Hot handwheel! Off-center boring

[Gary DeWitt]

Hi, guys, I have a couple questions for you for a change. First, I'm turning on a delta midi, and after a couple hours of almost continuous running, I find the handwheel uncomfortably hot to the touch. I can still handle it, but warmer than I would expect. Since there is no unusual noise and no detectable end play, I have to assume the bearings are allright. Is there an adjustment to loosen up something around the spindle that may be too tight?

Second, I've been making some bud vases using those glass inserts. I need to bore a 3/4" hole about 4" deep (first before finish turning, of course) and have been using a spade bit, seems to work OK. However, after then bringing up a cone live center and finish turning it, the hole seems to be visibly off center. I don't see how this could be, since I used the hole to center the piece before turning!
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

[Corey Hallagan]

Man, I don't know about the handle. Bernie has a Delta midi but I don't know if that happens or not. Pick up a 3/4 inch forstener bit and see if the same problem exsists.... at least that is what I would do. Maybe that spade bit is flexing a bit. I may be wrong Gary but I don't think they are really designed for deep drilling, more for drilling thru holes ??

Corey

[Gary DeWitt]

Thanks for the reply Corey. The spade bit is just what I have to hand. I have forstner bits as well, but need an extension to get deep enough with one. It's been my experience that they tend to clog up more than spade bits (more "meat" at the end of the bit). Flex is probably the enemy here. I'll see if I can get an extension and give it another try.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Evening Gary.
I had a similar problem with my Jet Mini. What was wrong was that I had adjusted the hand wheel and belville type washer a little too tight. After loosening it a hair and relocking the set screws, things ran cool.

I don't know if the Delta is similar construction, but if it is, this might be the problem.

I believe that Cory is probably right about the Spade bit. I've had problems with them doing that just drilling studs for wire.

Bruce

[Corey Hallagan]

Gary the Jet is very similar in construction as the Delta, Bruce's info just might work! That is a problem with the forsteners.. but when drilling that deep you should clear out the chips often and drill in small amounts anyway. I need to get an extension too!

Corey

[Andy Hoyt]

Gary - I've always thought of spade bits as low end non precision bits to be used only in cases of dire emergency. And I don't much care for forstners in end grain either, especially larger sizes - too much heat and they dull quickly.

But I've had exceptionally good luck with good old fashioned HSS twist bits (all the way up to 1 1/2" in diameter) in end grain.

Not too keen on extensions if I want an accurate hole since I've never encountered an extension that didn't result in adding some eccentricity the the rotation.

You could probably find a 3/4" x 6" twist bit for 6 or 7 bucks just about anywhere.

[Mark Patoka]

Gary,
I had the same hot handwheel problem on my Jet mini that you have (my thread below). Like Bruce says, loosen the wheel, back it off a little bit and you shouldn't have a problem. The heat from mine was coming from friction.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10448

[Bernie Weishapl]

Gary had the same problem with my Delta Midi. Did the same as Bruce and Mark. Cured the problem. Also Gary I got the extension for the forstner bits because I could not keep spade bits on line due to the flex problem. I know they clog up faster but they also drill a much nicer hole and stay on line.

[Frank Fusco]

Can't help with the hot handwheel. But I make duck and game calls. This requires a lot of end grain boring into hard-hardwoods. I tried twist bits, spade bits, Forstners without success. Settled on brad point. Cuts accurately, cleanly and clears chips. A bore that large must be at slow speed and chips cleared regularly otherwise heat can build up quickly. For long, very deep, holes, use an extension.

[Richard Madison]

Gary,
Frank's suggestion (brad point) will probably work, but if not-- . Drill about 1-1/2" deep with the forstner. Switch to the spade or brad point and set the bit about 1" into the hole before starting the lathe. Start the lathe and finish drilling to depth. Back out a little and turn off the lathe before withdrawing the drill bit. After the lathe stops, withdraw the bit. This is to avoid distorting the entrance hole originally made by the forstner. And be sure your spade bit is sharp. After touching up some of mine on the grinder was surprised at what clean holes they would drill. Motor very gently when starting the hole.

[Gary DeWitt]

Thanks, everyone.
Andy - never would have thought of a twist drill, I'll try that out. If not that, maybe a brad point, I'm partial to those for most flat work.
Seems like I'm not the only one with a hot handwheel! I'll try backing it off a bit...

[Frank Fusco]

To follow up on Richard's post. I have found that Forstners simply do not cut well going end grain, particularly in hard-hardwoods. When I try with 3/4" or larger I get overheating and blueing of the bits almost immediately. And, yes, my drill press is at slow speed. That said, I see a wide variety of tooth and cutting edge styles on so-called 'forstner type' bits. There may be some that cut well end grain, I just dunno which ones. None I have found. Seems to me some manufacturer would produce a 'forstner type' specifically designed for end grain boring.

[Richard Madison]

Frank,
I use forstners in the lathe tailstock to bore endgrain holes to start the interior of pencil cups, goblets, or whatever. and they seem to do ok. Up to 2" diameter and 4" deep. However am turning at only 150 to 250 rpm, which is only a fraction of the recommended maximum speed. Usually drill about an inch of depth, withdraw the bit to clear the shavings and let the bit and the wood cool for a minute or so. Also have not done this on any of the really hard hardwoods.

[Gary DeWitt]

Well, you all were right about the handwheel. Apparantly, someone at the factory tightened it too much. I backed it off a half turn and it's much cooler. Thanks!

As far as the endgrain drilling, forstners seem to work ok in my latest project. Next deep hole I'm gonna try one of those old fashioned bits, as in brace and bit, see how that does. With the really wide flutes, perhaps the chips will clear better. They are certainly long enough for deep holes. Run at very low speeds, of course!

[Frank Fusco]

Well, you all were right about the handwheel. Apparantly, someone at the factory tightened it too much. I backed it off a half turn and it's much cooler. Thanks!

As far as the endgrain drilling, forstners seem to work ok in my latest project. Next deep hole I'm gonna try one of those old fashioned bits, as in brace and bit, see how that does. With the really wide flutes, perhaps the chips will clear better. They are certainly long enough for deep holes. Run at very low speeds, of course!

Auger. Yes, V-E-R-R-R-Y slow. Keep sharp. They can stick for no apparent reason. With power, you could break your work. This is a Neanderthal thing. With muscle power, you can feel when it is about to stick and back out. Check to make sure the shaft is perfectly straight. Sometimes when used by muscle power, user occasionally has a muscle head and will try to force when they get a stick, thereby bending the auger.

[Richard Allen]

Yep a ship auger would be my choice for a 3/4" and larger hole. The lead screw needs to be filed so the thres are gone. I will often drill a 3/8" pilot hole for the ship auger. Sharpeing a ship auger is fairly simple.

Good Luck