Question about temporary "router table" for Bosch 1617 router

[Michael Adelong]

I have a small project to do today and a router table for my shop is still in the "mind's eye" phase of development. I need to mount the fixed base of my 1617 to something that I can toss on a set of sawhorses for the afternoon.

I have some 1/2" and 3/4" MDF laying around that I could use for the top. I removed the plastic cover from the fixed base and found that the screws holding it on are only about 1/2" long. I've looked all over here for some longer screws that would fit. No joy.

If I drill & countersink the 3 mounting holes 1/4" deep into the 1/2" MDF (or 1/2" deep into the 3/4" MDF), I should be able to get the router mounted with the existing screws. I have about 200 lineal feet of stock to run through it, about 5' at a time. This will probably take a few hours, and I will be starting & stopping the router between 30 and 40 times.

Do ya'll think those 3 holes be strong enough to hold up for the day for this operation? I'd hate to have the router fall through and hit the floor while I am working. I'm uncertain about the strength of that 1/4" of MDF remaining between the screw heads and the router base.

Thanks,
Michael

[Mike Cutler]

What kind of wood, and how big is the cutter?

If the wood is a lite, like pine or something, and you're just trying to make a profile on the edge, then it may work.

If you're going to use a raised panel bit set on oak, or maple then I don't think it will work. I think you are going to have more problems with the router loosening up in the holes, and your bit not giving a consistent profile

Do you have hardware store, or a Home Depot nearby? They should have a collection of "Sharon Kits" You might be able to find the bolts that you need in these kits. They're probably metrics. I finally got tired of the metric screws, and tapped the bases of my routers with a 10-32 tap.

[Michael Adelong]

Thanks Mike. It is 1/2" red oak. I'll actually be using 3 bits, a 1/4" beading bit for one edge, a small "V" bit to make a 1/8" deep groove on the faces, and either a 45* chamfer bit or a 1/4" roundover for one of the other edges. These parts are for a friend and he's still making up his mind on the profile of the last edge.

Turns out that I'll need to go to the BORG for something else anyway.

Would it be safe to assume that with long screws countersunk flush into 3/4" MDF, I would be fine with just about any bits that the router can handle?

Michael

[pat warner]

"I'm uncertain about the strength of that 1/4" of MDF remaining between the screw heads and the router base. "
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MDF is a gradient of density. Your screw heads are in the denser section of the thickness. 1/4" of the stuff is plenty to hold your screws.

Would advise you use the 3 10-24's the casting is also drilled for, however. The heads on the 4M's are too small and the unit forces are so high they may loosen.

Get some garden variety 10-24 x 1-1/4" flat heads for more security.

Routers (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Michael Adelong]

Thank you Routerman!

Didn't notice that the other holes had different threads. I appreciate the help.

M-