Which Table Top Edge Treatment?

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm building an end table / DVD stogage cabinet. I'm ready to assemble the top but undecided between:

1) overhanging the top and routing a decorative edge

-or-

2) applying a decorative moulding around the edge


Any suggestions/comments?


Thanks,

Mike

[Doug Shepard]

If it was me, I'd do the overhang/edge-roouting - but that's just me. A simple cove on the bottom edge might look good on that. It would make the top look lighter and go with the cove on the raised panels. Just one thought. The cabinet is looking good though and either way would probably look fine.

[Jeff Horton]

I would say it depends on what is around it, what style is in the room where it goes and the house. Then you have personal preferances of the owners. Either one can look good. But it needs to match/flow with it's surroundings.

Me, I prefer simple square edges or slightly rounded over edges. But that suits my house and my preferences.

[Jim Becker]

Another part of the decision is whether you want to see the end-grain of the top or not. Further...you'll need to accommodate wood movement for an applied molding on the portions that are cross-grain to the top.

[John Lucas]

Jim,
I am currently making a top for bathroom vanity and using 3/4 mahogany. I have the top over hanging about 4" and then I am cutting off 2.5 of this. I then am folding the cutoff over and fastening to the underside so I end up with 1.5" thickness and matching grain on front and sides. I am simply going to round over top and underside but I could put a molding type edge on it. Hadnt thought of that but it might be real nice on the 1.5" edge. We dont usually see end grain molded but I think it would be cool. Way easier than adding breadboard and worrying about movement. I am going to play with this and stall the actual top another week or so.

[Bill Arnold]

... I have the top over hanging about 4" and then I am cutting off 2.5 of this. I then am folding the cutoff over and fastening to the underside so I end up with 1.5" thickness and matching grain on front and sides. I am simply going to round over top and underside but I could put a molding type edge on it. ...
OK, here's another thought to expand on what you said about cutting off the edge of the board and adding it to the underside for a thicker appearance. Miter the cut at 45deg, then miter the cutoff piece at 45deg. Rip the cutoff to 1.5" and glue it back to the top. In so doing, you get your desired thickness for the top, match the grain to the top and have no end grain with which to contend. This is similar to doing a return on a window sill or crown molding to cover end grain.

[Gail O'Rourke]

I second what Bill said. Sounds like a neat idea.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Is it too late to suggest that the wide flat sawn boards should be cut reversed and laminated edge to edge?
I have seen wide rift and quarter sawn pieces stay stable through all sorts of mistreatment but flatsawn is not like that.
Oh and I like both your options.