Uniguard

[Greg Koch]

I have been concerned with safety using my Delta Contractor saw, but took off the OEM blade guard. It was pretty flimsy and flopped around more than I liked...almost dangerous in itself, IMO. However, having seen posts of what can happen to fingers....I decided I needed something, but something substancial that I would use. I bought a Delta Uniguard from Amazon, and with the promotions, the price was $227 and included free shipping.

This thing is heavy, looks well built and goes together fairly easily.

[Jim Becker]

I had a UniGuard on my saw prior to the Excalibur that is on it now. The UniGuard is a heavy-duty, well made product. And although it lacks dust collection, it's low cost is very attractive.

[Jim DeLaney]

I'm using the Uniguard (with its splitter) on my Shop Fox cabinet saw. Really like it! The'split arms' on the guard make it very handy to use - even up close to the fence, where you can lift one side and let it rid on top of the fence, and still be 'guarded.'

Lack of dust collection is my only complaint, but even that isn't a serious shortcoming, IMO.

I have the Biesemeyer clone fence on my saw, and to make the Uniguard installation easier, I replaced the rear angle iron with a piece of ¼ X 2 strapping. Works great...

[Greg Koch]

I missed 2 used Biese on e.bay (total newbie)...and noticed they went for about the same $ as a new Uniguard on sale at Amazon. I figure with the zero clearance throat plate and the DC I have, the lack of collection at the blade will be offset with the safety factor. I wear a respirator when I saw too.

I have a 40L Biesemeyer Home Shop fence system and used my jig saw to cut the mounting notches..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/kgregc/Woodworking/th_RailandClamps.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/kgregc/Woodworking/RailandClamps.jpg)

The split head design is one of the pluses I considered. I have some problems with one of the "heads" that I think I'm going to have to go to Delta about. I'm looking forward to getting it on and working.

Thanks,

[Jim Becker]

I actually built a new head for the UniGuard that incorporated dust collection. There is a lot of material that splashes off the top of the blade and a zero-clearance insert actually reduces dust collection performance around the blade, itself. (No air flow) It's a trade off...splinters or dust collection??? ;) ) I probably have some pictures and so forth somewhere on my harddrive at home if you want them. It was a pretty simple product using 1/4" Lexan, MEK and some odds and ends to make. I was very satisfied with the dust collection and the safety factor that the modified UniGuard gave me. The only reason I upgraded was to get something that was relatively easy to remove from the saw for certain times when I needed the surface clear. (The UniGuard is a mount and leave it there forever situation that wasn't suitable for my long term needs...a personal decision/preference) Good product; just not what I needed/wanted.

[Greg Koch]

Jim,

Thanks...pics and any details would be great! I can get all sorts of plastic/acrylic material locally for $1.5/lb! LOL

I can see where the mounting arm could be a prob for some things. With enough time, experience and $, I might move to something like a Biesemeyer, or better yet, build my own. I would just like to keep as many "tools" left to work with as possible..:eek: :D

[Bart Leetch]

Hi Jim I would like to say me too & request some pictures too.

I have the Exaktor system. I have it mounted on an arm coming down from the ceiling. I really don't like this system, I have thought that if I could combine parts of this system with parts of the Uniguard system I may be able to come up with something that will work better.

[Julio Navarro]

Heres a blade guard with DC that I made from 1/4" lexan

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45339&d=1156162909

heres another, not sure you can make out the blade guard.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45341&d=1156163015

(only prob with this is the hose is too long and tends to be in the way, I will have to cut it and lose about 12" of hose, unfortunately.

The blade guard is quickly removable and I also built another BG for tenon cuts and other cuts where the blade guard would be in the way, I dont have a pic of that but I will take some tonight. I have two interchangable BG for different uses. Both have DC.

[Jim Becker]

Here are some pictures, etc., of the UniGuard retrofit I did back in about 2000. I lost some stuff, unfortunately, so there are not many details available. But it's a pretty straight forward project if you think about it.

Some of the pictures are already in this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=3615).

[Roger Wilson]

Jim how did you cut the circular hole in your retro fit ?

I was thinking that the existing plastic guards on the Uniguard could be drilled/cut for at least a shop vac (there is a horizontal flat section on plastic guard).

[Jim Becker]

Jim how did you cut the circular hole in your retro fit ?
Hole saw or a wing-cutter at VERY slow speed on the DP. You need to keep the speed down for both safety and to avoid melting the plastic as much as possible. Very light cuts, in other words.

Oh, to assemble, I built a little jig that held the Lexan in place so that I only needed to dribble the MEK with a syringe into the joint.