Need RIP Blade TODAY!

[Jim Hoelzel]

Hi All.

I am trying to get some progress on my kitchen this week. We have decided to go with a decorative leg style cabinet, just like the one that was in Workbench magazine last October. The only problem is that my blade is burning the wood while cutting. I have a Freud Glue Line Rip blade (LM74R) that has worked pretty well on this type of chore. It has been cleaned and inspected with no visual defects. I am using 4/4 quarter sawn red oak, with the straightest grain I could find for this project.

Any locals know where I could drive and get a GREAT rip blade today? I live in Pekin and would be willing to drive a couple hours to purchase one. And the wife has just added that - hold on to your seat.... PRICE is not really an object!

Thanks!

Jim

[scott spencer]

I'd start by spending a couple of minutes double checking your fence to blade alignment. The LM74 isn't necessarily intended for heavy ripping of thick stock, but it should go through 4/4" QSRO with enough horsepower behind it. If your saw is smaller than a full 3hp, you should consider going with a 24T thin kerf with FTG teeth if you can find one...if not, even an 24T TK ATB grind should be ok. Examples that should be easy to find from most wwing stores....DeWalt DW7124TK, Freud LU87R010, CMT, or even the Freud Diablo 1024x should work ok and is available at most HD's for < $30. If your saw is 3hp+, a regular kerf should work well....Freud LM72, DW7124, Amana, Systimatic, CMT, Infinity, Everlast.

Make a few phone calls before you drive....maybe check with a good local sharpener, Rockler, Woodcraft, Lowes, HD, Sears, Menards, etc. You might even consider going with a 7-1/4" blade if you can't find a 10" that's suitable.

Edit:
It looks like A&I Supply is near you:
A & I SUPPLY
401 RADIO CITY DRIVE
NORTH PEKIN, IL 61554
800-260-2647
POWER TOOLS

The top choice for contractors who want a smooth finish when ripping perfect joints. Diablo's thin kerf requires less power from your saw, so it's the perfect blade for portable tools. Laser-cut stabilizer vents for reduced vibration and precise cuts Durable MicroGrain Titanium Carbide for razor sharp cuts and long life Perma-SHIELD™ permanent coating is a superior aluminum alloy coating that helps reduce friction, heat build-up, gumming, and is resistant to rust, which add up to longer blade life. Laser-cut thin kerf gives fast, clean cuts

10" x 24ATB x 5/8" arbor, .098 kerf, .071 plate

SALE PRICE
$26.60
#FRD D1024X
List Price: $42.85
http://ai-supply.com/images/items/FRDD1024X.JPG

[Tom Jones III]

It doesn't get much better than the blade you are using. Has it been sharpened recently? If the blade is sharp, then I would carefully adjust your TS.

What TS do you have and how much HP?

Take a look at this thread that asked the same question. There were some good answers
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=29597

[Bill Esposito]

Actually the LM74 is designed for optimum performance in 3/4" or less. It gets its "glue line" finish by having a lot of teeth in the wood and burnishing the cut. Put that blade in thicker wood and you'll have even more teeth in the wood when cutting so I think burning is more likely.

That being said it is just as likely to be your fence alignment.

[Ralph Barhorst]

This usually works for me.
1. Make the first rip cut about 1/16" wider than the required width for the board.
2 Readjust the fence for the correct width and run the piece through again taking off the 1/16".

This usually leaves a very smooth cut without any burning.

If this still does not work then the table saw needs adjusting.

[Jim Hoelzel]

Hi Scott. I have re-adjusted the saw again. Replaced Rip-Line blade with another 24 tooth frued thin kerf blade. Tried ripping again, with same results:mad:.

A&I has been closed down. Wish it was still around, usually caried some cool stuff.

Thanks for the reply!

Jim

[Jim Hoelzel]

Hi Tom.

I have a Jet 2 hp. cabinet saw. I have ripped a bunch of wood on this thing, and never had this much trouble:eek:.

Thanks for the reply!

Jim

[Charles McCracken]

Jim,

Is the burning on one side only? If so which side?

[Jim Hoelzel]

Hi Charles.

The burning is from front to back and top to bottom.

I did try what Ralph suggested today: Rip the board 1/16 wide and the feed back thru. And this did elimate the burning, but there was still no way that I could of glued back up from here.

I really need to cut my loses on waste if I want to make the legs look correct. So really cutting wide and trimming is not going to work for me.

Thanks,

Jim

[Charles McCracken]

Jim,

Is the burning on both the good piece and the waste piece? If not, then alignment is the primary culprit, The fact that you are having the same issue with both the 24T and the 30T blades makes me think the problem is either with fence alignment or with the splitter.

[Jesse Cloud]

If you have a bandsaw, rip it 1/32 proud and take it to the jointer. One pass with the jointer set at 1/32 should clean it up and leave the sides parallel. Plus, if waste is a concern, the bs blade has a much thinner kerf and wastes way less.