Bandsaw tension

[Frank Crooks]

I read the below link on how to determine blade tension and have tried to use it, but I can't seem to get the calliper to register anything. Does anyone have an idea of what I might be doing wrong. Thanks.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=198533#post198533

[glenn bradley]

I just use Suffolk Machinery's "flutter" method. No problems:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

[lou sansone]

I just use Suffolk Machinery's "flutter" method. No problems:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp
me too
lou

[Fred Woodward]

I've used both methods and use the caliper method for larger blades. The Timberwolf method worked on their blades to 5/8".
This is on a MM16 that I used the caliper method. I know I cannot tension that much on my 14" Rikon.
You did not say what saw you are using, but many if not most 14" saws won't put that much tension on a blade (according to "experts" on bandsaws that I have read).
It was my experience that the Timberwolf "flutter" method did work better on my smaller saw than heavier tension though.

[Dave Williams]

I use a trick i learned form my father; pluck the blade on the side that is going up, it should give a nice low note. however if you've never done this before you need to have had it set right so you know what the blade sounds like for next time.

[Aaron Beaver]

I just use Suffolk Machinery's "flutter" method. No problems:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

The last one says to detension your blade by turning the knob, but don't most have the lever on the back that detensions it? Mine does, so if I use that then I wouldn't have to touch the knob again right? Unless I change blades of course.

[tod evans]

I use a trick i learned form my father; pluck the blade on the side that is going up, it should give a nice low note. however if you've never done this before you need to have had it set right so you know what the blade sounds like for next time.


i`m a plucker too:rolleyes:

[Eddie Darby]

Three things come to mind that may be hampering things.

1- You need to set-up the caliper while the blade has next to No tension on it what-so-ever, just enough to keep the blade straight. If you have tension already and are within a few thousnd psi of the final setting, then you might be trying to measure something that is too fine for your caliper.

2- The caliper has to be in an "un-locked position", so that it can expand as the blade expands.

3- The caliper is measuring at 5" of opening, if you only open your caliper to say half that, 2 1/2" then you are trying to measure past the calipers range. In this case 0.0005" .

[Julio Navarro]

I just use Suffolk Machinery's "flutter" method. No problems:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

Me too, you only have to do it once, mark the guage on the side of the saw and tension to it when ever I use the band saw.

[Julio Navarro]

The last one says to detension your blade by turning the knob, but don't most have the lever on the back that detensions it? Mine does, so if I use that then I wouldn't have to touch the knob again right? Unless I change blades of course.

What I do is tension using the flutter when I change blades, I remove the table, loosen the cold blocks and run the flutter test. I then mark with a pencil on the tension guage on the saw. I always detension when not using the sdaw but when I use it I simply trension to the mark I made for that blade.