The Festool Trion

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Anybody use the FesterTool Trion?

Any issues with the lower part of the blade wandering off the track?

That has historically been ( for me) the single most annoying aspect of a jig saw. I can follow a line faithfully but somewhere deep down inside the cut, the blade expresses a different opinion and refuses to follow me drifting off to produce a bad result.

I recently read Bill Esposito's review of the Trion.
Damn if that thing doesn't look like the bees knees.

Any one got a comparison to the Bosch 1590EVSK ??

[Tyler Howell]

Can't say enough good things about it. Never had or used one like the barrel grip before.:cool:
Great power and control.
Come on Cliff, you too can be a tool snob.

[Brad Noble]

Sorry, I don't but I also have the Bosch 1590. So far I have been pleased with it. Perhaps I'm not cutting anything quite as accurately as your needing but I have not seen any problems yet. I would certainly be interested in any responses you may get.

Brad

[John Hulett]

I just got the latest issue of Popular Woodworking, wherein the cover story is "Mastering Your Jigsaw."

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/store/backissue.asp?issuedate=10/1/2006

I haven't had much time with the issue yet, but it does call out that the cause for the lower part of the blade not staying perpendicular in the cut is lateral movement. This suggests the problem is with technique and not equipment. Having said that - I've had the same problem in the past using my cheapo craftsman jigsaw; equipment or technique? Could be either one in my case, as I am not what one would call an "experienced woodworker."

Over this past weekend, I picked up the Bosch you describe as I needed a quick job done at my mother's house and I didn't have my tools. I'm supposed to return the saw, but I'm not sure I can bring myself to do so.;)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Come on Cliff, you too can be a tool snob.

Ohh tool Snobbery I love it.

Have you had occasion to cut wood thicker than 1"??
In tight curves?

That is my complaint about jigs saws. The top of the cut and the bottom of the cut are different enough to make for ruined work.

[glenn bradley]

Cliff,

How much wander are we talking about? If its 1/16" over a 1 1/2" thick board, I'd be disappointed. If its less, I'd be happy. I agree that uncontrolled lateral pressure will make the entry and exit points of a jigsaw cut disagree (for me this is my techinque which I hope is improving).

I have the 1591 as I prefer the control of the barrel grip. This is not a superiority of the handle design, just the relationship between my hand and the saw. Someone else will have better control with the top handle based on their hand and their grip.

With practice I have been able to get excellent results (most of the time) with the Bosch. However, I consider the jigsaw a roughing-in tool; a very refined roughing-in tool if that makes sense. I expect to dress up a curved cut to some degree by hand. I may be more comfortable with this as my bandsaw is a wimp and I always have to dress up bandsaw cuts and have come to expect it.

[JayStPeter]

I seem to remember some Festool vs. Bosch discussions on the Festool Owners Group and a magazine comparo not too long ago. Many of the FOG discussions focused on blade visibility on the Festool vs. Bosch. Presumably part of the blade stabilization mechanism causes the blade to be less visible on the F and you must learn to trust the mark on the base. I don't remember the exact details of the magazine review, but I thought the points (other than price) they dinged the F for didn't make much sense to me. But a few of the saws (including the F and Bosch) were clearly better than the others wrt cut quality.
I bought a Bosch pre-Festool. The difference between the Bosch and my old Craftsman and Skil saws is night and day. The Bosch is much smoother and a heck of a lot better about making perpendicular cuts (although still not perfect). The old saws used to catch and then jump up and down in your hand while the Bosch has never done that. Like some others, I also prefer barrel grip. I think it helps me steer instead of twist the saw.
If I upgrade to a Festool it will be for the dust collection.

Jay

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

How much wander are we talking about? If its 1/16" over a 1 1/2" thick board,



I can get more than that. I tend not to apply lateral pressure. Both my older haitachi saws have tended to let the blade drift off on some path known only to the blade.

I've had both barrel and top handle jig saws. The low balance point of the barrels places one closer to the work & I think produces less moment arm. It's an understeer vs oversteer issue.

I am thinking of getting a better Jig saw. the Bosh and the Festertool are my lead candadates. The price delta is not insubstantial with the Festertool pushing $300.00 and the Bosch at about $170.00 tops

I wonder how much of the Festertool price is founded in their DC systems. I don't use a dust collector so paying for that is silly but if the blade control in deep lumber is way better than others I really should consider it.


Of course if I buy a Festertool I may be forever banned from calling them Festertool.

[Jim Becker]

I have a review of it on my web site. No wandering problem with mine...even in thick material....first one I ever had that cut straight! That said, the latest Bosch is a pretty incredible saw and attractive in price. 'About the only time you'll hear me say something like that when there is a Festool in competition.

[Bob Childress]

When I got the Bosch 1590 recently, it was exactly because of the "wandering blade" syndrome from my old B&D. The blade guide on the Bosch near the foot keeps it in line quite well. I cut some 1 1/2" thick stock and had very little variance (< 1/16") over a pretty long run. I think the Festool would do as well (maybe better) but I don't use the jigsaw enough to justify the extra money--I'm saving up for the Domino. :D

I only chose the D-handle because my small hands couldn't get a solid feeling grip on the barrel handle. I think I would prefer the barrel if the grip were smaller.

[Chris Padilla]

Visiblity with the Festool jig-saw stinks. Otherwise, the cut is smooth and perpendicular (with the correct blade for the material) and the dust collection nice.

The dc hose can drag on you which also stinks and has messed up my cut more than once. You'd think I'd learn.... :mad:

I've been looking at that dc hose boom for the Festool lately but its price...sigh...it is F I guess... :rolleyes:

Oh, I have the barrel-grip one...nice improvement over the d-handle for my hands.

[Frank Pellow]

When I got the Bosch 1590 recently, it was exactly because of the "wandering blade" syndrome from my old B&D. The blade guide on the Bosch near the foot keeps it in line quite well. I cut some 1 1/2" thick stock and had very little variance (< 1/16") over a pretty long run. I think the Festool would do as well (maybe better) but I don't use the jigsaw enough to justify the extra money--I'm saving up for the Domino. :D

I only chose the D-handle because my small hands couldn't get a solid feeling grip on the barrel handle. I think I would prefer the barrel if the grip were smaller.
Interesting. I have quite small hands and I have told folks in the past that I prefer the barrel grip to a D grip because my small hands have more control with a barrel grip. :confused: Oh well, to each his own.

[Jim Becker]

Interesting. I have quite small hands and I have told folks in the past that I prefer the barrel grip to a D grip because my small hands have more control with a barrel grip.

I agree...and feel "more in control" of the barrel grip format on this particular tool. But it's good that there are two styles available from Festool, Bosch and others. Choice is nice!

[Dave Falkenstein]

I had the older model Bosch without blade guides, and got rid of it because it would not cut square in 2X redwood. I used the Bosch for oddball cuts when building decks. I replaced the Bosch with a Festool Trion barrel grip about two years ago, and have not had any issues with unsquare cuts since. There is a bit of getting used to in following the line, but the guide mark on the zero clearance insert does actually work quite well. The Bosch and Festool blades fit both Bosch and Festool saws, but I get better results using the Festool blades. Festool makes several blades specifically designed to cut square in difficult material.

[Ed Labadie]

I've had no problems with the blade wandering on my Festool........as long as the operator :rolleyes: adjusts the lower guide to the proper width for the blade being used.

Ed

[Bob Marino]

Cliff,

As others have noted, the person making the cut has as much to do with the swayout as the equipment. The Festool's bladeguides function similar to bandsaw roller guides, but if you don't use proper technique, the correct blade and adjust the guides accordingly, your results may vary. I have not used the Bosch 1590, but I am sure the same applies.

Bob

[larry merlau]

i have the trion and it was my first festool purchase. the barrel grip version. looked at the bosch and almost got it but the demo price on a festool was close enough to go the rest of the way/ the cuts are very good when using the right blade for the job, my first cut was in 1.5" white oak not the toughest wood around but pretty stought it was the best cut i had ever gotten by a jig saw. the old skil ,craftsman and few others in the past years.. so if i were you, i would find someone with the ones your looking at and see if you can test drive them.. i also had a post some time back on this very subject. so that my views hope i mixed you up:)

[John Lucas]

I have the Festool Trion, both models. I personally like the barrel grip best.
What has not been mentioned here is the blade. I think that selection of the blade is crucial to the wandering factor in thick wood. I used the Trion in a circle jig setup and that is where tight diameter really shows off the blade wandering. Answer is to find an aggressive blade that may be coarser than you would ordinarily select. I found myself using the aggressive blade and getting straight up and down cuts. I then switched to router on same circle jig and took off last 32nd and had the perfect edge. I photographed the sequence and chip failed. Only time out of 2 years of use. Something about sawdust inside the camera - how???
Anyway, try different blades and go slow on the cutting.