NYW Router Table cost?

[Al Killian]

I am looking to build the NYW router table and it seem like it is going to be costly by time you figure in all the lumber and hardware. So, I was wondering if it was possible to find out roughly what others have spent on it and what size router they are useing in it? Being fairly new to this hobby it helps seeing what others are using.

[Rick Levine]

I didn't build the table, I bought mine from Woodpecker's, but I use a Porter-Cable model 7518, 3 1/4 horse, 5 speed.

[Paul Greathouse]

Al

So far, I have built the the complete table but have not built the cabinet that it sits on. The table and fence work great. I mounted a Bulldog lift and a PC 7518 router on mine which IMHO is the best combination available. All I have in it now besides the router table hardware kit from Rockler is a sheet of MDF and some formica. For now, it sits on a stand I built out of scrap 2X.
I figured I was better off spending money on the best router and lift I could find first and wait till later to purchase the materials for the cabinet.
The 7518 has all the power you'll ever need.
The incremental adjustment and above table bit change cabablity of the Bulldog lift are awesome.
If you would like, when I get home tonight, I will try to scan the materials list off of Norms plans and email it to you. That way you can price materials for yourself.

[Cecil Arnold]

Al, it's been several years since I built my slightly modified NYW table, and I had some scrap 3/4" ply I was able to use, but still had to buy the oak legs and rails, ply for the top (I used 3-1/2" BB sheets to laminate the top, along with some plastic lam. top and bottom and maple edge banding) maple for the fence, and most of the fittings and hardware. If memory serves, I think I was able to build for less than half what a comparable commercial unit would cost. I think something around $200 is what I wound up spending, but the comps. were in the $495 range. I had a Freud 3 1/2 hp router that I did not like to use for plunge cutting and found it pretty heavy also, so I (later) put it on a Woodpeck lift. In the future I will consider attempting to replicate Pat Warner's fence, but think I'll use some of the thick, slick plastic as a face.

Hope that gives you some help.

[Rick Levine]

Paul Greathouse,

Where did you get your Bulldog lift? I did a quick search on Google and wasn't able to locate it there.

[Paul Greathouse]

Sorry about that slip-up Rick

I've got a bad habit of calling it a bulldog lift. Its actually "Benchdog ProLift". You can check out thier website at benchdog.com and look in the products section for ProLift.

[Rick Levine]

Paul,

I just checked it out on Amazon and the reviews are quite good. I was considering Woodpecker's version until I read those reviews. Since I already own the Woodpecker router table I am concerned that Bench Dog's plate would not fit in the slot. Any ideas?

[Chuck Hanger]

Just fininshed building a router table cabinet yesterday. Have about $100 total in it not counting the top that I bought from Hartville tool. Built the main cabinet out of 3/4 birch ply and faced it with some walnut that I cut about 8 years ago. I used a double 1/2 in ply for the base for the top. Used wood drawer runners for all but the bigger bottom drawer where I used a 100 lb drawer guide. Finished with 3 coats of clear poly. Good and solid.

[Paul Greathouse]

Rick

It's been a while since I mounted my lift, so I don't remember the exact deminsions. When I get home tonight I'll measure the benchdog lift and post on this thread. I looked on the benchdog website and didn't see the deminsions. Also, I am not familiar with woodpecker other than looking at them on their website. I would imagine you could call benchdog tomorrow and they could tell you whether or not their lift will fit on the woodpecker table.

[Bartee Lamar]

Building one right now using NYW plans.

2 sheets 4x8 3/4" ply
1 sheet 4x8 1/2" ply
4x4 ft 1/4 ply ( drawer bottoms )

For the top....
the plans call for a top about 26" x 34" This can be 2 3/4" MDF or 1 1/2" + 1 3/4" MDF or Ply. This is topped with formica laminate.

You will need plumbing for the dust collection, however you choose to do it. I am using a 4" jointer dust collection plate which was $6 at wood craft.

3 18" full extension drawer slides.

you will need a drill bit slightly larger that 1/2" I had to purchase this.

I have purchased a rockler fence.

I am using a miter slide with t-track. I live in Atlanta so I can go by Peachtree woodworiking where I found this neat stuff.

I am using a woodpeck.com plunge lift that is about $170.

I got my MV12 from Amazon on a good day for about $140.

I am doing my wiring with 12/3 SJ cord, a duplex plug and a on/off switch from Grizzly.

My basement floor is not exactly level so I use heavy duty levelers from Woodcraft. NOT in the plan

There is also a bunch of oak for banding the top and putting facing on the 3/4" ply.

I do not want to try to add it all up but with everything it would be $500.

BUT I have enjoyed building it. It it the best cabinet work I have do so far. Everything is SQUARE. My Freud 508 dado is right on with plywood thickness.


If you have not done laminate on MDF it is a little challenging. DAMHIKT

If you use NYW drawings CHECK the drawer measurements. Make sure they work with your full extension hardware.

Overall the plans were a good investment. It is really nice to have exact cut lists.


Sorry I do not have a digital Camera, so none of this really happened :)

This is a really great shop project to increase your skills and end up with a really usefull tool.

[Al Killian]

Paul, I already have they plans. Just try ing to figure out what is going to cost and what others have udes for routers and lifts.:)