Tips on Wenge

[Mike Cutler]

I have recieved a comission from on high (SWMBO) to make a blanket chest. The chest will be made of wenge and brazillian cherry (My back hurts already from lifting it, and it isn't even made.:eek: )

I have never worked with wenge. I've read about the splintering issues associated with it, and the respiratory needs. I'm looking for tips and tricks on the milling to minimize the splintering. Gluing techniques, and potential pitfalls. Lastly, any finishing technique suggestion to address the porous nature of the wood. Pore filling technique, Products that worked, and didn't work.

I would prefer to perform the final finishing on the interior with shellac, since clothing type articles will be involved. Although, the interior will be lined with spanish cedar sides, and an aromatic cedar bottom, so maybe a shellac will not be necessary??. The exterior will probably be something close to a semi gloss wiping varnish in appearance.

Any and all help or tips appreciated.

TIA.
Mike.

[James Biddle]

Good timing, I'm also working on my first project with wenge (zebrawood coffee table with wenge legs). I milled up the wenge to rough dimensions yesterday. I put new knives on my planer and joiner just the other day. Spent last night picking small slivers out of my fingers. Only wood that I remember being worse was jatoba (aka Brazilian Cherry). I didn't get the impression that the wenge is as much open grained as it is figured. I'm not planning on filling it unless my finish sample shows me otherwise. My intent is to wipe it with naptha, spray it with water-based universal sealer or shellac and then 4-6 coats of water-based lacquer.

I'll be interested in how others finish wenge.

[John Shuk]

I'd be willing to bet Mark Singer will be chiming in here pretty soon. he has posted pics of some very nice work in wenge.
Mike,
I'm curious as to why you plan on mixing the types of cedar that will be lining the chest. It seems to me that you would have "dueling scents". Spanish cedar is well known as a lining in humidors. I don't think you will want to finish the inside if it will be lined with any type of cedar since the strong presence of scent is the desired result.
John

[Mike Cutler]

I'd be willing to bet Mark Singer will be chiming in here pretty soon. he has posted pics of some very nice work in wenge.
Mike,
I'm curious as to why you plan on mixing the types of cedar that will be lining the chest. It seems to me that you would have "dueling scents". Spanish cedar is well known as a lining in humidors. I don't think you will want to finish the inside if it will be lined with any type of cedar since the strong presence of scent is the desired result.
John

I'm not sure that it won't be spanish cedar throughout. SWMBO doesn't want the heavy smell of cedar to permeate(sp.) everything. Original idea was to line the sides with spanish cedar, and put aromatic cedar on the bottom, or to not put anything inside.

James.

If Jatoba is worse than wenge then I'm ahead of the game. I've done a fair bit of work with Jatoba(Brazilian Cherry). It's also the other wood in the project.

I'm hoping that the grain isn't too much of an experience. Time always tells though.

[Jim Becker]

BE CAREFUL OF THE SPLINTERS!! ;) (Nice wood, otherwise...)

[Mark Singer]

Through the rough dressing stages wear gloves...thick leather is good. It sands beautiful...watch the grain direction...you can easily rip a corner splinter out...glue it back...read the grain carefully...the wood will speak to you. Sand it to 220 or 320 amd wet sand with oil....Daly's work well...tried and true is also very good. I would not shellac or varnish ...the wood has a lot of soul and don't drownd it in a membrane of sealer. Once sanded the splinters are nor a problem... It cuts well and can be planed or scraped. Tight Bond II or epoxy works great...there is no oil like teak to worry about...It is stable and you can take bows out by gluing the curves opposing each other to cancel the stress...there is usually a little bow and the wood is very strong and hard to bend...especially 8/4...With time and sunlight it will lighten and the reed like character will come out....lets see the work!

[Mark Pruitt]

Through the rough dressing stages wear gloves...thick leather is good.
Mark,
I know nothing about wenge that is based on experience. I assume that the gloves are to prevent skin irritation, but there is something about wearing gloves while operating a TS or a jointer that scares the begeeses out of me.:eek: I'm wondering, is there not any kind of product that one could apply to the hands to prevent or at least minimize the irritation? Thankfully, I've not bumped into any skin irritation problems personally, but I am curious about this.
Mark

[Mike Cutler]

Through the rough dressing stages wear gloves...thick leather is good. It sands beautiful...watch the grain direction...you can easily rip a corner splinter out...glue it back...read the grain carefully...the wood will speak to you. Sand it to 220 or 320 amd wet sand with oil....Daly's work well...tried and true is also very good. I would not shellac or varnish ...the wood has a lot of soul and don't drownd it in a membrane of sealer. Once sanded the splinters are nor a problem... It cuts well and can be planed or scraped. Tight Bond II or epoxy works great...there is no oil like teak to worry about...It is stable and you can take bows out by gluing the curves opposing each other to cancel the stress...there is usually a little bow and the wood is very strong and hard to bend...especially 8/4...With time and sunlight it will lighten and the reed like character will come out....lets see the work!

The advice about the gloves is spot on. I have splinters form both the wenge, and the jatoba in my hands just from carrying it to the truck, and handling all of the jatoba in the store. LOML was like a kid in the store picking out "her" boards, and mixing and matching them. I think all those board manipulation were the cause of the splinters. She actually spent time in the shop with me this morning while I rough milled the jatoba. I was floored. It was cool.:D

I'm not clear on one point though. Do you wet sand prior to milling to dimension?, or are you just knocking of the splinters?

I like the wet sand with oil, basically the same technique I use on jatoba.

It is a very deep wood, as you mentioned. I've looked at the boards under different light, and from differing angles to get an idea how best to approach and utilize it.When she picked it I was saying uh-oh, wenge, but the jatoba is an amber hue with very dark mottling and peas in it. The two woods look dramatic next to each other. Hopefully I can pull this off.

Thanks for the tips Mark.

[Mark Singer]

Mark,
I know nothing about wenge that is based on experience. I assume that the gloves are to prevent skin irritation, but there is something about wearing gloves while operating a TS or a jointer that scares the begeeses out of me.:eek: I'm wondering, is there not any kind of product that one could apply to the hands to prevent or at least minimize the irritation? Thankfully, I've not bumped into any skin irritation problems personally, but I am curious about this.
Mark

The gloves are for splinters...it is not an issue running machines,,,,just don't feel that the gloves give you a safety factor....:rolleyes: I always bring them to the lumber yard

[Mark Singer]

Mike,
It is basically like any furniture project,....dress the lumber..rough size it .final size...sand or plane ..joinery...dry fit.....glue up....then final sand to 320 in steps....it is not the best wood to plane since there is the dry splinter character.... Now with the piece assembled , glued, and ready for finish apply oil and maybe duing the second coat wet sand with 400 wet and dry with oil...this makes a slurry and fills the pores and when it drys you have a vry senuous smooth finish...be sure to remove the excess oil after 30 minutes to an hour with paper towels...use the 400 and oil to burnish the edges , it seals them and they become splinter free...it is different then any wood I have used...oak is maybe somewhat similar...but not really

Jatoba is hard...finishes beautiful...takes oil well...machines well splinters are not an issue usually...finer grain ...darkes in sunlight and sometimes brings out amber....medulary rays

Wenge contrasts well with sedua ...

This should be fun and these exotics are very rewarding to work with...time and use enhance them


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