Panel door -- the frame

[Alex Yeilding]

I'm looking forward to using neander methods to build 4 F&P doors for a bookcase--figured a built-in bookcase to be painted is a good practice ground before making some in a nicer piece.

I feel confident that I understand the process for raising the panel (but ask again after I've tried it<g>), for ploughing the groove for the panel, and for the preparing the mortice and tenon. But I'm at a loss about how to put a profile on the inner edge of the frame-members. I'm looking for something like you would get with a cope and stick routah set.

Two possiblities occur to me:
1) use a molding plane to cut the profile on the full length of the rail and stile, then use a coping saw to cope the rail to fit the stile. Sounds very difficult.
2) use a molding plan on the rails, and a shaped scraper to scrape the desired profile on the exposed section of the stile, using carving tools to cary the profiles into the corners.

Surely there is a better/easier way?

[harry strasil]

best way is to cut profile with a molding plane full length on both stiles and rails, then used a haunched mortise and tenon to fasten the rails to the stiles, the haunch being cut to the depth of the moulding with 45 ed corners to match.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/odd/stileandrail.jpg

center rails if you use them would have a 45 on each edge to match the stiles.

[Alex Yeilding]

As usual, it is "Gee, that is obvious" once I see it!

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Alex--I almost always miter them. I typically cut the miter on the rail, us it to mark the stile, saw the miter on the stile, then rip the bead [or other profile] off.

I use tradition miter templates. These lay down over the edge of the stile and are used to guide the saw.

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/mitre_templates.jpg

But I have also coped them. I use in-cannel gouges to make the stile profile fit the rail's. Pretty much just like coping house moldings, only easier. I have only done this on wide and heavy doors where I think the seasonal shrinkage could create a gap.

Still, much harder than mitering.

Take care, Mike

[Chuck Stanford]

I'm looking forward to using neander methods to build 4 F&P doors for a bookcase--figured a built-in bookcase to be painted is a good practice ground before making some in a nicer piece.

I feel confident that I understand the process for raising the panel (but ask again after I've tried it<g>), for ploughing the groove for the panel, and for the preparing the mortice and tenon. But I'm at a loss about how to put a profile on the inner edge of the frame-members. I'm looking for something like you would get with a cope and stick routah set.

Two possiblities occur to me:
1) use a molding plane to cut the profile on the full length of the rail and stile, then use a coping saw to cope the rail to fit the stile. Sounds very difficult.
2) use a molding plan on the rails, and a shaped scraper to scrape the desired profile on the exposed section of the stile, using carving tools to cary the profiles into the corners.

Surely there is a better/easier way?

Plane a rebate on the stile and rail pieces a weak 1/16th of an inch deep at exactly the same width as the groove is deep (this is critical you'll see when you cut away the stuck moulding at the miter on the stile piece) then use a hollow (I use a #12 by C&W) to make the thumbnail profile. I make a template out of Bristol layout board and mark the ends of the stiles and rails. The actual curve of the thumbnail is up to you. You've made the 'stuck' moulding.

Instead of mitering the joint as another poster pictured, I scribe (or cope) the rail to the stile piece, whose sticking is cut off square to the bottom of the mortise. This is a bit more forgiving IMO and you'll never show a gap at the corners. The in-cannell gouge is the right tool for the job, but you can do a decent job coping a simple thumbnail profile with a 1/4" chisel and a utility knife. Shade the arris of the mitered stuck moulding on the rail piece with a pencil to help you visualize the profile you'll end up with.