I (need) want a new circular saw

[Mack Cameron]

As the title implies, I want a new Circular Saw. Sometime ago I did some research with respect to blade left or blade right.

I think PC is the only manfctrer that offers a choice, right or left. My preference is blade left, I think.

Would someone kindly comment on your preference, "blade left" - "blade right", and your reasons why.

Does anyone else offer a choice?

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I think DW has a left blader as well as the Skil Mag 77 and the Bosch Hypoid.

I prefer left because the sight line to the blade is perfect for us right handers. [I was actually born left handed and can use either one, but my right hand runs the saw much straighter].

If you plan to ever use a guide rail system like the EZ or FT, you'll want a right blade saw, they don't make the shoes for left blade saws [and it still escapes me why they don't].

For me it's left blade all the way. I own a right blade saw as a backup for when I have to have one for a specific cut when framing decks, but it gathers much dust...:D:D:D

[Randy Cox]

Mack,

I am in the same boat. I am also looking. I read an article some time back and don't remember where about this very subject. I always thought that I would like to have one with the blade on the left side. My thought was that I could see the line better and see where the cut was going. I use a saw for mostly breaking down sheet goods so I am using a guide, so the following really won't matter but if you use it for other things, it might matter to you. The article stated that with a blade on the left side and being right handed, your saw would always be on the waste side and fall off. Just a thought. I am reconsidering my choices now.

Randy

[Mike Ruane]

Just went through the same thing recently, thinking I wasn't interested in the ez smart. Guess I was wrong... anyone interested in a nearly brand new pc 424mag (left blade?) :o.

I also thought it would be great to see the cut line, but no... turns out I rarely cut anything freehand, and when I do it's only a rough cut.

[Wes Bischel]

I just bought a PC - right blade because I want to get the EZ system in the near future.

Wes

[Charles Wilson]

I have a PC 325 Mag Right Blade that I bought.

I bought this for an EZ Rail System and I really like it. I was a big step up from a Craftsman that I had.

Chuck

[Rob Diz]

I purchased a right handed PC Mag about a year ago. I have used it much mroe than I thought I would. I just got the EZ system for a cabinet project, so I will be using it even more.

I'm right handed, and I feel safter with the blade running on my outside. I like the idea of the body of the CS being in between my left hand and the blade (good thing, cuz a lefty wouldn't work with EZ).

The one thing I didn't do, which I now regret, was to buy one with the electric brake. It's a safety thing.

[John Kain]

PC makes both right and left, and you really can't beat them in terms of price..... My advice is to check e-bay and look for a factory refurbished model with a full one-year warranty. It won't cost you much, and you'll be very happy.

[Robert Mickley]

I own a right handed PC, I can use either one equally well. I just bought this one since it was on sale for $99 at Hartville

[Burt Waddell]

Mack,

I have accumulated quiet a collection of circular saws mostly in the last year. They include PC, Bosch, Makita, Craftsman, Festool, Hilti, DeWalt, Skil, Milwaukee, etc. I've been trying to decide which works best with the EZ Smart.

Most of the Manufacturers do make both left and right blade saws. While I can agree that it easier for a right handed person to see the cut line with a left bladed saw, That blade is also a lot closer to you. For Safety purposes, if you are left handed use a left handed saw and if you are right handed use a right handed saw.

As for which saw is best, in my opinion there is no question - The Hilti 267E is by far the best saw. From the balance in the hand to the Warantee it is great. Earlier this week I was testing some saw blades and changed the blade about a half dozen times in an hour or so. Changing the blades was almost fun. Just flip the lever on the left side of the saw, lay the saw on the left side. That locks the blade and turns the power off to the motor. The only negative is a price tag of about $300.

Burt

[Per Swenson]

My preferences and why.

I am right handed. Saw blade on the right.

this allows your left hand too thumb the blade guard open with ease

for plunge cuts, rips and cuts in shallow stock witch hang up on the guard.

the key to sucessful circular saw operation is never watch the blade but to

use the guide in front of the saw. It is quite useful.

The only time I need/use a left handed saw is when I switch hats

and play framing monster. To see the blade for rafter birds mouths and

stair stringer cut outs.

I hope this helps.

Per

[Per Swenson]

A little more on using the guide on the front of a circular saw.

Unsolicited.

For me its like this, if I think to much about what I am doing, like

watching a sawblade, overcompensation and second guessing will cause

a non straight cut. The brain works in mysterious ways. Lets take some

sports analogys, Golf swing, you dont really look at the ball when you hit it.

Major league hitter swings on instinct. Bowlers? Yeah you get where I am going

with this. And shooting. You don't watch the bullet.

Per

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

[I was actually born left handed and can use either one, but my right hand runs the saw much straighter].

Oh man oh man you had it easy. almost Everyone is born right handed don't ya know?

It is the exceptional ones that over come it.

[Randal Stevenson]

Where as the original poster is in Canada, I have been to Canada's OSHA type site, and looked to find their circular saw requirements. They list a left blade saw for a left handed person, and a right blade for a right handed. Motor is supposed to add some protection, and the notch is supposed to be the freehand guide.
I use one of the guided systems, because of the router and other tool advantadges, if it weren't for that, I would be using a sawboard.
As for OSHA (USA), I did find two things of interest on thier site (but no reference/law number), they require the area to be clear around the cutting blade, and require dust collection between the operator and any blade facing him. So this would support the left/left and right/right configuration.
Mike, I wish I would have known about the PC424, I just bought mine last week!

[glenn bradley]

Depends how you plan to use it. I assume you're not going to be "walking the plate" sawing off rafters one handed (a worm saw works well here). The PC mag is a very nice saw (used one, don't own one) for woodshop use. As to left or right; I like the blade on the left as I can see better but you can get more dust in the face. If you use a guide for your cuts, like when you break down sheet goods for a project, I don't think it makes much difference right or left as you are watching the saw's shoe-to-guide contact as opposed to the "line". MHO.

[Mack Cameron]

.....right blade because I want to get the EZ system in the near future.

Wes

Thanks for all the replies, I am thinking "blade right" is the winner, but now I'm curious about the EZ Smart system, since many of you mentioned it.

What is it? How much? And any other comments you may have.

I really appreciate the time you Creekers have taken to help me in this regard. Of course, what more could I expect from a great bunch!

[Bruce Benjamin]

If you plan to ever use a guide rail system like the EZ or FT, you'll want a right blade saw, they don't make the shoes for left blade saws [and it still escapes me why they don't].

The only saw that you can use on the Festool is the Festool. The EZ Smart is the one that can use just about any saw. And EZ Smart does offer a left blade saw base. You just have to ask for it. Now that we got those facts straight...:)

Bruce

[Bruce Benjamin]

Thanks for all the replies, I am thinking "blade right" is the winner, but now I'm curious about the EZ Smart system, since many of you mentioned it.

What is it? How much? And any other comments you may have.

I really appreciate the time you Creekers have taken to help me in this regard. Of course, what more could I expect from a great bunch!

I have and use just about the entire line of EZ Smart tools and can highly recommend them. Talk about the EZ Smart too much on this forum and the Anti-EZ Smart police will jump all over you accusing you of all sorts of things. With that in mind I suggest you ask all of the questions you want about it over on the EZ Smart forum in the Sawmill Creek Manufacturers section. Huge amount of knowledge there and lots of people very willing to help you out. Even better is to just go to the EZ Smart website at http://www.eurekazone.com . It's not the best organized website I've ever come across but there's a ton of information there to help you out. That combined with the EZ forum and you'll be all set. I'll also be happy to do my best to answer any questions you have if you want to contact me via PM. As Burt said above, the best saw for the EZ Smart is the Hilti 267. I have one and love it. Several different features that set it apart from the rest and if you need those features the price is well worth it. Let me know if I can help.

Bruce

[Bobby Wartman]

I have a PC 645 Sawboss. Blade on left. I love this 6in saw. I can cut curved line's in plywood really nice.
It has less weight and is easy to control with you arm stretched across a long panel.

Whatever you pick the left hand blade is a plus for right handed people.

[Kevin Blunt]

Hey mack,

I just saw you on the other forum! LOL. Oddly enough, I have a blade left PC saw that is in absolutely mint condition. It might have cut 10 boards. Key words (might have). I don't use this saw since my father gave me a Skil wormdrive. I was thinking of selling it since I don't need it any more. I am willing to send pics if you are interested. I have everything that came with it, and it is about two years old. I don't know where you are at with your saw purchase but this saw is as close to new as you can find without buying it new. Just reply to me and If you are interested I will send a bunch of pictures. Let me know what you think.

Kevin in Keswick, (aka) the owner of your sharpening jig and stone. LOL. Works great I might add.

[Ben Grunow]

FWIW, I like the right blade because it is much easier to hold on to when the blade binds and the saw kicks back. The saw naturally rotates away from you instead of towards you and the open side of your hand is weaker.

This sounds paranoid but if you frame or remodel you will have a saw kick back and it gets your attention. Hold on tight and you are fine but the left blade saws just dont feel right to me.

[Bruce Benjamin]

FWIW, I like the right blade because it is much easier to hold on to when the blade binds and the saw kicks back. The saw naturally rotates away from you instead of towards you and the open side of your hand is weaker.

This sounds paranoid but if you frame or remodel you will have a saw kick back and it gets your attention. Hold on tight and you are fine but the left blade saws just dont feel right to me.

I've done a bit of framing and remodeling over the years and I can honestly say I've never had a circular saw kick back on me. For at least the last 11 years I've primarily used a Skil 77 worm drive. I don't know what it would take to get that sucker to kick back. It just plows right through anything. Now I use my Hilti 267 on my EZ Smart. Nothing will make any saw kick back when it's on the EZ guide rail. I guess I've heard of people talking about circular saw kick back but I just don't see how to do it. Maybe I'm not trying hard enough. ;) I realize there's supposed to be a safety issue with right/left blade saws but I really don't see it as being an especially big issue compared to using some power tools. Using it on a guide rail pretty much makes it as safe as any power tool can be.

Bruce

[Ben Grunow]

I use my CS (Makita right blade) knowing that I am stronger than it is no matter what I'm doing and I hold on with the "death grip" as my father taught me. This is for framing and renovation work where CS is used for overhead cuts on joists and rafters tha might pinch the blade-try to avoid these but not always possible. CS is also used to remove roofing. Set for full depth and cut through shingles (anything but slate), sheathing tar paper and everything. Ruins the blade and saw but is the fastest way to remove a roof. THen cut the rafters with the CS and remove.

There are many opportunities for wood to bind on the blade of the CS in these situations. Most can be avoided by using reciprocating saws and having help but on the job things dont always go that way. This is why I like a right blade.

Dont think it really matters in the shop. I think the original post was about shop use with a guide system anyway.

T