Glue ?

[Mike Sheppard]

I am thinking of trying Lee Valley's Cabinetmakers Glue the 2002GF. I have had all good stuff and service from them and this sounds good. I have had good luck with Titebond 2 but am aways looking for something better. If anyone has used this well you let me know how you liked it.
Mike

[Larry Fox]

I have used it and it is ok - not great but ok. It holds fine and all that. My primary knocks on it;

1) I recall it being a little pliable when dried. With Titebond, any squeeze-out can be chipped off with a chisel. The LV glue is a little tougher to get off.

2) The stuff I used dried brown which makes it really visible on light woods.

I went back to Titebond.

[Mack Cameron]

Hi Mike; I use LV's 202GF (gap filling) for dark woods. and Lepage's Carpenters Glue for light coloured woods.

I recall an independant study some years back where LV glue was rated in the 3500 pds shear range, Lepages Carpenters Glue is advertised as 2 tons of strength.

The trick to glue removal is to remove the excess no longer than 1/2 - 1 hr. dry time, before it has had the opportunity to completely dry. Methyl Hydrate (Wood Alcohol) is a great dissolver of not fully cured glue, if there is difficulty in scraping off.

I am under the impression that TiteBond's are for situations where moisture is present. TiteBond 3 being the only one that is waterproof, rather than water resistant.

[Bartee Lamar]

I find the LV glue to be thinner and a little harder to control. I am using Titebond II / III. It's thicker consistency works better for me.

[Richard Niemiec]

No knock on Lee Valley, but I've found Klingspor's yellow glue, at about $8 a quart, to be the best (non waterproof) general purpose glue around. Online at the woodworkingstore. No affiliation, just a satisfied user. RN

[Blaine Harrison]

What is it about Titebond that you don't like? What do you want your glue to do that Titebond won't do? What will you be using the glue for? These are questions that need to be answered before a good reply can be made.

Most glues used by woodworkers are PVA glues. They all have basically the same characteristics such as open time, setting time, strength, etc. The urethane glues (Titebond 3 or Gorilla Glue) have different, but similar characteristics and supposedly are waterproof (although I've had gorilla glue fail on a teak adirondack chair I made). Certain specialty glues will be gap filling, have longer open times, are made to glue oily exotics, are good with bent laminations, etc. The things you plan to use your glue for will help determine what glue may work best for you.

BTW, I'm no expert on glues, but there is enough literature out there to help you out. Wood Magazine, for one, has published a guide for using glues.

Blaine

[Dell Littlefield]

I bought it because I thought it had a longer open time. I found it about the same as the Titebond or Elmers. It did seem a little thinner which worked great in gluing up a box with box joints or dovetails. Shipping costs make it quite a bit more expensive than the others.

[Dick Latshaw]

Shipping costs make it quite a bit more expensive than the others.
Unless, of course, you are ordering a bunch of other stuff in an attempt to help put Rob Lee's kids through college. I like the glue - the open time has worked for me and I think it cleans up well.

[Mike Sheppard]

Its not that Titebond has not worked for me, it's that I am looking for something that works as well with more open time and better cleanup. From wat has been said here I will pass on it.
Thanks for the responces.
Mike

[Voytek Jarnot]

The urethane glues (Titebond 3 or Gorilla Glue) have different, but similar characteristics and supposedly are waterproof (although I've had gorilla glue fail on a teak adirondack chair I made).

Titebond 3 is PVA.

As to the original question, try a plastic resin glue - long open time, rock solid, no creep, long clamp time, powder must be mixed with water - which can be a hassle.

[Mike Sheppard]

Voytex
I have been thinking about trying plastic resin, watched D Marks use it a lot of times when he needed the time. I have a cradle job for coming greatgrand daughter to do soon and will need long open time to assamble it. Looks like I better get some and study up on it.
Thanks Mike



Titebond 3 is PVA.

As to the original question, try a plastic resin glue - long open time, rock solid, no creep, long clamp time, powder must be mixed with water - which can be a hassle.

[Jerry Olexa]

I 'm a big user of Titebond I,II and III. Works fine for me!!

[Mack Cameron]

will need long open time to assamble it.
Thanks Mike
Mike; I have a hunch your cradle has a lot of slats, that's why you need a long open time.
Here's a tip FWIW, only glue some of the slats at a time, either on the tops or the bottoms, it's your call, and maybe only some of the tops or bottoms on one side only. When you have finished gluing all the top or bottom slats on both sides, then you can glue up the opposites on both sides.
Clear as mud probably, I hope I've made myself understood. Maybe I'm assuming too much and this method won't work for you, it did for me, just thought I'd pass it along.

[Martin Shupe]

Its not that Titebond has not worked for me, it's that I am looking for something that works as well with more open time and better cleanup. From wat has been said here I will pass on it.
Thanks for the responces.
Mike

Personally, I have used LV glue and like it with cherry. No issues with it at all.

However, a couple years ago I started using "Old Brown Glue", which you mail order from San Diego. It is a hide glue that is good for one year. I like it on joints, good open time, cleans up with water, and it is repairable. Try some you will like it. Not cheap, but worth it, IMHO. I use about a bottle a year, and I like it. You don't have to worry about finishing issues that much using hide glue.

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=21822

When glue topics come up, I always like to post Mr. Smalser's intriuging thread.

I primarily use the Titebonds (II and the "longer open time" II) and I also have Gorilla Glue. For laminations, I like to use Unibond 800 and one of these days, I'll try the plastic resin glue that David Marks likes to use.

[Chris Barton]

While you have probably had more than an ear full of the glue opinions I will add mine as well. For complicated glue ups nothing beats plastic resin glue. PVA glue are fine for some things, I wouldn't use them to glue up a complex dovetail. I personally find the Titebond series glues to perform poorly in complex glue ups and even in day to day applications I prefer Probond PVA by Elmers.

[Brian Buckley]

Chris,
What Brand of plastic resin glue do you use?

Brian