Shadow box #2 (bigger)

[Shaddy Dedmore]

16.75 x 11.25. Still for 1/4" material (2 sheets of 12x24 sheets). Let me know if you use it.

http://www.shaddysengraving.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/ShadowBoxLarge.jpg

Version 9 download here (http://www.shaddysengraving.com/laser/ShadowBoxLargeVer9.cdr)

Shaddy

[Ed Lang]

I cut the smaller one and I think the back made out of .25 is the right size, not my thought on .125.

I will cut this one soon and report back but I bet it will be just a great as the smaller one.

[Todd Jones]

here is a box cut from this pattern using 1/4" neon green acrylic

[Shaddy Dedmore]

Cool, thanks for posting the pic.

Would you (or anyonoe else) find it beneficial to be able to change the finger width/depth easily? I have an idea that could work (macro), but I didn't want to spend too much time if it was only going to be me using it.

Shaddy

[Todd Jones]

that would be great I like doing boxes and acrylic and wood thickness very so much I spen a lot of time changing settups to match the material

[Phyllis Rhodes]

this is exactly what i've been looking for! something to put my ornaments in!

can i download the v9 and X3 will open it?

phyllis

[Lee DeRaud]

Cool, thanks for posting the pic.

Would you (or anyonoe else) find it beneficial to be able to change the finger width/depth easily? I have an idea that could work (macro), but I didn't want to spend too much time if it was only going to be me using it.

ShaddyShaddy, didn't my "fingerbox" VBA module get uploaded to your site at some point? I think most of the code you need is in there.

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

In order to cut 1/4" what watt laser do you need?

zll

[Lee DeRaud]

In order to cut 1/4" what watt laser do you need?

zllMy 25W ULS does fine. Not the speediest operation in the world though.

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

We have a 50 watt and my settings are: Speed 1.1 - 1.8, Power 100, PPI 100, if I set the PPI to 200 I get burning. I was just wondering if these settings are normal.

[Lee DeRaud]

We have a 50 watt and my settings are: Speed 1.1 - 1.8, Power 100, PPI 100, if I set the PPI to 200 I get burning. I was just wondering if these settings are normal.Sounds about right. I use 0.8 speed with the 25W, but it takes 500PPI to get through 1/4". Judging from the pictures, that gives about the same amount of burning as whatever settings Shaddy is using. Air assist would certainly help with that, but I just haven't needed it enough to justify the hassle.

[Todd Jones]

I have a 35w trotec and it took about half an hour to cut the box out. I do have air assist. The box works nice as a display for ornaments it would be better if it was a little wider. I am also going to cut a little slot in the center of each top so I can easily hang the ornaments

[Carol VanArnam]

I spent all weekend making boxes but I can't figure out how everyone is glueing them or nailing them together? HELP HELP.... what type of glue are you folks using? I don't want the wood glue to squeeze out of the joints and get all over the wood. i was thinking about a clear glue maybe. OR are you guys all using very small nails. Please tell me the secret wood laser box making trick. I have my secret decoder ring but haven't used it yet..... I'll send you a pound of chocolate if you tell me how to glue the stupid thing together.... :confused: :confused:

[Dave Fifield]

Carol, when I made some boxes very like these, I used ordinary Titebond III woodworking glue, sparingly, applied only to the mating surfaces using a small brush (one of those super-cheap acid brushes). There is virtually no glue squeeze-out if you're careful. You need to clamp the glued-up assembly for about an hour to make sure it goes together nice and tightly. Good luck!

:Dave F.

[Ed Lang]

Carol,

I use a small bottle of glue (refill from gallon) and put a dot of glue on the finger joints. I like rubber bands to hold together. I also have scraps of wood to put under the bands to add extra pressure to points that need a little more push.

Practice with the glue is the only way to learn the exact amount to use.... you will get it!

You can also use blue painters tape along the areas that the glue will squeeze out. Then just pull the tape off and you will have clean edges.

Merry Christmas.

Ed

[Ray Mighells]

Shaddy, I made two full size and one half size using Black Cherry. The contrast of wood color and dark joints is beautiful. I don't know what I'm going to do with them, but I enjoy looking at them and showing them off. Thank you for the pattern.

[Shaddy Dedmore]

One indispensable tool i use for this is a Pin Nailer. I use a PC model (http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2593), because I have an air compressor nearby, but I think there are electric models around. MDF can split because it's made of compressed layers, birch does a lot better with the nailer.

Pretty much anything put together using 1/4" wood can be used with a pin nailer. It really adds to the strength of the piece, especially if the joints are loose.

EDIT: Didn't see your post, Ray. Thanks for the acknowledgment. I'd love to see a pic of your boxes. So far I've just used MDF and birch ply. I've stained the ply and it looks good, and I've pre-painted the MDF, that also looked pretty good. With the ply, if there are spots that didn't burn through I use a sharpie to paint over it and you can only tell if you know where to look.

Shaddy

[Carol VanArnam]

I hope this works... I've never posted pictures before. I made these this weekend. Thanks guys for all of the tips. I feel like you are all my laser budies.

[Shaddy Dedmore]

Hey Carol, those look great. Nice job.

Shaddy

[Kurt Sallaz]

We have an Epilog Mini 45 watt and tried this box with disaterous results. First settings were out of our book at 10% speed / 100% power and it wouldn't cut through. Ran it twice and it burned. Then set the dpi at 200, speed at 2% and power at 100% - hit and miss cutting all the way through. Ran it again and it caught on fire and burned our table. Can anyone offer feedback?

[Mike Shauer]

Kurt, You might try turning up your air, kind of like blowing out the flame. I cut 1/4 cedar with my Versa but I run the air @ 50 lbs. With 1/4" baltic Birch I usually can run at 30 lbs. Works for me. Cheers, Mike

[Dave Jones]

Kurt, what was the wood you used? My 45 watt Epilog Mini-24 will cut through 1/2" baltic birch plywood at 2% speed 100% power.

Also, what did you have the Frequency set for in the vector settings of the Epilog driver? For vector cutting wood that should be a low number, like maybe 400-500.

Do you have the air compressor for air assist? If not, you should consider it if you are doing wood or plastic cutting.

[Carol VanArnam]

Kurt- I have a 60w epilog... I cut my 1/4" baltic birch boxs at speed 12, power 100, frequency 1000, dpi 600. I never have any problems....

because you have a 45w you might want to slow your speed down a bit.
you need to use your air assist to blow away the flame/dust

I cut my 1/8" boxes at 15 speed, 90 power, 1000 freq, 600 dpi- they look great....

[Shaddy Dedmore]

I have a 24TT 45 W and I use 5-7 speed at 100 power and a freq of 400 to 1ooo. I have trouble with birch ply often, so I have to err on the over powered side. The edges do have a little more char than I'd like, but I have to trade that for a more consistant cut. MDF is more char-y, but it's more consistant of a cut.

Shaddy