New Workbench Questions

[Richard Goodwin]

I am making a new workbench from 120mm x 55mm European Beech. The finished size will be 2100mmx750mm. To make most economical use of the timber I have laminated the main section of the top from 110mm widths of timber. The finished thickness of this laminated section however is only 45mm. To compensate for the thin top I am planning on using 2 lengths of 110mmx45mm laminated together for the front and back aprons, with 20mmx20mm dog holes routed into one of these pieces, and a single thickness of 110mmx45mm for the end pieces of the apron (I think they are called cleats). I am also planning on having packers between the laminated top and the trestles, and blind mortising them into the front and back of the apron. I have two second hand vices; a Record 53 1/2 front vice and a Record 52 end vice.

I have 4 questions:
1. Can I glue and screw the apron ends onto the ends of the laminated section of the bench, or am I asking for trouble due to expansion/contraction of the laminated section?
2. How should I join the cleats to the front and back pieces of the apron? Is a half lap joint ok, or should I use some form of large dovetail.
3. Should I glue the packers to the underneath of the laminated section, or is this also a problem due to movement of the laminated top?
4. Should I slope the dog holes by 2 degrees or so, or is this more trouble than its worth?

As you may guess I’m fairly new to woodwork, but keen to learn.

[Rolf Safferthal]

You mean that you glued the top from 120 x 55 mm lumber using 110 mm wide planks? If that is true you might have more or less horizonal ring orientation. Thats leads to the largest possible expansion/contaction in width if humidity changes.

Normally one would have ripped the planks into strips of - for example - 60 millimeters, turned them vertical and glue them together. Moves most of the changes due to humidity change in the direction of top thickness where it isn´t that critical.

You can glue the aprons, but no end caps or other wood with a grain orientation rectangular to the top´s orientation.. At least not over the whole length.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Rolf that continuing your aprons on the ends will likely be problematic. That said, you might get away with building up the thickness with wood in the same orientation (and material) as your top to keep movement consistent across the width.

[Richard Goodwin]

Thanks for the advise, I might be best to rip the glued up bench top as suggested. Should have asked this question earlier on! has anyone got suggestions for my other questions?

[Alan Turner]

The 2 degree slope of the dog holes is appropriate.

The end caps on the benches I have built were joined by tongue and groove, and bolted with a captured nut. Usually 1/2" by 6". The one at the front is in a proper sized hole, but the middle and rear ones are installed in oval holes to permit movement, but to force that movement to the back of the bench.