Ripping 45s on narrow stock

[Dan Lee]

Hi
I need to make make legs for a couple of ottomans from QSWO. As the attachment shows each leg is to be made up from 4 pieces that have been ripped 45 degrees on 2 edges so resulting leg will have flecking on all 4 sides. I think this is called a quadralinear leg?

Stock is 1-3/4" by 3/4". TS is left tilt

Is there a safe way to do this on a TS? I illustrated the only 2 ways I can think of doing this and to me neither looks all that safe especially the second cuts
Thanks
Dan

[Bud Zysk]

Left tilt TS with your stock against the fence so the waste falls to the TS surface.

Router table with a 45° chamfer bit

Band saw with table tilted to 45° and then run the resulting edge across a jointer. This method will probably result in the least accurate results for a four-sided leg.

How about checking out "Woodshopdemos.com" They have a few pages devoted to the use of a 45° lock-miter bit to do just exactly what you're wanting to do. That's why I bought the one that I have....that I haven't used yet. :rolleyes:

Good luck. I'd like to see your results.

[glenn bradley]

If you are trying to keep the grain patter aligned, chamfer bit. If the grain only need to be similar; cut strips from an oversized plank. That is cut a 45 off the edge of a 3/4 x 12" plank, turn plank over and cut to width, turn plank over and cut to width, etc.

[Charlie Plesums]

I would not try either way you suggested, since there is little or no material riding on the saw table for stability.

My first recommendation would be to cut a very thin (veneer) strip off the "pretty" side and glue it to the "ugly" side.

I have made square legs from triangles... it is much harder than it seems it should be. But if you go that way, I would move your fence to the left side of the blade, then make successive cuts off the larger piece of wood as Glenn suggested - what drops below the blade as "waste" really becomes your work piece. To make sure it drops away from the blade, put a thin piece of wood (masonite) under the "supply" so you are cutting higher on the blade, and the off-cut drops away from the blade. That will also help keep the 45 degree edge that is against the fence from catching under the edge of the fence.

[Steve Clardy]

Method 2 would be better than method 1

Even though the good side would be down, and may have some chipout, I would reverse the method of number 2

Edit. You have a left tilt. Mine is right tilt

[Dan Lee]

Thanks for the replys
It seems to me that ripping to final width then cutting 45s on the edges wheather TS or router table/chamfer bit the same problem is there as Charlie said there isn't enough stock to support the cut particularly on the second cut.

Bud:
I have that bit and made legs for 2 Morris chairs following J Lucas demo. Well that bit just isn't for me don't get me wrong his instructions were good and I felt pretty safe but I sweated bullets the whole time anyway and those peices were 2-3/4" wide. Maybe if I had a power feeder...


Glenn:
Thanks ripping off wider stock I think is the way to go

Charlie:
I neglected to mention the tops of the legs will be exposed. I considered wrapping 8/4 stock with thin veneers but since the tops are exposed I'd like a concentric look
Dan

[Burt Waddell]

Dan,

Another excellent method is to use the EZ Smart system and the EZ Smart clamping system or the EZ Guide control units.

(For those that demand equal time for Festool: Festool does not have a clamping system with the capabilities of the Smart clamping system or the Guide control units. Therefore, I did not recommend the Festool.)

Burt

[Mike Null]

I used method 2 with a caul on the second cut.