Cutting 4x8 sheets?

[Al Willits]

OK, I did a search and probably missed the answer to my question, so sorry if this comes up a lot and I missed it, blame it on I'm still on my first cup of coffee...

How do you cut 4x8 sheets of plywood straight??

Remember I'm a newbie at this, and have discovered the 4x8 sheets of plywood from Menard's are not exactly straight, I discovered this after cutting a couple of sheets for a miter saw cabinet, seems to be either an error in my sawing, (used straight edge and skill saw) or the panels weren't straight to begin with, I'm thinking a little of both maybe, but I sure tried to make them square to the existing edges.

Anyway...I think once I get them down to a smaller size I can handle them on the table saw, table extensions are in the works btw
But is there a basic procedure to start with?
3/4" plywood is a bit to heavy to manhandle on a TS with out table extensions and I'm stuck with using a skill saw.

The panel saw set up I see in the lumberyards would be nice, but funding is a bit tight now, maybe a used set up someday.


I'm figuring just use a square and mark lines straight/square and recut the 4x8 so it is, but thinking there might be a better way??

As always...TIA
Al

[tod evans]

al, an aluminum extrusion works great to guide a skillsaw. there are ones marketed as saw guides or you can do like lots of us have for years and just butt the saw table against any ol` straight edge. mark s. uses an old window extrusion, i`ve used angle or square tubing or even another piece of known straight plywood, pretty much anything will work to get the parts into managable sized pieces untill you have saw extentions...02 tod

[Jeff Horton]

Build an inexpensive saw guide. (http://www.kudzupatch.com/woodshop/saw_guide/)

[Nissim Avrahami]

Or build something like this one
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36808
included in the above post is, marking and setting method that will give you better results than a pencil mark.

niki

[Brad Townsend]

Even using a sawguide, I tend to cut it a little bit oversize, and then trim it to exact size on the table saw. I don't like the edge my circular saw leaves.

[Bartee Lamar]

I always have HD use their panel saw and cut down 4x8 sheets into manageable pieces.

Depending on the project it gets ripped length wise or cross cut into managable pieces

I can handle up to 47" width on my TS and can get accurate cuts.


This is my saw setup. It is can old Craftsman contractor saw.

46296

[Hugh Jaskok]

I like to use a circular saw and a straight edge. I lay the sheet of ply on a sheet of that styrofoam insulation and set the saw depth to not cut through the styrofoam. Makes the ply easier/safer to handle and break down.:)

[Neil Lamens]

Hey Al:

Seems we all use a combination of skillsaw with guide and TS. I use a True-Grip clamp as my guide when I decide to cut into smaller pieces for handling. But only age keeps me from just using the table saw. If my cutting list is a full day and I want to work the next........I have to manage my body as much as a 4X8 sheet; and I go over size and smaller piece. Now smaller may be just one cut that breaks the sheet into lets say 2 pcs 4X4.

If I'm just cutting up 5 sheets, its right to the TS.


Also, if I find I'm looking for a good square edge, I'll set-up that Tru-Grip clamp square and router.

Neil

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Al,
I have done this two ways, the cheap way and the fun way...

The cheap way is to take a straight board, piece of aluminum, whatever, and glue or screw it to a piece of hardboard. Leave room for clamps on the left of the straight piece and room for the width of the saw on the right. Run your circular saw against the straight piece to cut thru the hardboard. The edge of the hardboard is now your guide for where the saw will cut. Take this to your sheet goods, mark where you want the cut and clamp it down on both ends. This costs next to nothing and will give you straight cuts if you pay close attention to keeping the saw against the straight piece.

The fun way is Festool. Its not cheap, but way less than a panel saw. The festool saw runs along a guide, but a channel in the bottom of the saw fits a ridge in the guide, so it will not waiver from straight. The festool also has integrated dust control, so you can cut a dozen sheets of ply and have maybe a couple of teaspoons of dust on the floor. I love that part. THe festool is a plunge saw, so you can start the cut in the middle of the sheet. The saw has a built in riving knife so the sheet wont bind the saw in a closing kerf. Also, the guide 'sticks' gently to the sheet so you don't have to clamp. Sorry if this sounds like an advertisement, but I find this just about the perfect tool for my one man hobby shop.

Another option is to build your own panel saw. There are plans floating around on the internet and I recall seeing a couple of catalogs (Rockler, I think) offering the aluminum hardware for a panel saw setup.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Jess

[Rob Diz]

As an intermediate point between building your own guide system and buying festool, you can look at the EZ Guide set-up. It takes a bit of work to get it set up with your CS, but once you are there, it is actually quite a nice set-up. Repeatable accurate cuts.

Even if you don't go with this system, I suggest that you upgrade the blade on your CS to the 40 tooth Frued Diablo. It's around $15 at the Borg, and cuts veneer woods like butta.

[Jim Becker]

I now uses a guided saw system for this purpose...

[Thomas Canfield]

I added a piece of 2" lumber to the edge of the left table extension to clear the original fence rails for my Delta contractor saw. You need to shim if required to have the outside edge parallel to the blade. I was then able to clamp a longer straight edge under the sheet at the distance from the blade and use the outer edge of the table as a guide. That worked reasonably well. Changing to a Beismeyer fence and adding extension to the table has eliminated most of the problems, but the old board is still there and gets used on occasion still when something is blocking use of the full table otherwise.

[Al Willits]

Thanks all, I'm currently using the tru grip set up and that works ok, just have to work on keeping the CS tight to the tru grip, but I'm either doing something wrong or the 4x8 sheets aren't square, like I said before, probably a bit of both... :)

I guess I'm looking for a decent/cheap way of starting with as straight a cut as possible, maybe a do it yourself panel saw is the way to go, be nice to do it with the table saw but it seems most set up for that are very spendy.

I'll look into the EZ guide and the other suggestions, mainly need something to cut right angles/whatever and be able to do this with the full sheet till I can hack it down to a size I can handle better.
I'll try cutting a bit over sized then use the TS to get it square, I can see table extensions are getting to be a top priority.. :)

Al

[Mike Cutler]

Al.

Jeff Horton has the right solution. One thing to add to Jeff's setup is to make a 90 deg reference on one end of the straight edge. This way it's self aligning. Think big drywall T-square.

Nissim. I really like the dust shroud on your circular saw. Got a few more pic's of that setup somewhere?

[Nissim Avrahami]

Yes Mike, here it is
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37289
If you need a pic with the cover removed, just ask.

Regards
niki

[Mark Pruitt]

Al, by Tru-Grip I assume you are referring to the "Clamp 'N Tool Guide." Just as a heads up, always be sure to check it for side-to-side play once you "tighten" it. I have six of these. One has developed a bit of play and I have to remember not to use it for a cutting guide. It's way out of warranty and has been used considerably, so I'm not dinging them for it at all, just mentioning this as a safety tip.

I like Jeff's and Niki's solutions. Inexpensive, workable, and they don't take up valuable space. When I get a Round Tuit someday I'll make one.:p Meanwhile, when I just need a quick and dirty way of cutting down the long side of a 4x8 sheet, I just clamp a straight board in the proper place and use my PC circular saw (which, BTW, has good DC when used with the vacuum hose that PC makes for it). Unless LOML happens to be close by, in which case I ask her to help me guide it through the Unisaw.;)

Mark

[John Lucas]

Al,
This is an interesting thread. The problem is one that we have addressed many times but you can see that we still look to the answers. One thing you mentioned was that the full panel may not be square. I suppose that is possible but very, very unlikely. If I were you, I would assume that the 4 x 8 panel is square.
I use the Festool system and love it, but you always have to measure, once, twice, thrice...whatever it takes to get things right.
There are a number of how-to pages on this subject here: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm
Here is Beth using the setup:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/euro-216.jpg

[Al Willits]

Mark, yes your right, its the Clamp and Tool guide, and I'll keep an eye out for play, considering I've just got it, hopefully won't be for awhile... :)

I can see a big Tee Square would help in making sure of 90 cuts, thanks.
Any recommendations on a good one?

Any way to do 3/4" 4x8"s on a table saw with out spending a lot of money, its not always easy to get help and I could use a way that works with one person, adding ex tables will help I bet, also maybe a extension on the fence??

Al .. who just found out this weekend, when making a miter saw cabinet off of plans on the web.....make sure the cabinet is big enough for your saw....:D

[tod evans]

al, when i cut sheetgoods on a conventional saw i used extention tables 52" to the right of the blade and 48" behind the saw. never had a problem getting dead straight cuts (unless the fence moved). just keep everything waxed well and it`s not very hard....02 tod

[Jim Bell]

You might also check your saw blade. If it is dull or the one that actually came with the saw that is at least part of the problem. Hope this helps,
Jim

[Burt Waddell]

OK, I did a search and probably missed the answer to my question, so sorry if this comes up a lot and I missed it, blame it on I'm still on my first cup of coffee...

How do you cut 4x8 sheets of plywood straight??

Remember I'm a newbie at this, and have discovered the 4x8 sheets of plywood from Menard's are not exactly straight, I discovered this after cutting a couple of sheets for a miter saw cabinet, seems to be either an error in my sawing, (used straight edge and skill saw) or the panels weren't straight to begin with, I'm thinking a little of both maybe, but I sure tried to make them square to the existing edges.

Anyway...I think once I get them down to a smaller size I can handle them on the table saw, table extensions are in the works btw
But is there a basic procedure to start with?
3/4" plywood is a bit to heavy to manhandle on a TS with out table extensions and I'm stuck with using a skill saw.

The panel saw set up I see in the lumberyards would be nice, but funding is a bit tight now, maybe a used set up someday.


I'm figuring just use a square and mark lines straight/square and recut the 4x8 so it is, but thinking there might be a better way??

As always...TIA
Al

Al,

There is at least a thousand ways to break down sheet goods and sometimes I feel like I have tried all of them. The absolute easiest way is to use the EZ Smart Cabinet maker. It is a combination of a guide rail with a square and measuring device attached. You can forget about your pencil and Tape measure and enjoy woodworking. While you could use it for a cut just to reduce the size of the board so you could take it to the table saw, why not do the finished cut and move on. Cut quality is great. One of the fellows that works for me is still raving about being able to cut formica good side up and get no chipping.

Here is a link to some info on the cabinet maker. http://eurekazone.com/gallery/The-EZ-Cabinet-Maker

[photo properties] (http://eurekazone.com/gallery/view_photo_properties.php?set_albumName=The-EZ-Cabinet-Maker&index=3&gallery_popup=true)


http://eurekazone.com/gallery/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://eurekazone.com/gallery/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://eurekazone.com/albums/The-EZ-Cabinet-Maker/sliding_repeaters_002.sized.jpg (http://eurekazone.com/gallery/The-EZ-Cabinet-Maker/sliding_repeaters_002?full=1)http://eurekazone.com/gallery/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://eurekazone.com/gallery/images/pixel_trans.gif





RSS (http://eurekazone.com/gallery/rss.php)

Burt

[Neil Lamens]

Hi Al:


Your Table Saw is where you want to get, so cut with a combination of your True-Grip squared up with a Framers Square. Place the short blade ("handle" if it were a Try-square) on the factory edge at your proper saw base to blade distance, then push your True-Grip up against it. Squeeze the slide end up against plywood, then lock. Check your dimensions at each end of True-Grip. Remember you just want it into manageable pieces.

As for a way to just cut from the TS.......... down and dirty extensions can be sturdy saw-horses with a 1/2 ply board clamped at the height of your TS. Place them, slightly angled, where you need the aid in holding...ie: one behind the saw, one in front of saw. Pick it up and move it if you need aid cross cutting a sheet.

I've had a Black and Decker Shopmate from the 70's, that I clamp a piece of 1/4" ply into that I've dedicated the better part of 20 years to, when I don't have my wife to tail.

Hope that helps............Neil

[Neil Lamens]

Hi Al:


Your Table Saw is where you want to get, so cut with a combination of your True-Grip squared up with a Framers Square. Place the short blade ("handle" if it were a Try-square) on the factory edge at your proper saw base to blade distance, then push your True-Grip up against it. Squeeze the slide end up against plywood, then lock. Check your dimensions at each end of True-Grip. Remember you just want it into manageable pieces.

As for a way to just cut from the TS.......... down and dirty extensions can be sturdy saw-horses with a 1/2 ply board clamped at the height of your TS. Place them, slightly angled, where you need the aid in holding...ie: one behind the saw, one in front of saw. Pick it up and move it if you need aid cross cutting a sheet.

I've had a Black and Decker Shopmate from the 70's, that I clamp a piece of 1/4" ply into that I've dedicated the better part of 20 years to, when I don't have my wife to tail.

Hope that helps............Neil

[Jerry Olexa]

Good sugs above but I just clamp a straight edge to the big sheet on horses and get it down to manageable sizes(slightly oversized)Then head to my TS panel sled for accurate, square cuts . Works for me...

[Julio Navarro]

Take a look at this Al
http://www.ptreeusa.com/allinoneclamp.htm#C332

it looks pretty affordable

[Al Willits]

The circular saw plate looks like it'll help and cheap too.. :)

The EZ Smart looks nice also but can't quite figure what I'd need for a basic set up and what's a repeater??

Festool also looks nice, once again, be nice to see what a basic set up entails.

So many choices, an X-mas is still months away...:D

The 4x8's are normally straight?????
So much for blaming the Borg.... :D

Looks like I will probably pick up a Tee square and the saw plate, not much money and it looks like it'll help.
I'd like to look into the two systems (ez and festool) a bit more and see which one will work best, for whatever it is I'm doing out in the garage....

Least wises now I have a better understanding of where to go..thanks

Al

[Bruce Wrenn]

August 2000, FWW had an article on circular saw in woodworking shop. Author used a homemade guide on a sacrificial table. It was an open grid of 2X4s on a set of banquet table legs. He reccomended that you check that saw's base is parrallel to blade. Also use a 40 tooth carbide blade. I like the better Dewalt saw as base can be adjusted. I find the Diablo 40 tooth blade from BORG to be more than adequate. After making my homemade ply rip guide, and cutting with saw, I took it to TS and ripped it to exactly 10" wide. Now I can measure to either side, only adding 10" from the non saw side.

[Burt Waddell]

The circular saw plate looks like it'll help and cheap too.. :)

The EZ Smart looks nice also but can't quite figure what I'd need for a basic set up and what's a repeater??

Festool also looks nice, once again, be nice to see what a basic set up entails.

So many choices, an X-mas is still months away...:D

The 4x8's are normally straight?????
So much for blaming the Borg.... :D

Looks like I will probably pick up a Tee square and the saw plate, not much money and it looks like it'll help.
I'd like to look into the two systems (ez and festool) a bit more and see which one will work best, for whatever it is I'm doing out in the garage....

Least wises now I have a better understanding of where to go..thanks

Al

Al,

Let me see if I can help a little with your questions. The EZ repeater is most closely related to the function of a fence on a table saw. Once it is set you can make repeat cuts of the same size thus it is called a "repeater". When used with a guide rail only, 2 repeaters are used. When combined a guide rail, A sliding square and a repeater make a "Cabinet maker".

Probably the most often purchased "basic" set for EZ Smart is the SGS-1 or the 100" Smart Kit. It has 2 - 50" guide rails, 2 smart clamps, 2 inserts, 2 rail connectors, and the base plate for the saw. List price for this set is $189 but you can often find it for less. Right now it is on sell for 10% off.

If you are looking for a real bargain basement way to get started with the EZ, YOu could just get the base plate and a flat insert. Combine this with a decent blade and you will get a super cut. You can use it with any straight edge. Cost would be about $28.50 plus shipping.

I don't want to be disagreeable, but most people do recommend that you square up a sheet of plywood before you use it. In fact some of the companies are now selling their plywood in 97" x 48 1/2" sheets so that you can do that and still have a usable 4' x 8' sheet.

If you have further questions about the EZ smart, stop in at the Forum here on sawmill creek and ask. We'll find an answer for you.

Burt

[Chris Padilla]

Al,

I just close one-eye and let the Skil saw have at it! ;) The saw has yet to fail me.... :p

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

***This is what I used to do, now I have a Festool TS55, and I use that, but this works, and is cheap!!***

When I've got to slice up some plywood, I used this method for a fairly long time, I got good, not great results from it.
If I was careful, I could cut acurately, but, on some more crucial pieces, I'd cut them a tad large, and run them throug the TS, just in case

Remember the plywood I use here is smaller than in the US or Canada, only 182 cm x 91 cm, (just a hair under 6' x 3').
I've got a cutting jig, it is about 12" wide, and 1/2" thick, with a second strip on top of it to guide the circular saw.

I think this is a common jig to use, you put the top strip on so when you run the base of the circular saw against it the first time it will cut off just a
bit of the main board, this will give you an edge exactly where the saw will cut.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/ready_to_cut.jpg
You can see the jig here clamed up and ready to go.
I put a piece of plywood on top of my bench, this plywood is the cutting table, it gets sliced up just a bit on each cut, so eventually it
will have to be replaced, but so far I've got about 2 years out of this one sheet.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/topside_cutting_table.jpg
To make it easier to clamp things, I stand the sheet off the benchtop with some 2x4s

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/underside_cutting_table.jpg
The 2x4s are held in place by two screws on each board, the screws are counter sunk into the plywood so I cannot hit them easily with the saw.
A couple of things, before I start, I like to check my tape measure, it amazes me how off they can get in time.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/checking_tape_measure_pull.jpg
I have a good quality 60cm steel rule that I use, this tape is right on the money on the pull measurement using the hook on the tape on the edge of a board, but.....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/inside_measure_tape.jpg
on the push check, where the hook would be pushed, like on an inside measurement, this tape is off (I need to get a new tape measure!!)

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/sheet_ready_to_cut.jpg
Here is a nice new sheet of plywood on the cutting table ready to cut, but first...

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/mark_factory_edges.jpg
I go around it and mark the factory edge with a pencil, this helps later if I'm running pieces through the TS,
I can always run a factory edge against the TS fence to make sure it is all straight

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/need_good_brush.jpg
It also helps to have a good brush around, especially if you don't have dust collection on your saw like me
(Something I plan to do in the future!) This brush is a tire brush, it had a hose fitting on the handle, that I cut off,
so water could go from the hose through the handle of the brush and out the head of the brush. It works great, and cost very little.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/sandpaper_grip_strip.jpg
To make sure nothing moves around when clamped, I ran a strip of sandpaper on the underside of the jig, it is held in place by thin double sided tape.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/clamp.jpg
I make my measurements, and then carefully clamp the cutting jig in place.
On a thin board like this one, I use some scraps a spacers under the clamps to make sure the jig stays flat.

Cont..........

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/clamp_close_up.jpg
Here you can see the advantage of the cutting table being held off the bench by the 2x4s,
this makes it easy to clamp anywhere around the circumference of the cutting table.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/box_to_stand_on.jpg
As my workbench is a little tall for this kind of thing,
I make sure I have a good solid box to stand on, so I can do the cut in one motion.
Make sure your cord does not get snagged on anything.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/finished_cut.jpg
There, a finished cut.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/sheet_goods/sheet_goods_rack_cuttting_table.jpg
When I'm not using the cutting table I just store it in my sheet goods rack.

Well, that is what I used to do, but now, I have a Festool TS55 and rail system, and it works VERY well
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/wine_shelves/wine_shelf_festoolcut2.jpg

[Al Willits]

Lots of good stuff, thanks all.

I see I should prep for the cut a bit better and set it up so maybe I can do the entire cut at one time and be in control while I'm doing the cut, problem I'm having is my arms aren't long enough to cut the 8' lenght from one spot and I end up pulling the CS towards me for the last couple of feet or so, I'm having a bit of difficulty keeping the saw tight against the straight edge/clamp.
I'm thinking the saw holder that also has a groove for the clamp & tool will help that.
Also off for a new blade, my blade is new but only has about 24 teeth, someone mentioned 36/40 and that's for the 7.5" blade...right??

I have the feeling much of this is just finding what works best for me, but with all the suggestions I'm betting I won't go though quite as much plywood, which will be nice as the "good stuff" is more than a bit expensive.

Al

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Al

Please have a look at this post
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42125

Buy a few of those Styrofoam plates, spread them on the floor, put the ply on top of them and you can seat and walk on the ply while cutting.

Regards
niki

[Joe Branch]

I always have HD use their panel saw and cut down 4x8 sheets into manageable pieces.

Depending on the project it gets ripped length wise or cross cut into managable pieces

I can handle up to 47" width on my TS and can get accurate cuts.


This is my saw setup. It is can old Craftsman contractor saw.

46296
How do you get a 47" width cut capability with your Craftsman saw? Did you sacrifice cuts to the left of the blade or add a additional fence guide extension? Thanks for your response. I have been pondering which way to set up the Craftsman table saw to maximize cut width and minimize floor space.

Joe

[Bart Leetch]

This is what I use to cross cut 4 x 8 sheets. When I got it I only got the frame work & had to add a 7 1/2" circular saw. It only cost me $100. Its the BEST $100 dollars I ever spent on my back.

Sorry it an old picture & a little fuzzy.

[Al Willits]

OK, I've done some digging and it looks like the Festool set up is over $400, to much for me, the EZ Smart seems to have a couple of choices, the Cabinet makers set for $144, and the Smart Guide package 100" for $189, these prices are with out looking for any deals.

Any thoughts on which EZ smart system would be prefered?

I'm thinking on trying and make a guide, but I like the EZ system and can almost afford it...:)

btw, went out and bought a 40 tooth blade, only to find I had already done that...well if nothing else, I now have a spare.. :)

TS extensions are up for next week, when I'm on vacation...

Al .. .. who thinks he's spending more time making stuff to make stuff, than actually making stuff....:D

[Mike Weaver]

<snip>

I'm thinking on trying and make a guide, but I like the EZ system and can almost afford it...:)

Al .. .. who thinks he's spending more time making stuff to make stuff, than actually making stuff....:D
That's one of the main reasons I'm looking at a Guided Circular Saw System.
I tend too much to be the 'Hey, I can make a blurfl, rather than buy it.' and THAT has eaten my precious shop time.

-Mike
PS I'm leaning the EZ way as well.

[Rob Diz]

Keep on leaning. I just spent the weekend breaking down 25 sheets of ply for cabinets. Off the pickup on to the cutting table, then off to the Uni (when the cut was less than 30).

You will spend a little bit of time getting the EZ set-up working with your CS, but it was worth it for me.

Many swear by the repeatability add-on as well as the square for the EZ guide. Frankly, I measured every cut with tape a few times to make sure it was square. Using the factory edge as a straightedge can be tricky. The repeater only went to 24 inches, which wasn't quite enough for me.

All in all though, it was a worthwhile purchase. I don't know that I could have handled that many sheets of ply without a solid edge guided system - and the way EZ is set up, with a ZCI, you know where the cut will be,and can account for the 1/16 of an inch kerf on the Frued Diablo if needed.

[Burt Waddell]

OK, I've done some digging and it looks like the Festool set up is over $400, to much for me, the EZ Smart seems to have a couple of choices, the Cabinet makers set for $144, and the Smart Guide package 100" for $189, these prices are with out looking for any deals.

Any thoughts on which EZ smart system would be prefered?

I'm thinking on trying and make a guide, but I like the EZ system and can almost afford it...:)

btw, went out and bought a 40 tooth blade, only to find I had already done that...well if nothing else, I now have a spare.. :)

TS extensions are up for next week, when I'm on vacation...

Al .. .. who thinks he's spending more time making stuff to make stuff, than actually making stuff....:D

Al,

Either the cabinet maker or the 100" set would make a good starting point for the EZ System. I personally would recommend getting the 100" set and a square. That will give you the best of both worlds. I believe the square is $65. Also right now Dino has a 10% off sale in progress. Check the EZ sight, get the phone number and give Dino a call. Tell him what you want to do and he will be more thsn happy to help you figure out the most economical way to do it. (I've heard several comment that Dino saved them money by recommending a different item that would accomplish the same task for a lower cost).

Burt

[Al Willits]

EZ it is then, just still trying to figure which kit to buy.

I can leave the CS with the EZ set up, so that might help, I use the CS mainly just for plywood anyway.

I looked at pannel saws, but they look like they take up to much room for me, think garage/car/wife...

We are starting to remodel the kitchen in a week or so, and I'll be doing a fair bit of plywood work, gives me a reason to tell o'shebeast I need another tool.... :)

Al....who thinks the beatings will stop, once I get the new appliances out of the garage and into the kitchen....:D

[Mack Cameron]

Al.
Think big drywall T-square.

Mike and Al; don't for one minute think those things are square. OK for drywall maybe, not for sheet goods that you intend constructing something from.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Burt, was kinda leaning towards the 100" set, I'll give him a call and see what he thinks.

Is Dino from the company or dealer?
Can't find a listing for him.
Al

[Jerry White]

Al,

I too have dealt with Dino. He is the inventor, company owner, demonstrator, and salesman. I have found him to be more concerned that you get setup properly at the best price than concerned with making the biggest sale. This is the web address: www.eurekazone.com (http://www.eurekazone.com). The phone number is: 732-259-9984.

Good luck!

Jerry

[Greg Griswold]

I just cut up a couple of 4x8 sheets this weekend. As you said, they are not square from the big box. I used my drywall square to mark a line close to one of the long sides. I then set up saw guides (in my case, I have a Festool circular saw and guides) and cut along the long side. This gave me 2 surfaces that are pretty close to 90 degrees. I then measured the other two sides from these and used the saw guide to make the other cuts. Ended up with a piece of plywood cut to size and pretty close to square.

Greg

[Al Willits]

Once again I gotta say thanks to all, I'll call Dino and get started on getting the set up I need.
Also thanks to Greg, I don't feel quite so bad now....:)

Al

[Al Willits]

OK, called Dino and I can tell ya for sur, he's not from Minnesota...ya sur u betcha!!:D

Not exactly sure what he all said, but he was friendlier than most, I think he suggested the 100" kit with a square, and I think he mentioned a attachment for cross cutting and that he had extras and would throw one in...anyway all this came to some number and he gave 10%, then sounded like he cut me an even better deal, and ended up with a total of about $230... I'll order one next week just to see what the heck I'm getting...:D

Pretty nice guy btw.

Al ... who thinks being partially deaf and from the land of Scandinavians may be part of the problem...:)

[glenn bradley]

I never consider a factory edge to be straight. Occaisionally I used to get lucky and that led me to trust them again. Usually I ended up sorry. Now I always rip my own reference edge. I use a shopmade guide as described in this thread; one piece of wood with a straight piece laminated to the top lengthwise, run your saw along the straightedge cutting the base piece off to give you a reference exactly where that particular blade will cut. I bought a few spare blades of the same make and model so I didn't have to re-make the jig for awhile.