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View Full Version : Using Rigid Electrical Conduit in WW



Rob Diz
08-27-2006, 12:27 PM
I am in the process of building a drying rack. My intent was to make something inexpensive and functional.

I was planning on using metal conduit for the arms of the rack - because they are cheap and rigid.

My forstner bit set comes in 1/8 increments. The 3/4 is about 1/32 too large, and the 5/8 is about 1/32 too small.

Because I will only have the "drying rack" sticking out on one side, I was planning on fixing the metal conduit in the 2x4 with a deep hole. I was hoping for a tight fit. Given the amont of play I would have with the 3/4 bit, I was wondering if I should use something like a caulk (taking all ideas) as a filler for the "void" or if I should simply scrap the metal conduit, and dig around for scrap plywood?

Here's my inspiration, taken without apology from Jamie Buxton.

http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=42372&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1152397723 (http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=42372&d=1152397723)

thanks

Steve Clardy
08-27-2006, 12:33 PM
If you put the conduit in 2" deep, at say a 3-4 degree angle,
I don't see a problem with the 1/32 difference in size.

Making them easy to remove would be a good thing, if you ever need to remove a couple of them to put someting on your rack that won't fit on your current planned spacing of the conduit.

Rob Diz
08-27-2006, 12:43 PM
Good idea. I wanted to leave them loose, so I'll drill the holes at a 3 degree or so angle.

Brad Noble
08-27-2006, 12:47 PM
Think about one of these.


http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3612


Should solve your problem.


Brad

Kent Fitzgerald
08-27-2006, 1:01 PM
Is this a clothes drying rack? I'd be a little concerned about galvanized metal leaving stains on clothing.

If that's not an issue and you still want to use conduit, you could grind a litttle off the sides of a 3/4" spade bit to get a tight fit.

Steve Clardy
08-27-2006, 1:04 PM
Is this a clothes drying rack? I'd be a little concerned about galvanized metal leaving stains on clothing.

If that's not an issue and you still want to use conduit, you could grind a litttle off the sides of a 3/4" spade bit to get a tight fit.


Drying rack for finishing cabinet doors and such:)

Rob Diz
08-27-2006, 1:39 PM
The drying rack is for cabinet doors and door faces.

I will soon be getting my HVLP conversion gun. I was planning on spraying polyacrylic on a few things to get the hang of the gun - and the drying rack was on the list. I figured that a quick coat of poly would prevent any staining or bleaching off of the metal.

One thing I had not thought of was crimping the conduit to get a tighter fit. That's another interesting idea, and one I will probably be using.

Well after a bit more experimenting, the depth of the hole did not overcome the gap between the wood and the metal conduit. It looks like I have two options:1) a complete half-@33ed approach and wrap some tape/shim/crimping combo and try and force the thing to work (I'm hearing that "voice in the back of my head saying NO"; or 2) buy the correct sized forstner bit from Highland hardware.

Which brings me to the next question. In a bit more careful measuring, the conduit is 3/64 smaller than 3/4 of an inch. Should I get a bit with a dead on fit, or one with a 1/64th "grace" so I can get these things in and out without killing myself. I'm probably heading for a touch of "wiggle" room.

Jim Winslow
08-27-2006, 9:54 PM
When I use Ridgid Electricat conduit for a project like this I use a spad bit and grind off a little on each side use the drill press and the fit is great, Just take a little off at a time untill you get the size you need. I have a spade bit ground to each size for Conduit. It is cheap and easy way to do this type of project.

Then I use Pliable vinyl caps on the ends of the conduit take a look at http://www.mcmaster.com do a search for "Pliable vinyl caps" and you will find them 100 for less than $5 makes it look Professional with these caps, and will protect the project from the sharp ends of the conduit also.

Rob Diz
08-31-2006, 4:18 PM
I have a really really cheap set of forstner bits - so I took the 3/4 and ground it down to the size of the conduit Worked like a charm to drill the correct size hole. Thanks for the suggestion. The conduit now fits nice and snug, and yet the rack can be re-organized or dissassembled quickly.

I am a bit concerned about any potential staining that might be caused by the conduit, so I wil spray them with a coat of WB poly, unless I'm creating more problems that I would be solving.

thanks again for all of the responses!