TS Top Dish - How much is too much?

[glenn bradley]

I know the first suggestion will be for me to get a set of feeler gauges but, since I don't have any right now let's try this. . . My new zip code saw (22124) has a dish that I can easily slip a piece of typing paper under, pretty much front to back on the right side of the blade throat. Closer to the throat I can slip two thicknesses of typing paper under. Would you call this within spec?


The top also has a small ding on the edge where the cast extension table will meet the top of such a type as it protrudes up. This I can fix with a few gentle strokes of a file but it will mar my otherwise uniform table and extension wing surface. Too picky; or should I ask for a new top?

TIA

Glenn

[Tim Morton]

what are you sliding the paper "under"...the fence? Or a true straight edge? And how are you sure the SE is not the problem? as for being too picky...thats sort of your call isn't it? If you are thinking new top, I would guess sears has a pretty loose tolerence on its TS's to prevent that kind of thing. Does it affect the cut?

[glenn bradley]

I've tried to minimize the possibility of the SE being the problem by picking a specific area that shows the dish and then checking the same spot at various point along the SE length. Pretty consistent as far as a piece of paper for a feeler gauge will tell. I haven't gotten to the cutting stage yet as others had reported this problem so I checked it prior to assembly.

Assuming a piece of paper is about .004" (according to the manufacturers) let's be generous and say my piece of paper is .002". That would be acceptable. But, even if my paper is .002", there is a section to the right of the blade throat that is double that.

I don't expect any real trouble while cutting panels but could see a problem on thin stock as this area is between the blade and the fence. I have seen WW mags blast manufacturers for this much dish but agree that Sears/Orion may just have these as acceptable tolerances and a new top will get me nothing.

Just looking for the thought of our esteemed Creekers.

[Chris McDowell]

Glenn,
I don't know how much that would really affect your work. Granted I'm trying to visualize your saw top in my mind,which coincidentaly is not to be confused Einstein's, but a human hair is about .003 thick. You could call on it and if you are not satisfied you should, but most pieces you'd be cutting would be lucky to be that flat. Remember wood moves.
I agree with Tim. Nothing wrong with being picky. You paid good money and should expect to be satisified.
Just my 2 cents.
Chris

[George Franklis]

Is there a possibility the top may flatten out a bit when you attach the top to the cabinet?

[Chris Padilla]

I think you should be fine, Glenn. Have you cut on it yet...tried some joints...they check out? Getting the fence parallel to the blade and miter slots is probably the chief concern and then making sure the fence is perpendicular to the top is next. Some dish is normal and shouldn't be a big deal.

The proof is always in the pudding: make some cuts!

[Bruce Page]

Glenn, I don't know what the Sears specs are but a typical piece of printer paper is indeed .004. As Tim alluded to, you need a true straight edge as a reference to really check the flatness of the table.

[Ron Blaise]

I know the first suggestion will be for me to get a set of feeler gauges but, since I don't have any right now let's try this. . . My new zip code saw (22124) has a dish that I can easily slip a piece of typing paper under, pretty much front to back on the right side of the blade throat. Closer to the throat I can slip two thicknesses of typing paper under. Would you call this within spec?


The top also has a small ding on the edge where the cast extension table will meet the top of such a type as it protrudes up. This I can fix with a few gentle strokes of a file but it will mar my otherwise uniform table and extension wing surface. Too picky; or should I ask for a new top?

TIA

Glenn
Glenn:
I have a lot of equipment precision ground in my course of business and a rull of thumb in (Blanchard type) grinding in .005 in 12". Precision surface grinding is considerably less than that at about .0005/.002 in 12". Considering the quality of the cast iron we get today,, what can I say?:mad:
Ron

[Al Willits]

Any chance the store may have one to compare with?

Try your auto parts store for a set of feeler gauges, I've seen them for under $10.

Haven't a clue if the dish will make any difference, but if you check other saws of the same brand and they are better or none are close, either return the saw or try a different brand and see how close they are?

Al

[Tim Morton]

ONe thing that has not been brought up yet...maybe because the saw is brand new...BUT, it is always possible to adjust the bolts that hold the top on. This will possibly release some tension and flatten out the table. But this may interfere with your ability to get a refund from sears if you shoose that direction.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks to all for the input, I'll continue this discussion on my original post at:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42240

With a good SE and feelers I have .004" here and there which I think is OK. For the length of the throat, down the right side I'm seeing .008" That one kinda bothers me. I'll play with it some more. As stated above, I'll continue this in the other thread.

Thanks again!