

Duan

Mike Wenzloff
09-10-2006, 7:50 PM
Hi Duan,

I think using Padauk for a cutting board isn't a good choice. You site one reason--the bleed. When damp like a cutting board is subject to, it will continue.

Another reason is some people are allergic to the dust. Yet another is the wood is a bit splintery, so edges may begin to chip out prematurely over other woods.

Take care, Mike

Ron Jones near Indy
09-10-2006, 8:04 PM
I have never used padauk. However, I have seen it used in several cutting boards. These were nicer cutting boards that were mainly used for display purposes. It makes a very nice looking cutting board. I don't really know how it would be in heavy use.

Vaughn McMillan
09-11-2006, 1:41 AM
I've used Padauk in a few end grain boards, but as Ron mentioned, these were $120 boards that were not real likely to get everyday cutting done on them. (Here (http://workingwoods.com/workingwoods/specialty_boards.htm)are a few pics.) I didn't have any problems with bleeding colors (using mineral oil as a finish). I wouldn't suggest padauk for face or edge grain boards, as it's a bit open-pored, and not as suitable for cutting surfaces...much like mahogany. If you're looking for red tones, I'd suggest something like bloodwood (satine).

Alan DuBoff
09-11-2006, 2:33 AM
I've not used paduk, but have used quite a bit of purple heart and hickory mixed lately for cutting boards. I like this combination, the woods really look nice with each other and are durable, which is good for a cutting board.

paduk is a nice wood, but oily. I don't know how it would work, but don't find it bad to work with. I have some vertical grain paduk which is some gorgeous stuff.

Bob Reda
09-11-2006, 7:15 AM
What I do with paduck is coat with Zinser sealer which is a cut coat of shellac. This usually takes care of the bleeding and really pops the grain. Then you can put any type of topcoat on that. All finishes are food safe after they are throughly dry.

Bob