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Mitchell Andrus
08-27-2006, 4:52 PM
Based in 1905 designs, these are my latest efforts, to be used for door panels by furniture makers. Woods used are white oak, walnut, beech, rosewood, pine, cherry, mahogany, lacewood.

Mitch

Mike Null
08-27-2006, 8:38 PM
Just beautiful. What is the thickness of your inlays?

Mitchell Andrus
08-27-2006, 10:33 PM
About .020 inch

Mitch

Tom Radachi
08-28-2006, 10:54 AM
Those look terrific. I bet you keep pretty darn busy doing those. Real nice.
Tom

Mitchell Andrus
08-28-2006, 1:14 PM
They're just new on my website today, so I dunno.... The first few took about an hour to assemble - tweezers.

Mitch

Al Mutairi
08-28-2006, 4:01 PM
Thanks Mitchell for the website info , I am thinking of ordering their Veneer Sample Pack.

Beginner questions :

I wonder what laser setting you use to engrave the wood for the .020" inlays ?

About inlays , do you simply black fill the outline you use for the vector cut & engrave ? or some fine adjustment is there.... ?

Al

Mitchell Andrus
08-28-2006, 4:52 PM
I use the term "inlay" in the historical sense. "Marquetry" is more appropriate to describe the items shown here. The parts shown in this thread are all cut from veneer, puzzle style, including the field.

I do a few items with inlaid veneer, pen boxes etc. On a 60W machine, I engrave a receptor area at:

Rosewood - Speed 35, Power 60%
Alder/Maple - Speed 35, Power 30%

Yes, just fill with black and engrave away the hole. Some fiddling will be required, for sure. I use solvent based glue or epoxy to set veneer inlay. The water based stuff swells the parts and if you aren't quick with the clamps, they don't fit into the hole. Dye the glue to get a cool effect around the edge.

Mitch

Mitchell Andrus
08-28-2006, 4:57 PM
Oh, yea... see this post for info on making a vacuum box. If you're going to cut veneer, it's a must have. Small pieces will be blown out the exhaust without it, and taping the veneer down is a pain.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=38692

Mitch