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Jim O'Dell
09-10-2006, 10:12 AM
Hi all! Well, I spent about 2 hours Saturday afternoon building my second blast gate, between going in the house and monitoring some downloads on LOML's computer. :rolleyes: I thought I'd give a pictorial account of my doings.

This first picture shows one side of the gate housing that has already been cut to size, and the 2 filler strips of 1/4" MDF glued and stapled into place. I had the gate portion sitting betwen them when they were stapled in place to assure a tight fit. Be sure to wipe down any glue that oozes out from under the filler strips. Paper towell and spit worked pretty good!:eek:
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The second picture shows the gate between the filler strips with one handle already attached. I put the 2 halves together and attached the handle so that it was tight against the blast gate housing so that it didn't get skewed to one side. Remember: Spring clamps are your friend.
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Picture three shows that I have marked the center of the blast gate for the PVC to attach, and I've marked the four corners for the bolts that hold the "sandwich" together to go through. At this time, I'm using a forstner bit to take a little out so theT-nuts will sit flush and have wood instead of melamine to grab onto with their teeth. You will notice here, if not in an earlier picture, that this melamine was wafer board instead of MDF like my first gate I built. I used scraps from a counter top for the first one that had formica on it. This was bought at HD and was the only shelfing material I could find with melamine on it.
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Picture four shows the gate installed between the two halves, the hole for the PVC marked outwith 4 screws holding the pieces together. I next drilled the four corner mounting bolt holes with 1/8" bit so I could then screw the whole assembly to a piece of plywood I could then clamp to a work surface. This way al the pieces stay together as I route the hole out for the PVC to fit into. Also this is where I drilled my center hole for my router pivot pin to sit into. This way all three pieces have the same center for routing the opening.
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Picture five shows the blast gate screwed down and ready to route. Note that the blast gater is not mounted with housing at this point. I tried cutting the hole in the gate separate to try to match the inside diameter of the PVC. I was close, but not perfect. But it wos no worse that the first blast gate I made with all 3 holed the same diameter.
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(continued on the next post)

Jim O'Dell
09-10-2006, 10:37 AM
(page 2)

picture 6 shows the three pieces separated, and the bolt through holes drilled in the corner positions.
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I then drilled part way through the T-nut side for the shank of the threaded part to recess into the wood, and then hammered them into place. It was a tight fit, and I probably should have painted the recessed area first, but....I was on a roll!. You can also see that for drilling the 4 corner bolt holes, I used a scrap piece of PVC to keep everything in alignent. Worked very well. The setting On the router jig I built last weekend cuts this hole very tight to the PVC. I had to hammer the pipe into place, then hammer it back out using a small block of oak. I broke the oak piece on the last blow separating the PVC from the last half of the gate!
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This last picture shows the blast gate back together and the second handle glued and stapled on, repeating the earlier method fo align it flush with the blast gate housing. Hope this helps someone thinking about building their own gates. It really is simple. I learned on the first one last weekend not to drill the bolt holes to size before doing the router work. 1/8" holes first allowed me to use deck screws to hold it down, yet not be in the way of the router jig as it made it's circles cutting the holes. I had to improvize on the first one, and still caught the edge slightly with the router when everything moved on me as I was finishing the cut.
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I'm off to reformat MY computer!! I learned a few things the first time I put it together also! Jim.

Chris Padilla
09-10-2006, 11:00 AM
Jim,

Timely thread. I bought a bunch of semi-spensive 6" gates from Lee Valley (time vs. $$$s thing) and while they are nice (aluminum I think housing, metal [galv] sliding gate), they aren't fitting my 6" S&D very well at all...too loose. I'm contiplating making my own gates as you've shown or perhaps I might route out a thin ring of wood (ply?) that gets inserted into the S&D or onto the gate to get a snug fit. Decisions, decisons.

I think I'll try and get the metal gates to work first before returning them and making my own. I do have a fair amount of scrap melamine laying around....

JayStPeter
09-10-2006, 11:10 AM
Jim,

Timely thread. I bought a bunch of semi-spensive 6" gates from Lee Valley (time vs. $$$s thing) and while they are nice (aluminum I think housing, metal [galv] sliding gate), they aren't fitting my 6" S&D very well at all...too loose.

Pick up some self stick weather seal foam from the borg. Wrap a couple strips around the gate, then shove into the pipe. Drill and insert a couple sheet metal screws ... bada bing.

Chris Padilla
09-10-2006, 11:25 AM
Hi Jay,

Yeah, was thinking that, too, although the router would be funner, your idea is significantly faster....

Bruce Wrenn
09-10-2006, 10:19 PM
Jim,

Timely thread. I bought a bunch of semi-spensive 6" gates from Lee Valley (time vs. $$$s thing) and while they are nice (aluminum I think housing, metal [galv] sliding gate), they aren't fitting my 6" S&D very well at all...too loose. I'm contiplating making my own gates as you've shown or perhaps I might route out a thin ring of wood (ply?) that gets inserted into the S&D or onto the gate to get a snug fit. Decisions, decisons.

I think I'll try and get the metal gates to work first before returning them and making my own. I do have a fair amount of scrap melamine laying around.... I know you said that you were using 6" pipe, but if you were using 4" pipe, the schedule 35 stuff fits aluminum blast gates a lot better. Just some useless knowledge. You sound like me- Spent the afternoon making a mobile base, that I could have bought for $100 or less. Works out to about $12 per hour. Oh well,now I know how to make a mobile base.

Justin Dreier
09-10-2006, 10:24 PM
[quote=Chris Padilla]Jim,

Timely thread. I bought a bunch of semi-spensive 6" gates from Lee Valley (time vs. $$$s thing) and while they are nice (aluminum I think housing, metal [galv] sliding gate), they aren't fitting my 6" S&D very well at all...too loose.
[quote]

I purchased an automotive inner tube from an auto-parts store. Cut that up into strips and wrap around the blast gate and it will fit snug into S&D pipe. The large inner tube has gone a long way in mating various air connections.

Chris Padilla
09-11-2006, 2:36 AM
Justin,

Very interesting idea! I have a bicycle tube tire laying around...it shall lay no more! :D

Matt Meiser
09-11-2006, 8:25 AM
That's very similar to how I built mine. Main difference is that I used screws instead of bolts and made the edges a little smaller.

To make my holes, I used a beam cutter--one of those deals with a bit in the center and a cutter on a beam that sticks out. Very fast in the drill press, and if you are making several, you can set up a stop block. I cut most of the way through from one side, then flip it over and cut from the other side to get clean edges. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight.

James Biddle
09-11-2006, 8:37 AM
I had real good luck using the rubber electrical tape from the BORG. It seals to itself, allowing you to make a gasket of whatever thickness you want depending on the amount of wraps you take. Pretty cheap solution too.
Here are pics of how I sealed the outside of my DC pipes, but I used it on the inside to fit blast gates too. I have the cheap plastic blast gates and was thinking of upgrading. A couple of great ideas here, both in the homemade ones and the LV.

http://home.comcast.net/~jbiddle/pics/pipegasket.jpg


http://home.comcast.net/~jbiddle/pics/pipetape.jpg

Chris Padilla
09-11-2006, 1:24 PM
James,

Some more good ideas. I have a conern about using the tape inside the pipe wondering if the adhesive might start to fail and then it get coated with sawdust thus rendering the adhesive very non-sticky. Good stuff, Folks!