Lock rabbit joint

[Jeff Horton]

Since Mark asked about joints we use I thought I would post this. I have the same photos in another thread but some folks probably don't read it. This is first time I have tried one of these. I really wanted to do dovetails but I was just not confident in my ability yet. So started to look for something else.

http://www.kudzupatch.com/woodshop/coffee_table/Miter_lock_front.jpg

Drawer face. Obviously I have flush fitting drawer face.

http://www.kudzupatch.com/woodshop/coffee_table/Miter_lock_rear.jpg

Rear drawer joint.

I found some instructions on making these. They suggested using 1/2" stock for the sides and making sure they were all the same thickness. Then you make a gage block with a 1/4" by 1/2" dado in it. You use this block to set up the depth and fence for subsequent cuts. It worked extremely well and I am impressed with the joint.

[Mike Cutler]

Jeff.

How did you cut the joint. TS,or router? They look like good joints.

Mark had a good idea to share joinery methods and technique.

Thanks for the post and the pics. Can you show a pic of the gauge block and the setup?

[Jeff Horton]

I will try this afternoon to get those photos. But the set up is pretty simple. I am not a router guy. I use them but prefer not to because of the noise. I did notice there are a lot of bits for this purpose.

I used a 1/4" dado on my table saw. Added a 6" high aux. fence. I will find the web site I found the instruction on too. I just searched and now I can't find it.

[Mark Singer]

Jeff,
I think the tablesaw is the best way also. Another drawer design is the pocket screw technique....strong and fast ad you can find it under old threads i posted.....The joint your doing is good though . The joint must be oriented to lock agist forward and backward sliding of the drawer with the dados and the drawer sides

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Jeff for posting this. I would also choose the table saw to do this work, that is if I didn't use the pocket screw method which is so nice and easy and little set up involved.

Corey

[Gary Keedwell]

I just made a couple of drawers yesterday using that joint but used only a 1/8th kerf blade. I put a plunge-type indicator with a magnetic back against the fence and ran the parts thru the blade multiple times. Seems faster to me then messing around with dado blades. I see that Rockler is now selling a Table Saw Magnetic Micro Adjuster. HMmmmm :cool:

Gary K.

[Gary Keedwell]

I thought about the pocket hole method, but the thought of LOML making comments about those " funny looking holes" every time she opened those drawers...well, you see what I mean. I know , I could glue plugs in and after it sets, I can somehow make them flush... so tell me again how they will save me time?????///

Gary K.

[glenn bradley]

It only adjusts out (left). I wish they would have gone the extra mile with some rare earth mags on the end of the screw to allow you to adjust back in (right). Maybe a magnet isn't strong enough(?). I guess I only have a comment and not a solution. Maybe I should be quiet.

[Jim Becker]

Jeff, I've done these and they work great. While they are not "fancy", they still offer a lot of glue area and are strong.

[Alan DuBoff]

Jeff,

Finger joints are easily done on a table saw. They're good solid joints for drawers. Slot the bottom for the drawer bottom and bob's your uncle.

[Jeff Horton]

I have done some pocket screws and while there is nothing wrong with them. I like to see a joint of some kind when I open a drawer. Just personal preference, and that is why I choice this one.

Alan, I have a neat little box joint jig I made but didn't think about it. It would look good on furniture and it would be a fast joint too. But without a false front on this one I couldn't do that. Will keep that in mind though.